Is there a battery length issue?
Not that I can tell at least, I only have unprotected 18350 (the black keeppower high drain ones), the light does the ‘I’m connected’ quick flash when the head is screwed on about half way, but once tightened there is no response from the switch.
Make sure to loosen the head, then tighten the tail firmly, then tighten the head.
If still no switch contact, the battery might be a bit too long. Does it have a button top? Does it look like the button is being smashed in?
I don’t know what battery length they recommend, but you might try measuring your cell to see if it’s too long. I’m guessing someone knows the recommended 18350 length. You might try a 16340 cell if you have one.
Maybe others have tried that cell and can comment if it works or not.
I had the same issue with my 18650 battery. Contrary to what for most helps, I had to loosen the inner tail retaining ring (which holds down the switch) around one turn (360°). Now the light works fine and very stable.
I was wondering if anyone knows if this is normal.
If I leave my FW3T off for a period of time (overnight) it becomes non responsive. I have to remove and replace the head and it works fine for the rest of the day.
Not a big deal but kind of weird.
Thanks.
Loosen or remove?
“Loosen” might mean the contacts are a bit dirty or just barely touching. Cleaning all threads (remove lube on threads maybe?) and the ends of the inner tube might help. Tightening the head a bit more may also help.
“Remove” means the power needs to be reset.
It is not normal.
I’m not too familiar with the cause of that. Maybe a MCU issue? IDK.
This is the titanium version, right? I’m assuming titanium has good electrical conductivity and doesn’t easily oxidize. I don’t know much about that version.
By removing the head it resets the flashlight, I have cleaned the threads and tighten the tail cap then the head. Everything works fine. It’s almost like it’s in momentary mode and to get out you have to reset the light to get it back to normal, but in my case there is no visible light at all until I reset it.
It’s the titanium version
It’s a strange issue. Maybe someone here can explain it.
unfortunately mine is the first version of the FW3A that has no retaining ring in the tail, perhaps this is the cause of the issue that I am having.
Yeah, I also have the first version of the FW3A.
And I’m still getting intermittent problems like failure to turn on.
Remedied by removing the head from the body and replacing it, several times, eventually it lights up.
I’m afraid it’s like a firearm, has to be taken apart and cleaned after every use.
Well, it seems like peoples experiences vary widely. We have two FW3A’s. One from the first batch I guess, as I ordered the same day it became available. Also one from a later batch; that one has the modified two level momentary when locked. Both have been completely acceptable. I’ve never had either not want to turn on, or be uncooperative in any manner. Both are carried as an EDC, by two different people. They are used a lot, e-locked a lot, carried in a pocket not on the clip.
I have six FWxx lights. I’ve only had an issue with one of them and it was as you described. If the head was loosened or removed and then replaced it would turn on. After a couple failures to turn on, I took off the head and checked the contact ring on the driver side and noticed some excess grease had worked its way in there. Wiped it off with some IPA and it’s been fine ever since.
I took out a white O-ring that was in between the tail cap and pocket clip and I have not experienced anymore problems with the light.
No, the retaining ring was added just to prevent people from accidentally losing the little nub.
Have you tried a continuity test with the head removed just to see if the switch is working with the new 18350 body and inner tube?
It is easy to start thinking all the lights are troublesome when you hear people say they have a problem on the troubleshooting thread. Just remember there are many hundred, maybe thousand?, FW3A lights sold, but only a few dozen have issues. It’s basically the same for all flashlights, cars, TV’s, etc… The percentage of defects or problems can be higher for some models compared to other models.
I’ve only have one early light and it acted funny at first until I figured out I have to loosen the head, then tighten the tail, then tighten the head. I’ve had zero issues since then.
I think this light might have a slightly higher percentage of issues compared to others simply due to the design with it’s tight tolerances.
So don’t let this thread trick you into thinking everyone is having problems. I try to think positive. 
Ah, so your light is working now? :+1:
This o-ring is only to prevent the clip from rotating. I wonder if it was preventing you from fully tightening the tail to the body and squeezing the inner tube contacts to the switch?
Maybe others should try this. It’s easy to do.
I just got mine in the mail this morning. I bought it for a few reasons:
1. I reviewed the "Vote for the Best Light of 2019" topic thread, and saw it scored super high.
2. Most compact, high power, single 18650 light.
3. I like this friendly and helpful forum community, so I thought I should add another nice budget light to my collection, so I can feel more fit in with this forum community. (I have Emisar, Imalent, Manker, Nightwatch and Noctigon lights that I like and love and am excited about very, very much)
4. This light is recommended by leading luminaries of the Flashlight World.
5. Cost is almost free.
6. Zero body prints.
7. No frills, simple yet elegant, attractive design.
8. No pesky magnet in the tailcap.
Mine arrived in, has been in, and is stuck in "box of chocolates" mode. There is no way of knowing in advance what is going to happen and/or not happen if I click once while off, click once while on, click and hold when off, click and hold while on, double click while on, or double click while off.
Because I am late to the FW3A party, I had plenty of time to review the troubleshooting tips and tricks.
I did not loosen and re tighten the tailcap, because it is beyond hand-tight out of the box.
I tried reset by removing the head and holding the button while re-connecting the head. Click four times while on yields nothing. Click three times while off yields nothing.
At the moment: Click once from off to turn on = Nothing.
Double click from off = Sometimes turbo, sometimes medium power.
Double click from on = Turbo.
Press and hold from off = medium power, no ramping. I can not access any ramping nor any stepping function at all whatsoever.
Press and hold from on = Turn off. I can not access any ramping nor any stepping function at all whatsoever.
I have been senior global moderator for more than a few years of the official forum of the worlds consistently highest independently rated premium anti virus company, so I know, as was mentioned a few or so posts above, that troubleshooting topic thread means only a very small percentage of users see any issues.
I am all good/very happy with points 3, 5, 6, 7 and 8 above, so I am happy to add this light to my collection.
What battery are you using? Flat top?
You really do need to loosen head and tail. Tighten tail, then head.
Check that all retaining rings are tight.
Thank you for your reply.
I tried unprotected flat top purple Efest and LG 3500.
I will try that, after I think for a bit about the proper tools and protective media. Two vice grips and leather strap come to mind.
I don't have the tool for the driver retaining ring.
If you shake the battery tube/tailcap assembly while separated from the head, are there any rattles?