Is that blue stuff also under the board, to electrically insulate the ledboard from the pill (which is ground)? I’m not sure how hard you will drive the leds, but over say an amp you may run into thermal transfer problems through that thick layer.
Yesterday I finished modding my old Jacob A60 clone with a CSLNM1.TG (white flat 1mm) driven by 12x7135 nanjg and a forward clicky. Possibly going to air wire the driver so that I can have a star configurable single mode. I’m seeing a consistent 235kcd with this setup. Reflector tuning on this light is notoriously finicky, and I get to choose between beam artifacts and losing ~15kcd when swapping between different centering rings (clear vs white). Right now I chose having the artifacts. Pretty crazy the throw to size/weight ratio here.
Before installing the driver, I was running it direct drive off an old LG E1 with elevated internal resistance. Charged to 4.35V I would see 5.4A max (where I saw 250kcd turn-on) and it would stabilize at 4.4-4.8A for a long time actually. I feel now that I’m running the 7135s, there is a noticeable increase in heat generation.
EDIT: The Osram replaced an old XPE2 R4? dedomed running 2.3A direct drive from on old Sanyo UR laptop pull. That setup did 150kcd turn-on, ~140 after settling in.
To think that in the old days the stock Jacob A60 with domed XR-E did 55 kcd.
Nice mod!
Well, a picture is worth a thousand words so…
Fell 3 inches and removed everything 
It’s a Manker E02. I was successful and reflowed a new LED but it was misaligned and reheated it. I should have just taken the victory.
Anyone have any ideas how I can start fixing this? Most of the parts need to be reattached to the back(between the MCPCB and copper heatsink).
I have a Manker E02 in pieces too (not as many as you but still…) Whoever suggested that it is an ok light to mod: I find it hard and gave up for the time being.
It would be an easy fix though but the components under the MCPCB makes it very challenging. I’m giving up as well, it’s not something my skills, tools and patience can handle right now. I’ll stick to swapping LEDs on noctigon stars. :person_facepalming:
Aww man that sucks :rage:
Figured out along time ago…take notes and pic’s first and during the process just in case…(specially when u disassemble and are waiting on parts from around the world)
. TM36/SBT-90.2 build… in progress going on a couple months now… 4 intricately assembled levels had to be removed to empty the host, then reassembled to play with the driver outside the light, only to find out it will not produce the current I want… :cry:
Parts should be here soon…
It’s vintage electrical tape. I think I want non-DTP XHP70 mcpcbs. I see now how you did it:
A non-DTP board is simply the most sensible way to go, should be fine up to 3A.
L4P sells MosX boards extremely cheaply nowadays. He has 7070 variant.
That is cheap: MOSLED EXTREME ( MosX ) Ceramic Insulation 7070 MCPCB 20mm (Clearance Sale) €2.47 €0.40
I don’t understand what these were designed for?
For use with L4P drivers, that’s why they have pads for MOSFET and thermistor. But they work just as well with any other driver, you just have to solder-bridge the MOSFET pads.
I changed the clip on my V11R
Comparison with the old clip
Pinkpanda, I just recieved some EagleTac clips kinda like yours and I love these bolt-on style clips! Enjoy!
I have an L2, 1s,2s 26650 w/ XP-L HI and though it throws, 3A just wasn't enough so I had an extra Convoy 20mm, 6A SST40 driver to double the draw. Love it!
I almost got rid of it but I'm glad I held on to it.
Eagletac sell pocket clips?
I found out here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37376/8651
I then contacted sales@eagtac-usa.com in Florida and provided my light's serial number but I suspect these can be bought without one. For the US, it's a $5 general item purchase but you can see A1ee3x9re$$ Eag-tac store has them too, SS and black.
CRX CuTi Piston Drive Nichia 219C 5000K - Lexel TA Driver - 16340 - E-Tail Sw - 840lm.
.
CRX Halo XP-L HI 5000K - LD-A4 Driver - 18350 - Rv Clicky Lighted Tail Sw - 1800lm.
Nice job CRX… that looks beautiful! 
Simple mod for me last night. I reflowed off the stock SST-20 4000K 95 CRI LEDs in my FW3T and replaced them with XPL HI 5D. Also swapped in a 10507 optic and Sapphire glass lens.
The high CRI on these lights is beautiful… for close up use. But the extra output of XPL HI makes for a better general use light in my opinion.
Yesterday I moded 2 lights!
I had a Convoy S2 with SMO reflector, Osram White Flat and Led4Power driver. I decided I would take the driver and led out of it and instal them in an EagleEye X3R host.
The EagleEye X3R is a micro-USB rechargeable flashlight, with XP-L HD Led, and a 3 modes + Strobe (with double click) user interface.
So I took the driver out, took the led out of it and after HOURS, I managed to make it more or less good with the Osram LED. It is incredibly difficult to put this led under a SMO reflector, specially when the reflector is screwed in the flashlight bezel and turns when screwing the bezel in 
But I managed to get a so-so instalation.
I also re-used the Convoy S2 host.
I had a 5700K Nichia Led waiting to be installed (it was from the Jaxman E3) and a Biscotti Driver with just 4 x 7135 chips. I put the original OP reflector et voilá, a very decent tint and beam with High CRI and a nice form factor 
Oh, the X3R is compatible with the Convoy 18350 tubes
The X3R!
