from off
I get failure to feed reliably if I dont press the EX piston down deep enough
I also get momentary on and off if I dont hold the EX piston down long enough
from on
I get failure to turn off, and I get low instead
I suspect caused by my switch press and release timing being too fast
that sounds like a good way to also move the contact ring closer to the piston edges
So there is a shallower travel to make contact… I think that is a good thing… imo the EX piston travel is longer than necessary for a crisp switch action
the EX piston travel is longer, more like a DAO trigger
the D piston feels shorter, more like a SA trigger
I used a skinny pin punch and went thru one of the anti rotate holes where the reflector centering device locates into on the pill….low level light and magnifying visor recommended
. More or Less what I’m seeing is not a mechanical contact issue… like the split ring is missing the signal ring on the driver… in my case it is NOT, or else it would or should have failures to turn on… and it should not take 2-3-4 hits before the light turns off in any mode… imho…
Edit: from the lii-100 listing on AE “Automatically identifies 1.2V Ni-MH / 3.7V Li-ion battery automatically. Charging mode for 3.85V b Li-ion and LiFePO4 batteries must be selected manually”
I’m not having issues with the switch at all on my EX11.2. There is a slight delay before ramping, but it’s very consistent for me. I’m using a protected 16340 though, which adds some length in the tube - I think it’s possibly a bit helpful there. My only concern so far is how quickly it gets warm at max. But no funny behaviors.
Of course, I don’t have a light meter to check if the output has variance as demonstrated by jon_slider
I read the whole thing… no mention of a repair, just replacing some lights solved some of the more severe issues, such as 24 hour battery drain. I had one of those, and yes, replacing solved that problem.
There is no reported fix for the lights that go to low instead of turning off.
[QUOTE=okwchin]The driver is only regulated between 1.7 and 3.1 volts. Anything above and below that the torch runs un-regulated. So running a NiMH, your running way below regulation, so your not getting full brightness, while on any rechargeable lithium, your getting a HUGE direct drive current. So accordingly, max on NiMH is disappointing, while Min on Lithium rechargeable is crazy bright.
The old D10 engine was regulated between 1.3 and 3.8 volts or something like that I vaguely recall from my testing. FAR more appropriate for the type of cells were using, and therefore produced far more predictable results. This D11.2 engine is just… annoyingly lacking in key finishing elements of the design.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=bedazzLED]OK, I’ve tried and tried to like these two lights but I have finally had enough. They have both been back and I have replacements. Although the battery drain is not the problem now, the lights are still just plain old flaky. The PD sometimes works, the shortcuts to hi/lo more often than not don’t, sometimes turning it off actually turns it on to its lowest setting instead off, ……
I love my EX10 and D10, but I’ll be stuffed if I’m going to spend any more time with these two lights. Nitecore is off the list for me now, even though these lights look good and are good when they work.[/QUOTE]
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my conclusions are
I like the v10 firmware without blinkies and lockout, and especially the D10 host, for its short crisp button response
the ex10 ti that started this journey for me, has a mushy button by comparison. I can cause failures to switch off, or on, or to be momentary on/off, if I press too fast or too shallow. otoh, the springs are not too stiff, I find it pleasant to use.
I find my EX11.2 buttons mushy and overly stiff by comparison.
There are failures to switch off, where I get low instead of off. From off, I sometimes get strobe or lockout when trying to turn on again…
The frequency of the switching off failures goes down if press more slowly and deliberately.
I no longer use 16340 LiIon, after seeing the runaway ramping, I switched to CR123.
CR123 drop to 5 lumens max output at 2.3v, which tells me any LiIon used should be protected, and or voltage monitored responsibly by an alert operator if using unprotected cells.
I expect 3 volt LiFeP0 4 will run regulated, unlike 3.7v LiIon
my EX11.2 have regulated output on CR123
I really like that they go down to 0.01 lumens low.
My D10 w sw45k is flawless in terms of function and button feel, using AA Eneloop. The low is 1 lumen, I wish it was lower.
My EX11.2 w 219b 3000k is a good nightstand light loaded w CR123, and the lowest level is more than low enough for my firefly needs
My EX11.2 w 219b 4500k is a fun little light, it may find a home in my car, loaded with CR123
Nice. Someone at pelican must be a flashlight guy lol. You can get your own epp foam and do the same if you already have a case. Cutting with a hot wire is not too difficult just don’t breathe it in!
