Using turbo doesn’t somehow disable the light’s built-in LVP. There might be protected 18650s that could handle the drain from a D4 on high or turbo… but they will be rare and probably expensive. No protected 18350 will be able to handle the higher output levels without tripping the protection circuit.
I’m not even sure most protected cells will fit a D4. For kicks I checked if a Wowtac 26650 (flat top, protected) would fit my D4S and it was too long (wasn’t going to risk crushing something by forcing it).
Sorry, that is what I meant originally, current draw. I would rather have the cell protection trip and be annoying than damage an unprotected cell. If I can’t find one that could handle the current without damage.
18650 Battery Store has a Samsung 30Q with a 15A protection circuit. Still would not fit because it is listed at 68.64mm, which is a bit too long. I know you were talking about an 18350 but I haven’t seen many protected batteries be able to handle higher current.
I’ve noticed that most optics that have data from Carclo/Khatod/Ledil or whomever, always seem to have unfavorable results with the E series nichias. I wonder how much of this has to do with them being so thin and domeless, resulting in them sitting too far below the optics? Has anyone tried drilling (counter-boring) the mcpcb holes to see how the optical efficiency and beam change with a different focus?
Just ordered from Hank, with Warm White - SST20 3000K 95CRI. This will be my nightstand flickering Candle light. Thank you ToyKeeper for this awesome UI.
I’m not sure if there are any diffusers which fit, but ceiling-bouncing it can be nice sometimes too.
However, tail-switch lights in general are a little awkward while ceiling-bounced. The button isn’t accessible in that arrangement. So for a bedside light I usually go for something with a side switch instead.
TK, yes… it will be ceiling bounce in candle mode. I can see the utility of the side switch for tail standing, but I’m ok with the tail switch - no problem picking it up to adjust.