If you shake the battery tube/tailcap assembly while separated from the head, are there any rattles?
One suggestion:
I noticed later model FW3 series lights have a retaining ring in the tailcap. This is to prevent the switch guts from falling out of the light if the tailcap is removed.
However, I noticed in my FW3T that this ring is VERY finicky.
- Screw it in too tight and it seems to hold the switch PCB at a very slight angle resulting in poor connection and a malfunctioning light.
- Screw it in too loose and it prevents the tailcap from screwing in all the way and the light does not work at all or malfunctions.
If you’re having problems with your light, one place to start is to remove the tailcap and try loosening and/or tightening that tailcap retaining ring until it works properly. Alternatively, you can simply remove the tailcap retaining ring. It isn’t necessary if you open the light from the front like you should.
That said, I don’t think this advice will help Richbuff. The behavior he reported (like press-and-hold for off) seems like it would require firmware reprogramming.
Thanks guys. No rattling of head or body/tail. I don't want to put tools on it to loosen and then re tighten the tail.
Between driver, firmware and hardware, I can only guess.
Nothing is glued in the FW3A. Tools shouldn’t be necessary. If you want to remove the tailcap, just grip it really hard and turn. If you’re having trouble getting enough grip try using a piece of rubber or grip tape for added grip.
Note also that malfunctions in the tailcap of the FW3A never result in a rattling tailcap. The inner switch tube can be misaligned or touching the wrong thing at the back without any rattle whatsoever.
Sometimes I wrap a rubber band around stuck parts to get a better grip without marring the finish. I’d bet the tail needs to be loosened or disassembled.
Broke my tail switch o’ring trying to remove the pocket clip and found out that the spare don’t fit. Brand new flashlight.
How does it not fit? Too thick?
It’s only job is anti rotation. Some people don’t even use them. I don’t use it in my light. You might try a local hardware store. If no luck, maybe ebay.
I’m talking about the black o’ring for the water resistance. The one at the head is larger than the one at the tail. I can’t screw the tail cap enough.
Lumintop should send them as spare too. I’ll try at my local hardware store or online thanks!
edit: Now I’m thinking about put some silicone sealant. It will protect from water and prevent me from taking the tail cap out again.
Pocket clip oring size is 17mm x 1mm (thickness).
He’s talking about the battery tube o-ring at the tail.
Thanks I’ll order from Aliexpress.
I think he’s right. The thickness of the white one is a lot smaller than 1mm.
Lumintop support told me the white O-ring is 16mm x 0.8mm.
And what function does this rubber ring perform? Moisture protection? I spun off the shank and pulled out the tube with the rubber ring, then when I put everything in place, I couldn ’t tighten the shank, the clip was almost free to rotate. I was only able to tighten the shank well after I removed this rubber ring. What did I do wrong?
Which o-ring are you refering to?
If the one on the clip, it is for anti rotation as mentioned before. It can prevent full tightening of the tail cap on certain lights.
Moisture protection comes from the black o-ring near the threads.
I meant a white rubber on a black tube
Helps to keep the tube from shorting against the body.
With this sealing rubber, I cannot tighten the shank, the clip is not fixed rigidly, moves.
Wait are there two white O-rings? One on the clip, and one on the switch tube? I may have re-assembled one of my lights wrong. But the switch tube is anodized, so it doesn’t short.
Maybe I didn ’t install the rings correctly. How many rubber rings should be on the tube? White rings where should they stand?
