Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

in that case you should not buy one then, get h03-04 it has all of those thing stock, for upclose work get one with tir, for distance get R model with reflector, or you can get smaller reflector and a flap, that ,makes the beam wide. and no. you do not need to do anything, with d10. it is fine the way it comes from a box. pretty much same way as honda civic is a great car in stock form, but some upgrade the hell out of it, does it need those upgrades? no, millions drive them stock and happy, people that modify them, just want to upgrade them, cuz they like doing it.

btw why do you need a pocket clip on a headlamp? but if you insist, convoy s 2, 6 clip snaps right on and stays there firmly, and cost like 2-3 bucks, but keep in mind putting that clip on and off will scratch anodizing, but then, my h02 has same issue, it’s clip destroyed anodizing in my h02 as well. do not have one for zl, maybe zl anodizing is stronger, idk, but for 90- 100 bucks it better be

The clip to attach the light on the front strap of a backpack. This way the light shines in front of you. The Convoy S2 with its clip will shine downward to the feet. I prefer to attach the light like that or in the front pocket. I will use the headband only when there is no better method.

About “scratching anodizing”: this is something cosmetic, external coating right? Not a problem. As long as that scratching doesn’t interfere with the working of the flashlight (like shining light and switch working properly). And the pocket clip is solid enough so that the flashlight doesn’t pop out unexpectedly.

i meant using s2 clip on d10, it will shine forward, you can clip it on either side, button up or down, but the light will always shine forward
yes it is a cosmetic issue only.

if you want to use it on your backpack, you can also attach second holder to the sling, and snap the light in, out in half a second, very easy, do it even 1000 times no damage to anodizing from plastic holder, now stock extra holders are impossible to get separately, but you can easy 3d print one, there are few designs available, gchart designed 3 and i designed 1, i also designed a holder for zl that works like d10 holder. designs are tested and they work,

also if you taking it backpacking, camping, there is always a chance you lose it, it can happen to any light, d10 is very cheap for the price of 1 h02-3 you can get 3 or 4 d10.

also keep this in mind, h02, zl…. you can get in neutral even warm white, d10 afaik only available in cool white. if that matters to you, d10 may not be your light, it is easy to replace leds, but you have to have parts, and skills,

Loosen up the strap fully and wear it loosely around your neck . It's the most comfortable way to wear any headlamp . keeping the light under your chin keeps glare out of your eyes and looks about 10 times less dooffy. it's how all the cool kids are running their lights these days . Add a piece of diffuser film instead of messing with TIR optics .

I have had about 6 of these lights and it gets more play than 95% of my other lights . IMHO it's a great light to gift . To a nonaholic it's bright as hell ...it's rechargeable ..it has that weird Samsung battery in it. what's not to love . A headlamp is a "Must Have" light . I suggest the ...Manker if its still on sale 12~17$ the D-10 boruit ..The D-10 Nitecore :), the skilhunt h03 ,the armytek and a "used" zebralight...in that order . shut up and buy it !

Newb question:
I unscrewed the driver cap, wanted to remove the driver just to learn how to do it before I purchase a replacement.
Now…how do I take the driver off? I tried gently pushing from the inside, no effect.
I tried pulling from the outside, the outer PCB moves a bit but does not come out.

May I get help with that?

First you have to unsolder LED wires and then from inside push out driver-charger sandwich

I see. Thanks. :slight_smile:

En even newbier question. What is the difference between “driver” and “MCPCB” ?

The MCPCB is the metal plate the led sits on top of and is soldered on to. Has 2 contacts with wires going into it.

Driver is the circuit board that has all the electronic bits that controls the current and voltage to the led, and also has a microcontroller that gives you modes.

My D10 now features CRI95 SST-20 3000K on a lightweight MOSLED MCPCB. :slight_smile:
$10 flashlight,$.20 TIR lens, ~$.50 MCPCB, spare LED. Not bad so far. Budget? Definitely. :slight_smile:
But I’d like to try some other TIRs and have $50 order from Yajiamei on the way….

Stock driver? :smiley:

i used your driver in blf contest build, Alpg88 2019 Old-Lumens Challenge Entry, machine category.

Never thought it will end up like this :smiley:

So far yes. I’m thinking about it. :wink:
But I need to have the firmware ready before I do the swap. Which is not a priority for me now.

The Quadrupel driver adds a nice indicator to the button.

Also, I’ve heard of product “fade” but have never seen it. This newer version feels cheaper than the previous one I owned.
The anodizing and actual aluminum feel different. Not a huge deal, just surprising. Driver and charging circuit looked the same, same light, just…different.
Still rocks for the price! Thinking about using this one on my bicycle. (and if TomTom is reading, yes, I’ll put a little hood on it to keep it from “dazzling” drivers)

edit: forgot to add the the MCPCB shelf had a crazy texture like milling marks and there’s no way this thing is making great contact with the board.
also if replacing the driver try to dig up some teflon insulated wire to replace the originals with. Teflon because it will endure the heat of reconnecting them multiple times if you decide to experiment with different emitters.

And guess how the manufacctuer figures out that an improvement might be a popular sales item. It’s not like they have their own QA/QC/design staff hard at work.

Say what? How do you get that indicator lamp, I don’t see it documented as built into the headlamp.

I don’t know what a “Quadrupel driver” is and Google isn’t helping.