Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

Simply amazing

BTW I wonder when will we see a Type C variant…

Are you waiting for… Christmas? :-D

Yeah, I know I can buy converters. But I hate this hack. I guess I’m waiting for the year 2020…and in these lights it failed to arrive so far.

Fact is it is better to be flexible. So, if you stopped buying USB A to micro-B cables you are better buying converters. After all, the USB micro-B connector is smaller (takes up less space), cheaper and perfectly adequate for (at least) up to 12 - 18 W of power.

I also hear that cassette tapes are adequate for playing music. 6 volt positive chassis is an adequate electrical system for automobiles. The bow and arrow make an adequate weapon. Horse and buggy make for adequate transportation.

Just because something is adequate doesn’t mean progress should stop.

A couple of reasons why Micro USB will be around for a while. It’s less complicated than USB C. The connector is also simpler (fewer pinouts). Therefore it’s cheaper (how much more I don’t know) to make and integrate into devices. Ever wonder why cheaper devices still have it? It’s good for charging. Here’s why I don’t like it…the connectors are flimsy by design. The USB C connector is more robust. I’ve had perfectly good devices go in the bin because the USB micro connector failed or just wore out and couldn’t be repaired (can’t charge the device). USB C can access higher USB speeds/bandwidths than Micro. Will it get replaced eventually? You can guarantee it. Will they keep developing/improving it? Probably not, but it will be around for a while.

Respectfully… I feel like it’s still around largely because it’s what the manufacturers know and are accustomed to using.

As far as being more complex… sorta. There are more pins that can be connected, true. Like MicroUSB, though, you only need to connect two pins (power and ground) in order to charge a device… so long as you’re using an A-to-C cable and not a C-to-C cable. In that sense, the jacks are practically a drop-in replacement.

But in order to handle C-to-C cables, you do need two extremely cheap resistors (like $0.0001 or less in bulk) in the device attached to a couple of the pins so that it gets properly identified as the receiving end. Is it an extra measure that needs to be taken? Sure. Is it really that much more expensive or complicated? Naw.

Now if you want to open up the can of worms that is QC2 vs QC3 vs PD, etc… ugh. But there’s no reason to in a flashlight as long as you don’t need a high charge current/voltage.

:laughing: :partying_face: :smiley: :+1:

Now don’t go raggin’ on Horse and Buggy man. :slight_smile:
When the Electromagnetic KaaPows drop, the Horses will still operate.

Matter of fact the Amish have been preppers since before that term was even mainstream.
Organic food?, yep, Solar? Been there done that. Generators? Oh hell yeah, big diesel jobs.
They dig LED’s though, now their buggy batteries last for months without recharge instead of once/twice a week.
Some of the newer buggies can use Dewalt tool batts to run the lights, usually 2 of them in parallel.
They are much more tech savvy then most people realize and also understand all types of medical procedures and the equivalent natural options available.

One of my neighbors traveled to Germany for a back operation that the doctors here would not do because of liability and even after the airfare and lodging it still cost less and worked like magic.

Sorry for the off topic.
Carry on!

Cassette tape player motors consume far more energy than an MP3 player. Just sayin’. :wink:

By the way, out of my above posted adapters in #234 the ones from links 2 & 3 do not work for data transmission, tried them to connect an EBD-M05 battery tester to PC via type-C cable and failure. So beware.

Positive chassis? Lets skip that part. Even with negative chassis, 6v became inadequate due to the increased number of electrical items in cars. At 6v the wire had to be big which weighs more and costs more. With 24v you can use much smaller wire for the same power. So 6v was adequate up until the 50’s or so but soon became inadequate. We really did need to switch over to 12v.

Bigger military vehicles starting in the 50’s and 60’s have used 24v systems. A lot of aircraft also run on 24v. There was talk of regular automobiles transitioning to 24v to again reduce weight and cost since they are becoming so computer intensive.

I guess my point is things that were adequate at first sometimes become inadequate over time. That’s when you need to change.

If a thing is still adequate, then there’s no real rush to update it.

Transition periods are rough and tend to be put off for as long as possible.

I think in the case of the D10, the assembly line is already cranking them out with micro usb. Maybe the next generation of this light with all its other updates and changes they will have to decide whether to stick to micro or go C. I’m sure they will do whatever will sell more lights.

Some of you probably need to esteem yourselves a bit better and tame your egos in the process, there's already more than enough preceding off-topic messages here serving nothing really good with all that old standards discussion. A quality USB A to micro-B cable is a lot cheaper than the effort you are investing here to adamantly prove your point for really nothing good. I need no-one to tell me I'm right but if you do, then you're right.

Party pooper…

I asked a few sellers about the holders in their lights.

One seller has provided me a photo meant to convince me that they have lights with old holders:

Looks good, doesn’t it?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32875926394.html

The owner of
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32969273949.html
has replied as well:

I think I’ll buy one or the other. At least if I get junk holder the discussion will give me a reason to file a dispute.

I tried a low-odour turpentine. The head was soaked in it for like 4 days and I still couldn’t take the bezel off.

I tried the same with Trustfire MINI3. It indeed damaged the o-ring but did nothing to the glue. :frowning:

Use heat. Try the hottest water you can get. Or, use a heat gun. A strap wrench and a vise will be invaluable tools.

My first D10 has arrived and it has the good holder. :partying_face:
And the bezel is not glued. :partying_face:
I can recommend this seller but do ask them whether they still have the same. :slight_smile:

Now…I need some smaller TIR lenses, none of mine fits. :frowning:
ADDED: has anyone tried sanding a 20 mm TIR lens?