FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

It’s very easy. Just make sure you don’t loose the little black nub. There are videos showing how it goes together.

Yeah, just keep it facing up when you take it apart so nothing falls out. A white cloth underneath helps, and a tweezers for the nubbin.

I haven’t had mine very long so hopefully I got one with the retaining ring. Aren’t all models now supposed to have them?

It is a production change, but they don’t just throw away old inventory. So there might be a chance someone gets an older version.

So I just got an 18350 tube from Illumn for my first production run FW3A, and can’t get the light to work with the short tube, I’ve taken it completely apart and cleaned everything before reassembling to no avail.

Wondering if anyone else has seen this and maybe an easy fix like lapping the inner tube a bit shorter or adding a small spacer in the threads to fix length issues?

Is there a battery length issue?

Not that I can tell at least, I only have unprotected 18350 (the black keeppower high drain ones), the light does the ‘I’m connected’ quick flash when the head is screwed on about half way, but once tightened there is no response from the switch.

Make sure to loosen the head, then tighten the tail firmly, then tighten the head.

If still no switch contact, the battery might be a bit too long. Does it have a button top? Does it look like the button is being smashed in?

I don’t know what battery length they recommend, but you might try measuring your cell to see if it’s too long. I’m guessing someone knows the recommended 18350 length. You might try a 16340 cell if you have one.

Maybe others have tried that cell and can comment if it works or not.

I had the same issue with my 18650 battery. Contrary to what for most helps, I had to loosen the inner tail retaining ring (which holds down the switch) around one turn (360°). Now the light works fine and very stable.

I was wondering if anyone knows if this is normal.
If I leave my FW3T off for a period of time (overnight) it becomes non responsive. I have to remove and replace the head and it works fine for the rest of the day.
Not a big deal but kind of weird.

Thanks.

Loosen or remove?

“Loosen” might mean the contacts are a bit dirty or just barely touching. Cleaning all threads (remove lube on threads maybe?) and the ends of the inner tube might help. Tightening the head a bit more may also help.

“Remove” means the power needs to be reset.

It is not normal.

I’m not too familiar with the cause of that. Maybe a MCU issue? IDK.

This is the titanium version, right? I’m assuming titanium has good electrical conductivity and doesn’t easily oxidize. I don’t know much about that version.

By removing the head it resets the flashlight, I have cleaned the threads and tighten the tail cap then the head. Everything works fine. It’s almost like it’s in momentary mode and to get out you have to reset the light to get it back to normal, but in my case there is no visible light at all until I reset it.
It’s the titanium version

It’s a strange issue. Maybe someone here can explain it.

unfortunately mine is the first version of the FW3A that has no retaining ring in the tail, perhaps this is the cause of the issue that I am having.

Yeah, I also have the first version of the FW3A.
And I’m still getting intermittent problems like failure to turn on.
Remedied by removing the head from the body and replacing it, several times, eventually it lights up.
I’m afraid it’s like a firearm, has to be taken apart and cleaned after every use.

Well, it seems like peoples experiences vary widely. We have two FW3A’s. One from the first batch I guess, as I ordered the same day it became available. Also one from a later batch; that one has the modified two level momentary when locked. Both have been completely acceptable. I’ve never had either not want to turn on, or be uncooperative in any manner. Both are carried as an EDC, by two different people. They are used a lot, e-locked a lot, carried in a pocket not on the clip.

I have six FWxx lights. I’ve only had an issue with one of them and it was as you described. If the head was loosened or removed and then replaced it would turn on. After a couple failures to turn on, I took off the head and checked the contact ring on the driver side and noticed some excess grease had worked its way in there. Wiped it off with some IPA and it’s been fine ever since.

I took out a white O-ring that was in between the tail cap and pocket clip and I have not experienced anymore problems with the light.

No, the retaining ring was added just to prevent people from accidentally losing the little nub.

Have you tried a continuity test with the head removed just to see if the switch is working with the new 18350 body and inner tube?

It is easy to start thinking all the lights are troublesome when you hear people say they have a problem on the troubleshooting thread. Just remember there are many hundred, maybe thousand?, FW3A lights sold, but only a few dozen have issues. It’s basically the same for all flashlights, cars, TV’s, etc… The percentage of defects or problems can be higher for some models compared to other models.

I’ve only have one early light and it acted funny at first until I figured out I have to loosen the head, then tighten the tail, then tighten the head. I’ve had zero issues since then.

I think this light might have a slightly higher percentage of issues compared to others simply due to the design with it’s tight tolerances.

So don’t let this thread trick you into thinking everyone is having problems. I try to think positive. :smiley: