What did you mod today?

9511 posts / 0 new
Last post
djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17209
Location: Amsterdam

Nicely hacked together Big Smile . I love the complete absence of a thermal pad connection. Beer

forsh
forsh's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/15/2020 - 05:31
Posts: 548
Location: finland
DB Custom wrote:
Got a picture of the driver? May be pretty easy to bump power, may need a driver swap…

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I86IrB8QuFW7n0vQ-VcZM8jnaU4lQJyC/view?u...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/163189738353433/?ref=share
Join my Facebook FW3/4/1 selling and buying group guys

milk
milk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 5 days ago
Joined: 01/23/2020 - 21:20
Posts: 36
Location: TX
djozz wrote:
Nicely hacked together Big Smile . I love the complete absence of a thermal pad connection. Beer

Lol yeah…thought about trying to hack in a heat sink but whatever. Had a 219C that I don’t really like so figured I’d just throw it in for fun. It runs pretty low, to be determined whether or not it blows up!

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 47 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20638
Location: Heart of Texas

forsh, since they have all the sense resistor pads bridged with zero level resistors the only way I can see to improve output is through a better MOSFET. That may be difficult to find in the package they used, but there are some or have been.

We used to use one that I still have a few of, back when Comfychair started hacking 105C drivers into FET controlled direct drive. The numbers are in my mind but jumbled, something about N and 0 and 7… lol (memory, totally sucks) I’ll see if I can find em and let you know what to look for.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17209
Location: Amsterdam

JaredM
JaredM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 1140
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
djozz wrote:

Ah yes! I have a few of these laying around as well! Are these still relevant?

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 47 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20638
Location: Heart of Texas

Bingo! Thanks Jos! Smile

The ones we used back then were Vishay branded, hard to find even then.

Relevant for a driver that uses this package size and needs a better MOSFET… like the one forsh is working on. Wink

JaredM
JaredM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 1140
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

I remember they were getting scarce at one point, and MTN only had a few left in stock so I ordered a couple. Never used them because right at the same time I kind of got out of modding for a good while. Bought a ZL SC63w at the time and that kept me satisfied for quite a while..

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 577

I modified a D25LC2 Mini clip for use on my S21A and C8+:

  

 

 

The D25 was my EDC for a long time but the screw holes failed.  An M2 x 6mm screw and nut fits perfectly for these clips and lights. I think the clip just made the S21A my new EDC!

In fact, I would like to know where I can buy more of this or similar clip model (?). Only if the Convoy clip was as good as this one.

 

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 5592
Location: Portugal

I guess that the AliExpress store of EAGTAC has them, but you need to confirm!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

sandro
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 23 min ago
Joined: 11/04/2014 - 16:04
Posts: 92
Location: Germany
Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 577

MascaratumB wrote:
I guess that the AliExpress store of EAGTAC has them, but you need to confirm!

Wow, I never knew they had an AE store! 

 

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

Nachtfeuerzeug
Nachtfeuerzeug's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 08/31/2013 - 16:10
Posts: 577

sandro wrote:
Look there: [/quote]

 

 

 

Thank you Sandro!

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 5592
Location: Portugal

Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

MascaratumB wrote:
I guess that the AliExpress store of EAGTAC has them, but you need to confirm!

Wow, I never knew they had an AE store! 


 


I guess it is relatively recent there, maybe from last year, but it has lights, clips, batteries and accessories ! And your search gave me some ideas as well concerning the clips Big Smile

BTW, some time ago I did something alike to get a less pretty result, compared to yours Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 / PT18pro / PT28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior / OW Mini // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro / 311 / Z821 / i5 // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 / A23 / E200u // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 / E12R / E61 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review’s Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

Rayoui
Rayoui's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/06/2019 - 00:38
Posts: 288
Location: Portland, OR

I recently picked up an Olight S1R Baton II to use at work because I like the tiny form factor and the magnetic charger is great for quick top-offs when I swing by the desk. I work in a semiconductor fab and the overhead lights have UV filters on them to protect the wafers during the photolithography process. This makes the ambient light look very yellow. The S1RII’s cool white low CRI emitter looks positively horrid in these lighting conditions, so I decided to swap it.

I swapped in a 3000K 90+ CRI XM-L2 (XMLBWT-00-0000-000UT20E7) and was very pleased and surprised to see that this is one of the most beautifully tinted emitters I’ve seen. I measured it with a color meter and the tint measures almost exactly the same as a sw45k. I wasn’t expecting that but it looks absolutely lovely. I want to order a few more but I’m afraid they’ll end up being from a different tint bin.

White balance @ 4000K

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 59 sec ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 4116
Location: US

That XM-L2 looks excellent and it is the brightest 90CRI bin for the XM-L2 Thumbs Up Thanks for the heads up!

JaredM
JaredM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 1140
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Rayoui, where did you get that emitter and when? Mouser? Interested as I have a few lights with picky reflectors that only seen to like doomed XML2s.. never found a non-80/85cri tint I liked in this emitter.. found the answer in another thread.

And I did some stuff as well. Modded my FW3A with an S21A reflector that I machined down to clearance the head. I’ve been trying to source one of these reflectors for so long and finally broke down and bought a host from MTN. Turns out I really like the s21a as well, but it’s going to turn into a long runtime LH351d triple/quad soon enough.

Convoy s21a reflector in fw3a https://imgur.com/gallery/RtheBE7

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17209
Location: Amsterdam

Convoy makes reflectors that make excellent beams, good idea!

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 59 sec ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 4116
Location: US

Rayoui wrote:
I recently picked up an Olight S1R Baton II to use at work because I like the tiny form factor and the magnetic charger is great for quick top-offs when I swing by the desk. I work in a semiconductor fab and the overhead lights have UV filters on them to protect the wafers during the photolithography process. This makes the ambient light look very yellow. The S1RII’s cool white low CRI emitter looks positively horrid in these lighting conditions, so I decided to swap it.

I swapped in a 3000K 90+ CRI XM-L2 (XMLBWT-00-0000-000UT20E7) and was very pleased and surprised to see that this is one of the most beautifully tinted emitters I’ve seen. I measured it with a color meter and the tint measures almost exactly the same as a sw45k. I wasn’t expecting that but it looks absolutely lovely. I want to order a few more but I’m afraid they’ll end up being from a different tint bin.

White balance @ 4000K
!{width:45%}https://i.imgur.com/EOrHjLv.jpg!

I just realized the FW3A doesn’t have a SST-20 3000K option. Did you do an emitter swap on that one? If so, was that from Kaidomain?

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 23 hours ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 1468
Location: Ohio, United States

Mike C wrote:
Hurray! I’ve finally built a firmware testing light where I can flash firmware for my drivers with a USB cable. I needed a small light to carry, USB port, usable on a bike, dual switch and lighted E-switch. The S42 fits all that except dual switch but fortunately the S41 tailswitch works fine. I’ve had a previous attempt at making a driver for this light but screwed up the USB port part of the driver. Now I got it (almost) right. Had to file down some internals in the host to fit the wires without squishing them.

Custom driver with holes for the original driver “poles”:

Driver assembled with a custom slave board with micro USB connector and charger chip (MCP73831). Really finicky to put together because the wires I used where too fat:

The flashing kit. The photo was taken while I flashed a light by USB cable for the first time ever Smile

So here it is, my dual switch EDC firmware tester. The first light I’ve built in ages. I burned up the red LED on the switch but that doesn’t matter because I made a mistake in the driver design and only have one channel for a switch LED. At least the green one is working Smile

The only thing I don’t like about this light is the beam profile. I’m in no way a beam snob but this thing is horrendous! Sick I know carclo quad optics don’t fit, is there any other option that does?


Mike, you just made a new requirement for the next BLF light Silly
USB-flashing!

djozz wrote:

Made a D80V2-SBT-90.2 today.

I had a 5700K Luminus SBT-90.2 from Neal that I did an output test on and it needed a host. Of course a big head thrower is the obvious way to go but I have a FT03 with this same led coming in the mail (some day it arrives) so that is already taken care of. So I went with the best 18650 host on the market (thanks to TheOnlyDocc Thumbs Up who worked together with LuckySun, Lexel and BLF to make this finetuned version), the Wildtrail D80-V2. DBCustom beat me putting this led in a small host (he used a X6), but I think it is more than worth the trouble.

The challenge was to fit the led in the reflector that was never made for this fat led, and get it focused. I hoped that when the reflector hole was reamed so that it fitted flush around the black frame on the led that holds the glass window, so sitting on the led base, that the focus was ok too. And luckily that was quite right. With that hole size a thin edge of the reflector base remained and that was all that was needed to make it work. I slightly sanded that edge and then put a layer of Kapton tape on the edge, and also a layer of Kapton tape around the black frame on the led. This was needed because there are a couple of conducting dots in the corners on the led.

After this, this mod only needed two spring bypasses (18AWG at the tail, 20AWG at the driver) and the light was good to go. The stock 20mm Lexel driver is a fine FET+5+1 type, and the stock switch is a nice fat Omten one.


It took me 2 hours to do this mod (but the led was already reflowed). I’m not good with dust as you can see in the pics, dust does not affect performance but I should do a better job cleaning the reflector from the metal shavings that were formed when reaming the hole.


The performance is just great. With a fresh VTC6 and a clamp meter on the tail I measured 19 A. The output at startup is 4300 lumen (corrected to maukka calibration), at 30 seconds the output is 3950 lumen (just 8% drop) and the throw 118 kcd. After 2 minutes the head becomes really hot and a stepdown is desired.
It is refreshing to have a compact light with so much output that is not a flooder but a potent thrower Smile . Only the SBT-90.2 could make this possible

Mmm, that is tempting. My Z1 already satisfies the “compact thrower” thing, but it has less than 25% of the output of this monster…

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Rayoui
Rayoui's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/06/2019 - 00:38
Posts: 288
Location: Portland, OR

SKV89 wrote:
Rayoui wrote:
I recently picked up an Olight S1R Baton II to use at work because I like the tiny form factor and the magnetic charger is great for quick top-offs when I swing by the desk. I work in a semiconductor fab and the overhead lights have UV filters on them to protect the wafers during the photolithography process. This makes the ambient light look very yellow. The S1RII’s cool white low CRI emitter looks positively horrid in these lighting conditions, so I decided to swap it.

I swapped in a 3000K 90+ CRI XM-L2 (XMLBWT-00-0000-000UT20E7) and was very pleased and surprised to see that this is one of the most beautifully tinted emitters I’ve seen. I measured it with a color meter and the tint measures almost exactly the same as a sw45k. I wasn’t expecting that but it looks absolutely lovely. I want to order a few more but I’m afraid they’ll end up being from a different tint bin.

I just realized the FW3A doesn’t have a SST-20 3000K option. Did you do an emitter swap on that one? If so, was that from Kaidomain?

It’s a pre-soldered Noctigon star from Intl-outdoor. HB4 I believe.

SKV89
Offline
Last seen: 23 min 59 sec ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 12:46
Posts: 4116
Location: US

HB4 is above the BBL. No wonder why it’s so green. KD used to sell a HD2 bin that was somewhat rosy. I was assuming it was the HD2 bin because it’s more popular so I was surprised how the XM-L2 appeared that much rosier.

Rayoui
Rayoui's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 08/06/2019 - 00:38
Posts: 288
Location: Portland, OR

Even without comparing it next to another light, this particular XM is one of the pinkest LEDs I’ve seen. It measures about the same tint as my sw45k lights. I can take a comparison photo with some slightly rosy XP-L HI in 3000K when I get home from work.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17209
Location: Amsterdam

What failed to mod today.

I had a nice project in mind today, hotrodding a ToolAA 2.0 with a 15mm BLF-A6 driver and LH351D. But instead I spent an hour getting the pill screwed out, with brute force, and heatinh the head up with a blowtorch. While applying more and more force and heat, I first broke out the stock driver, then damaged the led shelf, then after a particularly intense heating session, the reflector coating started peeling. The pill never moved.

So that was one ToolAA down, a very rare occasion that I was not able to get a glued part loose. (this used to be a smooth reflector)

Henk4U2
Henk4U2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 02/13/2014 - 17:52
Posts: 3642
Location: The heart of the Netherlands (GMT+1)

Maybe a silly question, but did you try anti-clockwise?

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

gchart
gchart's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 22 min ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 2514
Location: Central IL

I hope so… Tool AAs are counter-clockwise and I don’t think I’ve run into any glue on them.

I did the same thing a few months back, learned my lesson (on a Tool AA) the hard way Sad

andychrist
andychrist's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 19 hours ago
Joined: 01/24/2016 - 11:17
Posts: 90
Location: Hudson Valley

Using Aluminized Copper Reflectors as Secondary Heatsinks

Was wondering why aluminized copper reflectors are always thermally isolated from the emitter star, when their composition and construction might so conveniently lend them to use as secondary heatsinks. Yeah the base gasket does help keep the reflector centered correctly around the emitter and isolates it electrically, but the lamp barrel holds it in place anyway and on a large star with + and – solder points nearer to the star’s edges risk of contact with the reflector is basically nonexistent. Thinking if the gasket is replaced with a well trimmed thermal pad and the reflector rim is similarly treated with paste, then heat from the emitter could travel unimpeded through the reflector all the way to end of the lamp barrel and into the bezel.

Anyway as proof-of concept unscrewed the bezel on a Sofrin SP33 V3.0 and removed the reflector and base gasket from the lamp body. Next (because my .5mm thermal pads have not yet arrived) applied some no-name thermal grease to both the base and rim of the reflector, lowered the lamp body back down around it, then flipped everything back up. Before rescrewing the bezel with its O-rings and cover glass, fired up the Sofirn on Turbo to see if I could feel any heat in the reflector this way. And boy did it get hot! So screwed everything back in place and let the flashlight cool down against the window while readying my second SP33 for comparison. Turned both units on in Turbo simultaneously while clasping them in two hands. Thermally modified Sofirn got so hot around the bezel I couldn’t hold it long. Unmodified unit got hot too but not as painfully so. Thus I declare the experiment a success.

Now, none of the reflectorized flashlights or bike lights in my possession have any problem whatsoever with thermal regulation/step down, so this mod is not all that useful to me. Then again my Kaidomain BL70S XHP70.2 4000K bike light doesn’t get hot at all on its highest setting of 3000lm — but maybe it should? So once I get the .5mm thermal pads will see if they make any difference with thermal transfer in that lamp. JKK36R has similar build so might be useful there too (though I’ve never used turbo on that flashlight for more than a couple of minutes, out in the cold.)

Agro
Agro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 6247
Location: Ślōnsk

andychrist wrote:
Using Aluminized Copper Reflectors as Secondary Heatsinks

Was wondering why aluminized copper reflectors are always thermally isolated from the emitter star, when their composition and construction might so conveniently lend them to use as secondary heatsinks. Yeah the base gasket does help keep the reflector centered correctly around the emitter and isolates it electrically, but the lamp barrel holds it in place anyway and on a large star with + and – solder points nearer to the star’s edges risk of contact with the reflector is basically nonexistent. Thinking if the gasket is replaced with a well trimmed thermal pad and the reflector rim is similarly treated with paste, then heat from the emitter could travel unimpeded through the reflector all the way to end of the lamp barrel and into the bezel.

Anyway as proof-of concept unscrewed the bezel on a Sofrin SP33 V3.0 and removed the reflector and base gasket from the lamp body. Next (because my .5mm thermal pads have not yet arrived) applied some no-name thermal grease to both the base and rim of the reflector, lowered the lamp body back down around it, then flipped everything back up. Before rescrewing the bezel with its O-rings and cover glass, fired up the Sofirn on Turbo to see if I could feel any heat in the reflector this way. And boy did it get hot! So screwed everything back in place and let the flashlight cool down against the window while readying my second SP33 for comparison. Turned both units on in Turbo simultaneously while clasping them in two hands. Thermally modified Sofirn got so hot around the bezel I couldn’t hold it long. Unmodified unit got hot too but not as painfully so. Thus I declare the experiment a success.

Now, none of the reflectorized flashlights or bike lights in my possession have any problem whatsoever with thermal regulation/step down, so this mod is not all that useful to me. Then again my Kaidomain BL70S XHP70.2 4000K bike light doesn’t get hot at all on its highest setting of 3000lm — but maybe it should? So once I get the .5mm thermal pads will see if they make any difference with thermal transfer in that lamp. JKK36R has similar build so might be useful there too (though I’ve never used turbo on that flashlight for more than a couple of minutes, out in the cold.)


Yes, this is a significant untapped source of thermal capacity. To my knowledge Armytek does it already but I haven’t seen that elsewhere…until today…thank you for sharing. Smile
djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 58 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17209
Location: Amsterdam

Henk4U2 wrote:
Maybe a silly question, but did you try anti-clockwise?

gchart wrote:
I hope so… Tool AAs are counter-clockwise and I don’t think I’ve run into any glue on them.

I did the same thing a few months back, learned my lesson (on a Tool AA) the hard way Sad


Thanks Tired , but not sure if I wanted to know that at this point, not much to rescue anymore Facepalm
forsh
forsh's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 01/15/2020 - 05:31
Posts: 548
Location: finland
CNCman wrote:
I purchased this cheap zoomie to leave in my work car for emergency use. And after removing a real XHP70 from my Buffalo mod, it was time to put it to some good use. I had practiced my first dedome on it. The tint was a big improvement and the light performed much better. If anyone has a suggestion how to mod the driver for a little more amp, but not too much, I’m all ears. Wink XANES® 1282 XHP70 LED 3 Modes USB Rechargeable Telescopic Zoom LED Flashlight 18650/26650 . . . The led was loose, so the thermal compound did not spread across the board, it was a copper mcpcb. . . The fake XHP70 . .

i have this zoomie also, i changed the led several times , from fake xhp50.2 fake xhp70 and a funny looking star with 4 leds each with there own dome on them
nothing was a powerfull as the original fake “xhp90” that came with it

now it only goes into low mode and is wierd, i think one of the smd resisters walked away somewhere

cost 30 euro including postage to finland
didnt come with a charger as promised
refunded in full

well ive got a zoom host and 2× 26650 batterys out of the deal for free

i might put a lexel driver in there and a xhp50.2 and see what it does

heat exchange on a zoomie isnt the best though

what did you end up doing on yours cnc

chris

https://www.facebook.com/groups/163189738353433/?ref=share
Join my Facebook FW3/4/1 selling and buying group guys

Pages