I take it in the top photo above, you meant “9080” for the label on the right. But they do look very close. The other thing about a control shot… is the angle of the sun. High noon versus horizon will yield different tints (neutral white vs. warm). But you’re right that there is also the matter of context subjectivity (the color of the object, its light reflectivity/absorption, and environment).
It’ll be interesting to see what emitter bins come down the road in the future. Imagine having 219B 9080 sw30 output tint at 50% greater efficiency!
I hope nobody minds if I ask here but is there anyone who would be interested in doing a mod on commission? I have an Acebeam EC35 II, Nichia 219C edition, I was tinkering with the reflector/centering ring trying to fix the donut hole and somehow the LED popped off. Not sure if it wasn’t soldered all that well, the LED diode came off the pad so I think it’s toast. I do have a spare XP-L HI 3D LED to swap in. My hands are just not steady enough to work on small electronics anymore. Acebeam said they’d fix it but I have to ship back to China; reliable shipping would cost more than the light is worth.
Again hope nobody minds me asking on this thread, thought I might make my own post but didn’t want to add clutter. Feel free to PM or reply with your price if you’re interested.
I’m lurking here a lot, but I’ve never put my mod here before as I don’t think they are worth mentioning.
However I’ve updated my Emisar D4S with FET+8+1 recently and found some weird/interesting behavior of AMC7135s.
Driver is running Anduril. This is crucial information for the story as some AMCs have problem with ramping on low PWM levels. I know that 7135 are different and the ones with claw logo shall be the best for flashlights. Well it depends…
I have bought few AMCs from different aliexpress shops in search for “claws”. Finally found some with number 1937. This is different from the ones that were used on original D4S driver. Emisar driver is using ones with number 1744. I have also “boats” with symbol 35R.
Assuming that boats are worse than claws I have put them on rev 1.1 of my driver (green from JLCPCB) and flashed it. Only issue with it was that boat need higher PWM level to start working and on floor ramp set to 1 it did not lighten LEDs at all. It was easy to fix by setting floor to 3 in Anduril.
Claws were saved for the rev 1.2 driver that I’ve ordered from OSHPark. The main difference between v1.1 and v1.2 is 1x7135 placement. I’ve moved it to have it on front side if I decide to have single-sided driver with FET+3+1. Logically it is still the same driver. After putting driver together and loading same software I noticed weird behavior. Those AMCs did not require same PWM level to work as boats, but I think that problem with 1937 is much bigger then with boats. Basically they do not behave consistent to PWM levels. I mean on lower PWM they are providing enough current to lighten LEDs, but when ramping we are expecting more and more current to run trough them. Nope, 1937 are not working this way. There is a dip in output current somewhere between ramp level 10 and 20. This is really disturbing as during ramping I could see power raising and suddenly LEDs were on lower level again for the moment. Same was observed when second N-channel was attached. To mitigate the problem ramp configuration would need to be changed to start at about level 20 so it is even worse than with boats.
What I’ve actually did to solve problem was replace N-channel with boats and use AMC 1744 from D4S driver for 1x7135. With this setup I’m not able to see any jumps during ramping.
I think 1937 can be seen in this chart from one of aliexpress user:
I got the same hotplate, but the heat up time is slowwwwwwww, like really slowwwwwww. I use it for drivers/PCB's as well but only for lower heat (~100C) below - still use a hot air gun on the PCB's from above.
Hhmm, I don't think it's hours and think it can go higher. Mine looks exactly the same as the one pictured above, which says UY-D220V on the front, but came with a 120V power cord.
16 mins? Hhmm, sounds faster than mine, boy, I gotta check.
I use a butane torch to heat the MCPCB from below but I don’t apply the flame directly. I hold the torch 10-15cm away to heat it more gently and it typically takes 60-90 seconds before the solder melts and the LED centers itself. I usually tin the pads for the leads so I can see when the solder melts and immediately remove the heat. After it melts, a quick, gentle tap on top of the LED (s) with a swab squeezes any excess solder out and its done.
I’ve had great success with this method on everything from E21a to SBT90.2. I’ve even reflowed the same emitter multiple times without any measurable (ceiling bounce) reduction in performance, which is acceptable to me. I’ve thought about trying the frying pan method or getting a hot plate, but since the $10 torch has served me well I continue to use it.