Thanks for sharing shirnask. My light was only 2 euros so I might skip this mod to keep everything budget on this light
I’m curious about your picture. Is your exposure cranked up? Or are they anywhere near that visible at night?
I bought a couple vials (from a random AliExpress vendor) last year and installed one in my raw BLF Edition C01S. But it’s soooo dim. I can hardly see it in a pitch black room.
I’m about to get a ReyLight LAN and am thinking about tricking it out with a bunch of trits. But if they’ll hardly be visible in a dark room, I’m not so sure I want to drop the $70 to do so.
I think the glue you use to fix them in place is pretty important.
yes, shirnask has some great trit pics, I wonder how he does it too:
it’s soooo dim. I can hardly see it in a pitch black room.
what color did you choose?
green is the brightest
in this photo I took during the day, I was shining a UV light on the tiny 2mm long green trit, to make it show up
I can easily see tritiums on the nightstand when I wake up in the dark
my iPhone can see them too:
but I cannot see their glow during the day, unless I go into a pitch black room and hold them up to my face
I used a crystal clear UV cure glue, albeit not Norland.
Here’s what my camera sees (left) vs an adjusted pic of how it looks to me (right):
gchart. that’s about right unless your eyes are heavily adjusted like jon_slider mentions waking up at night. If the trit is a little more exposed it may be incrementally brighter too, some slots are pretty deep. the one’s i’ve poked into the rubber nub of clear clicky switch boots are just as visible as this green one when on a dark night stand.
Here’s what my camera sees (left) vs an adjusted pic of how it looks to me (right):
seems normal
trits brightness is somewhat additive
that is, more trits are more visible than just one
but still very dim, still not visible during daylight, but very visible when I wake up in the dark
imo Trits make excellent locators for a light on the nightstand, and they are entertaining to look at when visiting the porcelain throne in the middle of the night
trits cost does add up
it is not hard to spend as much or more on multi trit installs, than the original cost of the host
jon_slider,
Those two pics are exactly the ones I’ve been looking at. I realize the effect may be exaggerated in those pics, but the LANs look stunning in them. But I’m scared of spending the ~$70 and never being able to see that they’re there.
I understand that they will never be visible in a well lit room and I’m good with that. But I’d want to be able to see them at night time.
I’d want to be able to see them at night time.
for me, trits produce a visible glow, but when I wake in the dark, without my bifocals on, they produce a fuzzy glow.
I can NOT make out the clear outlines of each trit that we see in the photos… it is more like your second photo… dim and fuzzy, but visible… depending how good your eyes are I guess.
for me, this 6 trit button was a waste,
I could not see well enough to tell the colors apart, and I did not like that the layers overlapped and broke up the full view of each trit
Im much happier with the 3 trit button on the right:
I dont own a TiLan, so it will be up to you to share your tritted Lan experience with us
(its only money, you deserve it… lol)
gchart. that’s about right unless your eyes are heavily adjusted like jon_slider mentions waking up at night. If the trit is a little more exposed it may be incrementally brighter too, some slots are pretty deep. the one’s i’ve poked into the rubber nub of clear clicky switch boots are just as visible as this green one when on a dark night stand.
Here’s a small trick to get a very slight amount more visibility from the tritium vial by removing the anodization in the slot (or get the bare aluminum version of the C01s):
I can not test the magnet hole because it is a fraction too small for a 5mm magnet, but I did check the trit hole lasat night. I reckoned that to get more light out, the inside of the hole should be bare aluminium instead of black ano, so I removed the anodisation there with caustic soda. I’m not 100% convinced about the result, you can probably see the trit a bit better, but when not in the dark, it probably looks better if the trit hole is black. About the video, I removed a section of 2 minu…
Thanks! But yeah… I already have the bare aluminum version
jon_slider,
Those two pics are exactly the ones I’ve been looking at. I realize the effect may be exaggerated in those pics, but the LANs look stunning in them. But I’m scared of spending the ~$70 and never being able to see that they’re there.
I understand that they will never be visible in a well lit room and I’m good with that. But I’d want to be able to see them at night time.
I took this picture in a dark room - just automatic settings on the camera - the only thing I did to the picture is change the contrast setting.
This is the one beside my bed at night - my favorite, but almost too bright for my dark adapted eyes ( bad picture taken in a dark room )
On the CO1S the trit slot is very deep and in order to get the best visibility for the single trit I put a small sliver of clear plastic about 1mm thick under the trit to raise it close to the top of the slot. This gave a much better result than my early attempts.
Thanks for the pictures and impressions guys. I think I’m just going to go for it. You only live once, right? Can’t take it with you…
turned up the contrast
I like your trit solution for the Original RRT-01 a lot
are those 6mm trits?
and if you did it again, would you do anything different?
.
I think I’m just going to go for it. You only live once, right?
wonder what colors you will choose?
I look forward to your days of joy
[quote=jon_slider]
turned up the contrast
I like your trit solution for the Original RRT-01 a lot
are those 6mm trits?
and if you did it again, would you do anything different?
Yes, they are 1.5×6mm. For my purpose I really only need 3 trits to make it bright enough for me in the middle of the night.
This light makes it easy to add from one to five trits around the tail cap as it slopes down from the center to the inner edge enough to completely encapsulate the 1.5×6mm trits in Norland 61 – making them difficult to damage.
(I do sleep in a very dark room and what I find bright might not be so for others.)
These just went on sale on aliexpress, various colors available.
Nice. Can’t get the US pricing though. Gave up after trying for a while.
Got my red C01S yesterday and tried it with a Vapcell 10440, and its a pocket cannon at high, though it does get warm quite quickly. It barely gets warm on low. Anyone else using their C01S with a 10440? I plan to use it mostly on low.
Be careful with that! If you search this thread for 10440, you’ll find that some members have had luck with a 10440 while some haven’t been so fortunate:
Gonna wait for that While waiting for a second batch of these to jump in the boat a get a couple And then get those Vapcell The results are in, C01S on Vapcell 10440: 3sec 53 lumen 10sec 29 lumen 20sec 34 lumen 30sec 38 lumen 40sec [image] So the 10440 gave surprisingly a lower output than an Eneloop. It appeared that both the tail spring had collapsed, breaking contact, and that the driver stopped working as boost driver: lengthening the spring mad…
Low (Eneloop):
CCT = 3628K (Duv 0.0043)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 95.1 [ R9 = 82.9 ]High (Eneloop):
CCT = 3750K (Duv 0.0040)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 95.7 [ R9 = 88.0 ]
I find tint of sst20 4000k a bit green and inconsistent if used indoor on night,also blue peak seem high.
If will be shave does Duv and CCT decrease for get a good warm tint?