FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

I have six FWxx lights. I’ve only had an issue with one of them and it was as you described. If the head was loosened or removed and then replaced it would turn on. After a couple failures to turn on, I took off the head and checked the contact ring on the driver side and noticed some excess grease had worked its way in there. Wiped it off with some IPA and it’s been fine ever since.

I took out a white O-ring that was in between the tail cap and pocket clip and I have not experienced anymore problems with the light.

No, the retaining ring was added just to prevent people from accidentally losing the little nub.

Have you tried a continuity test with the head removed just to see if the switch is working with the new 18350 body and inner tube?

It is easy to start thinking all the lights are troublesome when you hear people say they have a problem on the troubleshooting thread. Just remember there are many hundred, maybe thousand?, FW3A lights sold, but only a few dozen have issues. It’s basically the same for all flashlights, cars, TV’s, etc… The percentage of defects or problems can be higher for some models compared to other models.

I’ve only have one early light and it acted funny at first until I figured out I have to loosen the head, then tighten the tail, then tighten the head. I’ve had zero issues since then.

I think this light might have a slightly higher percentage of issues compared to others simply due to the design with it’s tight tolerances.

So don’t let this thread trick you into thinking everyone is having problems. I try to think positive. :smiley:

Ah, so your light is working now? :+1:

This o-ring is only to prevent the clip from rotating. I wonder if it was preventing you from fully tightening the tail to the body and squeezing the inner tube contacts to the switch?

Maybe others should try this. It’s easy to do.

I just got mine in the mail this morning. I bought it for a few reasons:

1. I reviewed the "Vote for the Best Light of 2019" topic thread, and saw it scored super high.

2. Most compact, high power, single 18650 light.

3. I like this friendly and helpful forum community, so I thought I should add another nice budget light to my collection, so I can feel more fit in with this forum community. (I have Emisar, Imalent, Manker, Nightwatch and Noctigon lights that I like and love and am excited about very, very much)

4. This light is recommended by leading luminaries of the Flashlight World.

5. Cost is almost free.

6. Zero body prints.

7. No frills, simple yet elegant, attractive design.

8. No pesky magnet in the tailcap.

Mine arrived in, has been in, and is stuck in "box of chocolates" mode. There is no way of knowing in advance what is going to happen and/or not happen if I click once while off, click once while on, click and hold when off, click and hold while on, double click while on, or double click while off.

Because I am late to the FW3A party, I had plenty of time to review the troubleshooting tips and tricks.

I did not loosen and re tighten the tailcap, because it is beyond hand-tight out of the box.

I tried reset by removing the head and holding the button while re-connecting the head. Click four times while on yields nothing. Click three times while off yields nothing.

At the moment: Click once from off to turn on = Nothing.

Double click from off = Sometimes turbo, sometimes medium power.

Double click from on = Turbo.

Press and hold from off = medium power, no ramping. I can not access any ramping nor any stepping function at all whatsoever.

Press and hold from on = Turn off. I can not access any ramping nor any stepping function at all whatsoever.

I have been senior global moderator for more than a few years of the official forum of the worlds consistently highest independently rated premium anti virus company, so I know, as was mentioned a few or so posts above, that troubleshooting topic thread means only a very small percentage of users see any issues.

I am all good/very happy with points 3, 5, 6, 7 and 8 above, so I am happy to add this light to my collection.

What battery are you using? Flat top?

You really do need to loosen head and tail. Tighten tail, then head.

Check that all retaining rings are tight.

Thank you for your reply.

I tried unprotected flat top purple Efest and LG 3500.

I will try that, after I think for a bit about the proper tools and protective media. Two vice grips and leather strap come to mind.

I don't have the tool for the driver retaining ring.

If you shake the battery tube/tailcap assembly while separated from the head, are there any rattles?

One suggestion:

I noticed later model FW3 series lights have a retaining ring in the tailcap. This is to prevent the switch guts from falling out of the light if the tailcap is removed.

However, I noticed in my FW3T that this ring is VERY finicky.

  • Screw it in too tight and it seems to hold the switch PCB at a very slight angle resulting in poor connection and a malfunctioning light.
  • Screw it in too loose and it prevents the tailcap from screwing in all the way and the light does not work at all or malfunctions.

If you’re having problems with your light, one place to start is to remove the tailcap and try loosening and/or tightening that tailcap retaining ring until it works properly. Alternatively, you can simply remove the tailcap retaining ring. It isn’t necessary if you open the light from the front like you should.

That said, I don’t think this advice will help Richbuff. The behavior he reported (like press-and-hold for off) seems like it would require firmware reprogramming.

Thanks guys. No rattling of head or body/tail. I don't want to put tools on it to loosen and then re tighten the tail.

Between driver, firmware and hardware, I can only guess.

Nothing is glued in the FW3A. Tools shouldn’t be necessary. If you want to remove the tailcap, just grip it really hard and turn. If you’re having trouble getting enough grip try using a piece of rubber or grip tape for added grip.

Note also that malfunctions in the tailcap of the FW3A never result in a rattling tailcap. The inner switch tube can be misaligned or touching the wrong thing at the back without any rattle whatsoever.

Sometimes I wrap a rubber band around stuck parts to get a better grip without marring the finish. I’d bet the tail needs to be loosened or disassembled.

Broke my tail switch o’ring trying to remove the pocket clip and found out that the spare don’t fit. Brand new flashlight.

How does it not fit? Too thick?

It’s only job is anti rotation. Some people don’t even use them. I don’t use it in my light. You might try a local hardware store. If no luck, maybe ebay.

I’m talking about the black o’ring for the water resistance. The one at the head is larger than the one at the tail. I can’t screw the tail cap enough.
Lumintop should send them as spare too. I’ll try at my local hardware store or online thanks!

edit: Now I’m thinking about put some silicone sealant. It will protect from water and prevent me from taking the tail cap out again.

Pocket clip oring size is 17mm x 1mm (thickness).

He’s talking about the battery tube o-ring at the tail.

Thanks I’ll order from Aliexpress.

I think he’s right. The thickness of the white one is a lot smaller than 1mm.