Looks like that Bitlighter is another example of overpriced photo equipment. While it’s performance probably is worth it to a busy pro photographer, there sure is a healthy margin on the product…
Anyway, it seems they use a Nichia 144 emitter and a frosted (backside) aspheric lense with a short hood/snoot. This is a good and simple approach, so following their lead wouldn’t be a bad idea. The large LES (light emitting surface) of the 144 should help achieve smoother beam profiles.
I’d be curious how a large SunLike COB emitter would do with a frosted or dc-fix modded aspheric lense. I’m not sure if a larger or smaller diameter optic would be better, nor what focal length is better. My gut would steer me towards larger diameter and shorter FL - but really i don’t know. UF-1504 host maybe with a XHP35 driver and a GT-FC40 5000K 95CRI emitter? Should be good for ~1500lm @ 1.25A.
Thanks, Jared. That’s impressive reverse-engineering. The curve on all the lenses I’ve seen suggests seriously short FL, but I don’t have a point of references for flashlights of what’s considered long or short. Would the FL be the distance of the lens to the emitter at full zoom? If so, large diameter and short FL would capture the most light, but I’m not sure of the effect of the dome or not on the emitters. I’m Googling the rest of your terms to try to keep up!
I do a some photography with flashlights myself, but it’s a totally different type of photography. I have some photos in the link in my signature below, and a few in here too: Exploration photos with my flashlights
For me what is important is the width of the beam in full flood mode. Almost all of the zoomies I’ve found are too narrow for my purposes. I’ve only found one that is wide enough without requiring modifications to the body: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1601/10002775/1206500 This body can be found all over the place with different names.
However, I replace the driver with one of my own and also install different LEDs so I still modify them. This light gives a nice uniformed beam, but bare in mind that I’m not too concerned about the edge of the beam. This one does have a little shift on the edges.
The Wuben TO50R is not the “ideal” light you are searching as it doesn’t have zoo, but it has 5000K 90CRI leds, it has 2800 lumens on max, floody beam with no artifacts, uses protected batteries, has different levels for brightness adjustment.
Not sure if it suits your needs, but maybe you can take a look
Hi Mike, nice pictures! How do you get the light so even along the length of the long tunnels? I love the shots with the ambient light streaming in mixed with flashlight, and the deep multi-exposure (3/27/17) is delicious! I wouldn’t be able to resist gelling the lights slightly blue and yellow from different directions, and it would probably end up looking like a disco.
Almost all of those photos are long exposure shots, so I’m either running around “painting” with the flashlight, or painting from a stationary position. For longer tunnels (that I’m not running around in) I start with widest zoom and then gradually zoom in. It usually takes a few shots before I get the “choreography” right.
I’ve seen many photos similar to mine but with multiple colors. I think it’s very hard to get it right, most of them like you say end up looking like discos, and personally I don’t think that suites those kind of environments.
Thanks, but that one isn’t a multi-exposure shot, it’s a single exposure with a lot of running around While switching locations I only use a dim headlamp and never point it in the direction of the camera.
I normally use Klarus P20 on low setting to provide some extra light on the subject indoors during longer exposures. Nichia 219C and a smooth beam pattern.
Maybe a noctigon meteor M43 with SST20 3000k high CRI. Then you can buy the carclo triple optics to control the beam from spot to super diffused floody. It can easily sustain 1000 lumens and uses a constant current driver with no pwm.
From all the discussions, it’s looking like a strong contender with the back of its lens slightly frosted. Do you know if it’s easy to change its existing operating system to make the interface easier, and if there’s a slightly higher CRI emitter option?
True! Using feet and using zoom give different lighting effects, though, and that’s what I want the zoom for - it’s not just the size of the beam. Getting close with feet increases the falloff of the light, so close things get massively brighter while distant things barely brighten at all. Hanging back and doing it with zoom makes the closer and distant things both increase in brightness. The camera amplifies this effect compared to what our eyes see, letting me choose from a huge range of looks just by changing the zoom and distance of the light. It lets me get expressive and change the relative brightness of things with one light. I can’t do that with a fixed beam.
Also, because light in nature nearly always comes from above, we’re often using poorly-placed balconies etc, so I can’t always choose my distance. I need an assistant with wings.
Thanks, everyone - you’ve all been super-helpful with fabulous suggestions. Here’s the summary (assuming a zoomie), and a final question: which is easiest to get modded to perfection, or to mod for a person who has never wielded a soldering iron… ever:
Jaxman Z1 or UF-1504 each with a slightly frosted rear to their aspheric lens for smoothness and removing the coloured fringe. Maybe DC-fix to frost, maybe 1000-grit sandpaper and LOTS of care. Huge thanks to djozz and JaredM for confirming this, djozz even sacrificing gear to confirm it!
UF-1504 would need a substantial mod, and the suggestion is XHP35 driver and a GT-FC40 5000K 95CRI emitter.
Jaxman Z1 has 90 CRI, 5000K emitter available as off-the-shelf option - very close to target. Is there any easy upgrade to improve?
Looks like I’ll have to sacrifice the easy rotary UI for brightness. Can either the Jax Z1 or UF-1504 use Anduril or Ramping OS? I don’t see either on the list of build targets from Toykeeper Index of /torches/fsm but I’m not sure if I’m reading it right (or reading the right thing!).
Huge thanks to Goshdogit, MaxMx, djozz (thanks for sacrificing lenses!), JaredM, MikeC (love the pictures), MacaratumB, samyy, Pete7874, Pavlo, and Mr.Scott for making me feel welcome and all the great input.
It seems like a zoomie would be great for you, and the Jaxman Z1 is well respected.
I’m not sure if the Z1’s driver could be reprogrammed with Crescendo, but swapping a replacement driver running Crescendo would only require basic tools and a few soldered connections.
I’m not up to date with all the different firmware options and drivers these days, so others can chime in on that front.
I think the simplest option could be the Jaxman Z1, DC-Fixed lens, and Samsung LH351D in 5000K or 5700K. I’m sure with some patience and an hour or so of practice, you surely could handle an emitter swap. It’s just two wires and many folks here would be glad to help you along the way.
With minus green filters, Maukka has demonstrated impressive color rendering and tint from these Samsung emitters (5000k and 4000k). Djozz has tested the 5700K I believe, as he mentioned the results in the “what did you mod today” thread. Maybe he could post some screenshots of that here? Unlike most other emitters that decrease Duv (get less green/more pink) with increasing current, these actually get slightly more green the harder you run them, and most of their shift runs parallel to the BBL, increasing in CCT with drive current. This could actually be advantageous to you, comparatively.
I actually have a Z1 in like new condition that’s on my for sale or trade list. I could swap in an emitter for you if I had time to acquire one. I’d love to see how it works for you and iterate on some designs. Right now it’s got the stock 70CRI XPLHI.
PS: If there’s a need for 100+ degree flood beams, a second, compact light would be your best bet instead of trying to do it all with one light. Just use the same emitter in a wide angle triple/quad host like an FW3A or any other one on the growing list lights in this format. The few that grab my attention besides the FW3a are Emisar D4, Wuben T050R, and Jaxman E2L. The D4 might be my top suggestion of them all, balancing price, performance, and modularity. If you want a real powerhouse flood light, the Emisar D18 with the wide optic option would be really sweet (but ~$100). The good news is that you can EDC this second light, so it’s not just one-dimensional! Could be a good excuse to treat yourself to a nice torch
While switching locations I only use a dim headlamp and never point it in the direction of the camera.
