FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

Thats just reducing the average current, not the peak current
So you deal only with heat not things like Auger recombination

I’ve wondered about that. It’s one reason I stay out of FET with my 219B’s.

Little update on this awesome light using 1 SMD 0805 red led and 1 SMD 12K resistor.



/\ VERY cool, Ryley! :+1:

I did a 219b swap. I flashed a modified version of Anduril that was limited to 60% FET max (219 version in FSM is 75% iirc) and use an NCR18650GA as well as keeping the thermal ceiling around 50-55C. It’ll happily sit in turbo until it throttles without any issues. Didn’t try it with a high-drain cell, I imagine I’d need to be a little more careful with something like a 30Q or higher.

Ignorant here, I have replaced the 219C emitters on my FW3A with 219B ones, no other changes made and I am using a. LG HG2 cell.

Can someone please sum up the issues my setup has and how to fix them?

The 219B config in FSM is 50% FET. I haven’t seen any trouble turboing mine but I’ve never done it for long—and I don’t know if the LEDs get damaged before they start to turn blue.

From where could I download it?
Turbo can’t be disabled via firmware mod?
Mike

Actually, I’m pretty sure TK posted a no-FET version recently.

Edit:
Found it: Index of /torches/fsm

The file is anduril.2019-12-17.fw3a-nofet.hex

One thing I noticed about my FW3 series lights was that the switch wasn’t equal in all of them. My 2 first run FW3As had noticeably stiffer and clickier switches than in the later run models. And one in particular seemed much stiffer. However, even that stiff switch still seemed to require less pressure than all the other switches when those other switches received the o-ring mod and the stiff one had not.

This morning I finally performed the o-ring mod on the stiffest switch.

I’m thinking this might actually be a bit TOO stiff now.

  • Using a postal scale I measured 78 oz of pressure is now required to depress the switch … that’s nearly 5 pounds (approximately 2200 grams)!!! You could stand an empty BLF GT on the switch and it would not be enough weight to depress it.
  • When the switch does cycle it now makes a very loud click … as loud as a clicky flashlight and much louder than all my other e-switch lights.
  • On the upside, the switch is now so stiff, chances of accidentally pocket activation are probably near zero. This would mean I could set max ramp at max turbo and probably not have to worry about accidentally burning a hole in my pocket.

Another installation for my friend. Lexel aux board with direct power from battery, 2 color led, 1mA. Slightly too bright for this setup, but it still cool anyway.


Still pretty bright on moonlight mode

Cool, I like it! :+1:

I traded the fw3d I modded for this fw3a. I didn’t know it could pulse till I tried the different modes. Super happy with it :heart_eyes:

Quick question.
I just swapped emitters in mine fw3a from lh351d 4000K cri90 to sst-20 3000K 95cri.
It looks 2x dimmer on turbo than before….
Is it normal, that sst-20 produce less lumens?
Mike

SST-20 definitely produces less lumens, but the tint is very nice.

I’d assume that the change from 4000K to 3000K is making most of the visual difference. The Samsung emitters definitely produce more output, but not 2x more.

I was thinking 2x seemed like a lot too. I know there is a big difference between the XP-L and SST emitters.

Thanks, it seems that is normal.
Tint and colour reproduction of sst-20 is really nice. I can live with less lumens :slight_smile:
Mike

I agree with you. At first, I was very disappointed in the output, and the heat a little bit, but after getting used to it, I really like it. The tint is great, and honestly, it is not nearly as bright as the XP-L, but still plenty bright.

In one of my FW3As, I had to change the o-ring for the button stiffening mod to a larger diameter one. This was because I got accidental activations. It’s been about a week with the new o-ring and, so far, no accidental activations.