Thrunite T10T V2 with Neutral White XP-L

inductor noise happens, even to some very expensive lights
it is not harmful

but I can live without it… :slight_smile:

I hope you get a replacement that does not hum… it is not “supposed to” hum.

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the fastest way to get the correct email, is to begin the process of a Paypal dispute.

You do not have to file the dispute, just use the email contact that paypal shows when they suggest you contact the merchant first.

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Be prepared to post a video on Youtube, even if the hum is not obvious that way, the paper pushers may require it as part of procedure to cover their a, before replacing your light.

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hopefully Thrunite will just mail you a replacement (and let you keep the bad one)
or they might refund you, if you prefer, and let you keep the bad one.

their customer service script might require them to suggest you mail the bad one back, you should politely decline that expense, and offer them the opportunity to send you a prepaid label (they wont).

their scripted negotiation steps may also include lowballing you with a 25% credit, which after you decline, they raise to 50%… decline again, they get to full refund or replace

hopefully you wont need to get the full monte, and you will end up with a nice quiet light, plus a backup that hums

Good Ole Red Loctite. Good stuff, if you never want to ever take it apart again. :stuck_out_tongue:
Makes your face turn red too, from straining your guts out trying to get it to break free.
Wonder if that’s why they made it red.
Good job on cracking and modding the light jon_slider. :+1:

Thank You Sir!

The High CRI LED mod, with nice orange incandescent tint for mellow evening light, made all the difference, for me.

Now the light makes me smile, and the Reds really Pop!

Great small lightweight AA… I ordered some Eneloops for guilt free lumens…,

You are a terrible influence on my wallet

LOL

I have a couple of good friends like that… :slight_smile:

Thrunite wants me to return it to Amazon and wait a month for a replacement, I told them I can’t do that because the state that I am in is in lockdown currently. We will go from there and see what they say, thanks for the advice

Nice mod. Did you reflow the LED on the stock mcpcb or find one that fits?

@ ch1ir I only have AA batteries. I do not know if my light would hum with 14500. Which battery type are you getting Hum with?

output differences, pic is a link to an excellent review:

So as not to be without a light during resolution process:
my strategy in response to that offer would be:

1. Buy another light as a separate transaction

2. Once I have a working light in hand, I would return the defective light for refund.

3. Or return both if both hum. I think the hum is unusual, and your next one should be fine. Im an optimist :slight_smile:

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I used the stock mcpcb

because the LED I installed and the one that comes stock, are both xp style LEDs

this allowed me to use the stock centering ring, which worked perfectly. Centering is perfect and the beam is really really clean in transition from hotspot to spill.

super happy with the quality of the beam using the stock mcpcb

Yes. I have several T10T v2 and all of them emit a high-pitched “hum” when on Low mode (not moonlight). Tested with 14500 and NiMH AA as well. Other modes (ML, M, H) on my units do not have the “hum”.

Nice :+1:

Awesome feedback and thanks for the tips on the disassembly! Just purchased one but not expecting it until early May :frowning: Will be swapping to either a 218B/SST-20/LH351D depending on how I feel at the time. I’ll try the boiling water trick first, that has usually worked very well for me.

I have discovered an unusual bug, I dont know how to solve it yet. But I know how to cause it.

It was seeming like every time I opened one of these lights, something would go wrong. I had one set aside for over a month beause I could not figure out why it stopped working. I bought another one cause I thought the first one had a dead driver. Now the New one acts just like the first one.

bottom line
These two lights only work properly if I do not overtighten the bezel. Unfortunately for my OCD, that means I cant line up the logo on the bezel, with the switch button, even though they came lined up originally.

(unless I can make peace with using loctite to hold the bezel in place after backing off the threads a turn, which will leave a “big” bezel gap… aaargh!)

in any case they are working properly atm, one is 3000k 219b, the other 660nm red. I run them on Eneloop only.

rant:
I dont really like sideswitch lights… given my vision challenges, a tailswich is easier to find. There is a previous model of this light, with tailswitch and a screw on clip, that I prefer… But I suspect it also has PWM on the low mode. This model has a tailmagnet, that I have not yet removed. I consider them a nuisance. I also have not added a battery sleeve yet, to stop it from rattling so easy… oh and, one of them only works if I make sure to get the head a bit extra tight… seems I screwed something up in there too… these guys are some of the worst to work on, of my limited experiece, and also one of the hardest to open, and the bezel has the scratches to prove it… oh well… still fun when they work. :slight_smile:

on AA Eneloop

T10T w 660nm red led
0.16, 1.3, 17, 73 lumens

T10T with sw30
0.23, 2.0, 30, 82 lumens

I loved the old style T10. I don’t mind side switches but I definitely prefer tail clickies in lights below a certain size.

Very nice info. I bought a few and all of them have variation. I had one that didn’t want to turn on unless the mid section was screwed on super tight. Guess thrunite had a rough time working with Titanium. I believe someone emailed the owner and they said as soon as stock runs out, not going to make them anymore. One of the best deals for a titanium light. The next one up is double or tripple the price! A must have to add to the collection.

I have one that also only works if I make the head extra snug to the body.

I think the pill supporting the driver needs to be unscrewed a bit so the body tube makes contact more easily with the pill.

I agree they are good looking and bargain priced for a Titanium host

I like the hand feel, high gloss shine, and form factor, not too phat, and not too heavy…

Yah, this there are quite a few issues, but for titanium at this price we all forgive xD. One of them I had to return as the button was super springy and didn’t feel tactile firm. It was a horrible feel and I hope as ours wear down it doesn’t feel like that down the road.

Is it possible to remove the tail of the magnet?

have not tried, but I think it is held by the spring, should be easy to remove if not glued.

however, removing the magnet will let the spring collapse since it is normally supported by the magnet, so if you dont want magnetism, maybe best to kill the magnet but not remove it.

I have not tried, but have heard that people kill magnets with a soldering iron. Be careful, neodymium is toxic and can catch fire., So dont break it into pieces and swallow any, and dont use a flame to heat it.

share what you learn

Nice perseverance.

The glue on the bezel is really nasty stuff. :person_facepalming:

thanks, yes, I had a really hard time opening the T10T lights.

today I removed the 660nm and installed a 730nm.

I wanted to see what would happen to the modes…
here are the modes on my meter:

Thrunite T10T w XP-E2 730nm on AA Eneloop
0.04, 0.2, 1, 5 lumens

here is what my meter thinks is 5 lumens on Both 660nm and 730nm. My eyes and camera see the outputs differently than my meter does.