Thank you lightdecay. My light was shipped today. I really hope it has below bbl tint or I will definitely have to reflow some other LEDs.
Hank, do you know what tint are my SST20 LEDs?
He ordered SST-20 3000K. Still HB4? Any chance of HD2 bin in the near future?
I thought it was FA3 only the last time I asked. So you ordered a FD2 batch also? Please only use FA3 because it is noticeably less yellow/green than the FD2. Of course if you can get FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 bin would be even better. 
I ordered SSTSST-20 3000K indeed.
FD2 is right beside FA3 the difference is 125K, it is very little, it is neither above BBL and neither a thousands of Kelvin distance, to be more “yellow” and “green”
What size trits for the KR4?
I think the confusion is due to some test samples (don’t remember the source for them) sent to members being basically confirmed to be a different bin than they labeled as IIRC.
A few notes from my blue KR4 copy…
• The switch needs more travel to activate over my FW3A (gasket modded). It also feels & sounds a bit springy/grindy, especially on the edges, but works fine none the less. I will do some R&D to see if I can mod it in a similar fashion to the FW for a more consistent and stable feel.
• I chose a yellow tritium vial which works decent although it is quite dim like lower end watch hands. But still much better than the overpriced turboglow button switch and gasket on my FW3A which gasses out in minutes and is mostly unusable in pure darkness.
• Hank assured me my copy would be an FA3 iteration of the SST20 4000K. At first glance it looked quite neutral and devoid of greens throughout the ramp range. But after comparing it to my 219Bs, 219Cs, and other lights (going on 30+ now) I did notice a very slight tinge of green comparatively. Maybe I received an FD2 bin? Dunno. I used a 1/4 minus green filter and it has neutralized any green hues and I did not notice much OTF falloff in power. The beam pattern is a tad crunchy on these optics but only noticeable if you are up really close to a white all. Perhaps I need to do a DC Fix for a bit more blend or diffusion.
• Overall, the light feels a bit gritty out of the box but after several days of use it now feels quite smooth and grippy. I actually prefer the heft over my other 18650 lights, unlike most people, as it just feels more solid and likely able to absorb and dissipate heat better throughout the core.
• I was surprised that the Clip wasn’t as ghastly as it looked in pictures. It’s quite robust and geometric/modern looking. Pretty solid if you ask me. Personally, I prefer lanyards (which is included) so i switched to that setup.
Here are some awful crappy phone pics, including a corner beam shot with the minus green, that actually looks fairly close to IRL (to my old eyes at least). My ceiling is white and the wall is a basic gray.
NOTE: The KR4 color is more of a denim blue rather than the more muted cyan on the D4S models. I’ve seen many quoting they were “ready to order the cyan kr4” They are very different blues.
Cheers.
In reality from my testing and others, the FA3 is noticeably less green than the FD2 bins (less positive duv). It is still not rosy by any means except on turbo. But it is decent enough to not be annoying.
I haven’t seen a 219C 4000K below the BBL. Which 219C light did you compare it to?
I have 2 FW3As…an XPL HI 3D and a 219C 4000K as well as a MF01 219C 4000K as well as an EDC18 in the same guise…they all look very similar and somehow made the KR4 copy I received look a touch green. shrug I have a ton of different gels so it didn’t bother me much to add the minus green. Otherwise, in a vacuum, I’m sure for 90% of most flashaholics are fine with the way the KR4 performs out of the box. CRI babies nonwithstanding.
Here is a graph I screencapped from a poster in a past FW3A post…I don’t remember the poster name or when it was exactly…maybe can help everyone with some insight.
Any chance of the KR4 or similar battery/heat sink with a side switch?
Are there primers on the differences between the XPL Hi and HD?
Thanks!
The D4v2?
The HI is a factory dedomed version of the HD - HI has more throw, less lumens. The bin spec (V2, V3, V6, W2, etc.) is the rating of lumens output. The typically highest for a HI is V3, and for the HD V6. There are some V4 rated HI's, and W2 rated HD's around though.
Now an additional feature of the HI version is a smooth, nice beam - no yellow or green rings, consistent tint throughout. The XPL2's are almost exactly opposite with a terribly inconsistent beam.
I really like the newer HI V2 5D's, but even the V4 3C doesn't look bad. A 3C is typically towards the green side, but in a HI LED, dunno why but it looks pretty darn good. Think there are V2 3A's around as well. For CREE's, the A's and D's are always better than the B's and C's because they are less green.
This chart helps: https://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg
That is interesting your 219C FW3A has such good tint. I tested one and saw DUV about 0.003
Those graphs are not mine. I screencapped it from a post in a FW3A post and don’t remember when or who posted it but, considering all tests are different, it does give a good relative comparison between those two emitters on the same equipment.
For me using the same equipment, the FW3A FD2 is rosier than the 219C 4000K and my Fireflies E07 FA3 is rosier than the FD2. The 219C seems to vary quite a bit between batches.
I did a non-scientific test and left both lights on top ramp of “muggle” for maybe 10 minutes. (FW3A 219C & KR4 SST20 4K) The FW3A was strangely piping hot…as if it was on turbo for over a minute. I changed to a fresh battery and cleaned the connectors but it seems to be doing the same thing. The KR4, on the other hand, was luke warm. Has anyone experienced this with the FW on 219Cs or is it simply an emitter, efficiency and driver situation?
I think mass is also an issue. The KR4 is a bigger light with more metal in it. Plus it has heat sink fins.
It simply has more mass that is better able to sink the heat at any output than an FW3A.