What improvements do you like to see in the D1S upgrade?
I like it - it's a bit dark but looks good.
The D1S was in a class of its own when it came out in terms of being as compact as possible while keeping the 50mm head size. Then the lumintop GT mini came out with very similar dimensions.
I might like to see the updated D1S keep the 50mm head but be made for 21700 cell. This would make it unique again and give it a power/runtime boost.
Hi Hank - I'd expect the D1S V2 to be the new generation driver with lit switch, like the K1, programmable with the standard programming clip, etc.
fyi - finally getting some tracking movement on the last order, and thanx for shipping out that order from last night so quick!
Something the size of the D1 with 100+ kcd would be great. Osram in D1 host maybe? And lighted button, of course. 
Yes, 21700 battery, similiar driver like in the K1, so that the Osram LED can be used to reach 300Kcd+.
21700 battery indeed :+1: + Osram W2 led
Perhaps you can get hold of Boost HX leds, KW CULPM1-TG, the 4040 version of the W2, it can be driven a bit harder for some more output with the same die dimension.
I find it totally unnecessary to stress over the beam profile at close range when it’s a long range light. Perfect or slightly off at 8’ will be completely irrelevant at 5280’.
BOOST HX!! YES PLEASE!!! :+1:
It’s an indication that the reflector isn’t focused properly. Could be leaving performance on the table.
Mine were worst than that actually.
It looks worse the farther back you go when inside. Of course, outside at night I can’t tell there’s a problem. I just don’t want that nagging feeling that it’s lacking performance.
That’s a good option Jos
Rayoui, fully aware of what it indicates… can you see that tiny performance gain at a mile if you get it perfect? Which was exactly my point… relevance. Sure, the OCD in us makes every tiny bit seem life and death, but it’s really going to be difficult to find the difference after spending the time to make it perfect, even on the meters, the eye will only ever see it on the wall in a white wall hunting expedition. There are a very high percentage of times when it pays to leave well enough alone, after some 1000 builds I am figuring this out…
It’s likely that very small non-centeredness makes no difference to the beam center intensity. Even with a small LED like the WF there is some room for error.
You can check whether the focus is good enough. If you make a pinhole in a piece of thin cardboard or Al foil and move it around the reflector face you can isolate the parts of the beam from different parts of the reflector. Essentially if the isolated beams from different parts of the reflector overlap at the beam center than you are utilizing the whole reflector area and the beam intensity is maximized. My description is probably not clear to someone not already familiar with these ideas, but see here for a more complete procedure.
On second thought, this test is sensitive to the vertical focus of the LED, but I’m not sure if it works as well for lateral focus.
I’m well aware the difference would be small and likely unnoticeable. The same could be said about a lot of things people worry about here, like different batteries giving you a 10% delta in lumens. I personally wouldn’t worry about something as minor as a tiny misalignment like the one shown. But, on the other hand, isn’t fiddling with lights to squeeze out maximum performance what we do around here?
P.S… Any word on the XHP version?
I’d like an XHP as well. I ordered the creamy green also, I figure it’ll be a great camping tool for signalling.
I’m looking to buy a K1 as my first thrower. Got the D4V2 last week and im very impressed.
I’m wondering if anyone has thought about offering a D4 head swap on the K1 body since it has the 21700 battery/charger.
Is that feasible? or if not is a 21700 d4v2 in the works?