Hi all,
Is there currently any off-the-shelf option for light-up metal S2+ tail switches? I can find one for the rubber switches, but not the metal one.
Do the rubber light up switch mods work fine with the “old” 3/5 mode S2+ driver?
Thanks!
Not off the shelf, but while the button sizes are different, I think you can swap the guts with a lighted-switch board, and light would shine (dimly) through the semi-transparent ring around the metal button.
At least that’s what I’m planning to try with a violet S2+…
The 3/5 modes driver works well with a lighted switch. The one sold by Banggood works well but LED4POWER’s one are a much better option. Choice of color, brightness, RGB, low-voltage protection and excellent service.
I just got three of the blue switches from FastTech earlier in the month. I have six Convoy lights: a grey S2, two S2+, an M1, an M2 and a C8.
I could only install the switches on the C8 and S2, since the LED switch circuit boards are smaller and don’t make contact with the milled out retaining rings on the M1 and M2. I guess I could fashion a thin washer to work, but two out of three ain’t bad and I have a spare switch for those two lights.
For the S2+ tail caps with the metal switches, I wasn’t going to muck with them, as one is a 3Tronics triple LD 2 blaster with reinforced tail spring.
They do work as intended, with the 3-5 mode groups, but don’t look as beefy as the stock OEM switches, but I haven’t torn any switches down to confirm that.
Like switchblades, they’re a novelty in my mind, but they do look cool at night and are cheap to fiddle with!
Good luck, Chris
Thanks everybody. Does anyone know if they also play nice with the BLF A6 or MTN electronics 17DDm driver?
You will most likely have to add a bleeder resistor to the BLF A6 driver. It will work without the resistor but it get stuck on next memory mode.
Thank you. Is that simply a case of carefully soldering a little SMD resistor between the outer negative contact and the spring? How do I find out which value resistor to use?
Also, can you “disable” these lighted tailcaps by unscrewing the tail a bit to lock it out? I’m struggling a little to get my head around how the LEDs are powered!
I have tested the “Convoy lighted tailswitch” on the BLF A6 driver (specifically Astrolux C8), I installed the lighted tailswitch on a Convoy C8 tailcap to test with a Convoy C8, then tested that same tailcap on the Astrolux C8 (BLF A6 driver).
It looks like both flashlights (C8 with Biscotti) and C8 with BLF A6 will have “next mode memory”, plus medium half-press disappears (on the BLF A6, that means, cannot get to the special strobes modes, and also cannot medium-press to go to next lower brightness level.
I would like to ask, how is the bleeder resistor added? What kind or value of resistor is needed? Would you happen to have pictures of how it’s done or where the resistor is added (I don’t think I have the skill or a pointed soldering iron to do that, but I may find someone to try soldering for me if I know which ones to use).
Hey mate i just used a normal resistor on mine a metal film resistor but a surface mount makes more sense. You can also install the resistor on the other side of the board.
Cheers, that’s helpful.
Does unscrewing the tailcap a little to lock the light out also disable the tail light?
Yea it does but only on an anodized light so the light in the video you can’t lock out unless you take the tail cap of.
Also some lights don’t have anodized threads but lights like the S2+ and the normal BLF A6 will be okay the majority of light have anodized threads.
I just took apart my stock S2+ with the metal tail cap and it works fine with a normal tail cap light.
Fasttech sell some lit tail caps made by Convoy they are good and cheapest price i think plus it has all the parts needed.
Convoy tail cap
Exactly what I needed. A resistor to stop the light from going to the next mode, does it matter which end of the resistor goes on the positive? Thanks everydaysurvival!
resisters shouldnt matter what direction they go on.
I have an issue with a Convoy S6 and the bangood self lit tail cap. worked fine until I put a mtn fet board on it. would not stay lit on hi. starts out high then falls to a moon light no matter what mode its in. and has trouble switching modes as well. put the old switch back and it works fine. Do you think a resister will solve this problem as well? thanks
For the MTN-17DDm driver, you will need to add a bleeder resister in order for the functions to work if you install a lighted tail switch. This is what I’ve done for several flashlights which allows the Bistro firmware to work perfectly.
Thank you I was putting a resister on the tail cap switch and that was definitely not working LOL
What value resister is that