[review] Wurkkos DL40 diving light

“Great not-so-little diving light!”

Being a fan of Wurkkos lights like the WK20 and WK30, I gave the DL40 diving light a shot. I like diving lights because they’re pretty much guaranteed to be waterproof in case of rain, getting dropped into a pool, etc., whereas other “waterproof” lights might merely be water-resistant. This is a big light, a nice solid big light! It takes a pair of 26650s for lots (and lots and lots…) of runtime. Each cell is rated 5000mAH, which is spot-on in agreement with what my Opus says. Plus, the extra heft makes it shed heat quite well and not turn into a curling-iron if you leave it on turbo for too long. Underwater (as in diving), you’re talking about quite many gallons of active cooling.

DL40 in profile.

That said, the box that arrived was a nice locking-lid cardboard box lined with white foam. Inside were the light with cells inside, lanyard, 2-bay charger and usb cable, extra O-rings, and adapter-tubes in case you want to use 18650s in a pinch, as well as a multi-language user guide. You’re pretty much good to go at that point.


DL40 shipping box, just opened (top), and with goodies taken out (bottom).

First impressions are quite good. As usual, machining and finish are flawless. No sharp corners, edges, or points anywhere. Anodisation is a flawless semigloss black. Unlike other Sofirn/Wurkkos diving lights with smooth battery-tubes, the DL40 has large rectangular “treads” for extra grip. Given the thick lanyard rope with rubber sleeve, you’re not likely to lose your grip on the light, but the treads are there anyway. There’s a nice wide slot in the tailcap for the lanyard, ’though you’ll need some tool to help you along in pushing it through (toothpick to push, thread/wire to pull, etc.).

Four LH351D LEDs provide the light output, a nice neutral 5000K of creamy white goodness, the same LED that powers the WK30 and similar lights. Each LED in its own reflector will show a somewhat “flower-petal” pattern in the outer beam (spill), but the hotspot is perfectly circular. There’s a slight yellowish tinge in the corona, but it’s not objectionable, and in fact not even that noticeable except if you go white-wall hunting.

DL40 head, showing the 4 reflector-wells.

It has 4 levels, low/medium/high/turbo. The manual says they’re 300/820/2000/5000lm, respectively, and I have no reason to doubt it. Turbo lights up the room via ceiling-bounce like the room-lights and then some. Instead of a much-hated timed step-down as many lights have, the DL40 has on-board temperature regulation which only steps down the current to the LEDs if the sensed temperature is too hot.

The user-interface is simplicity itself: click on, click some more to cycle through the modes, click’n’hold to turn off. No blinkies, no secret modes, no fluff, just simplicity. Mode-memory means that the next time you turn it on, it’ll be in the same mode as what it was in when you last turned it off. If you’re underwater, you certainly don’t want to strobe yourself or anything, so this UI is perfect.

The pushbutton magnetic switch is not a through-hole, so there’s no chance of seawater or any water getting in through there. The tailcap and head both connect to the battery-tube with dual O-rings, each, so there’s little chance of water getting into the light that way. If the front bezel is removable at all, I haven’t been able to do it, so I’ll take it on faith that it’s adequately sealed. :innocent:

The light can be “locked out” by giving the tailcap a half-turn unscrewing, to keep parasitic drain from depleting the cells. That might take a year or two, but if you leave the light unattended for long periods (over the winter?), it’s a good habit to get into anyway.

Charging the cells initially via the included charger is a breeze, too. Pop in the cells, connect to a USB charger or even just a computer port, and let it go. The lights will indicate red while charging, green when done.


Charger, while still charging (red, top) and when finished (green, bottom).

Negatives? Can’t think of any. Slight battery-rattle if you shake the light really hard, that’s it, but it is a 2-cell light, so…

So, unlike a lot of diving lights with only one cell and limited runtime, the DL40 should keep going, and going, and going, with a pair of beefy 26650s powering it. It’s a nice big light with a good grip, that’s not limited to diving. Anywhere you’d need a light to be absolutely waterproof, the DL40 is a great option to have. Me likey! :laughing:


DL40 on its box (top), and compared in size to an SP10 (bottom).

Great review!

I’ve been thinking about getting a Wurkkos.

Thanks! I love diving lights in general far waterproofness as mentioned above, and the DL40 is the biggest and beefiest one I’ve seen. It’s like a diving version of an L2 or L6 in a sense. And 5000lm, yet! :open_mouth:

I thought my DV-S9 was a moose, running a single 26650, but the DL40 is killer. :laughing:

1 Thank

Oh, for a great Wurkkos light, try the WK30.

You’ll thank me later.

I have a new found appreciation for diving lights. My Sofirn SD05 is a great EDC light, with the added peace of mind of being IPX8 waterproof.

Thank you for the heads-up on the WK30, looks nice. I am seriously thinking about the DL40, too.

I thought a member had a Wurkkos for sale recently, but I can’t remember which model it is, and I can’t find the posting anymore. I remember being interested in it, hmmm.

Doesn’t jingle any bells about any WTS post, but yeah, the DL40 would be killer for keeping it at the ready in the house, in the car, etc., in case you want to really light up the area in any weather.

And with all that bulk, I doubt it’d step down any time soon even if kept cranked up.

Nb: when I say “in the car”, I mean in a bag that you’d take with you, not leave in the car 24/7. I never do that with any light, let alone one with a Li cell, and especially multiple cells.

But anyone who goes around “checking the fields”, damn, that’d be a great light to use. :laughing:

Based on your review, I ordered the DL40 today from Amazon.

I finally found the WTS DL40 thread, but I was a day late… LOL, as my luck would have it.

Hjeh, that light makes me want to take up diving, just to see how killer-bright it is underwater. :laughing:

Maybe I can just play with it in the bathtub or something in the meanwhile.

(Where’s Markus? He’d take it underwater…)

Woohoo! OP modded to finally add pix with clickable links.

Arrived today. Batteries are on the charger right now.

First impression are solid. Only one small issue (probably just my OCD), the battery mark on the tail cap does not line up with the button, the “hot” warning mark, and the Wurkkos branding mark.

The lanyard hole is just a single hole. That causes the lanyard to get in the way when trying to tail stand the torch, and it’s a rather thick lanyard to boot. I like it when there are two holes next to each other, oooops can’t believe I just said that :blush: . like on a Convoy C8+ for example. Otherwise typical Sofirn high quality feel and look.

Can’t wait for my evening walk to test it out.

This is my second diving light. Both have smooth bodies, not much grip to them. I find that odd for a tool that is designed for use in the water. Yes, I would use the lanyard, but some semi-aggressive texturing would be an added benefit, too …?

I’m not a diver, but presumably rough-textured things are a no-no as to not abrade hoses and the like.

The ’40 does have those treads on the battery-tube. They’re not grippy enough?

I also got the DL40 to review. Even for a non-diver, it really is a nice light. Those 4x LH351D put out a nice wall of beautiful light!

I have a few Wurkkos / Sofirn lights I’d be willing to part with. Wurkkos WK20S and Sofirn SD05 (which you mention already having) are a couple nice dive lights I have sitting around collecting dust. I also have a WK30 that rarely sees use… too bad, it really is a pretty neat light.

I didn’t think they were grippy enough. I was thinking some knurling like on the Convoy C8+ body would be ideal. But like you mentioned, rough textures are a no-no around hoses and the like. I didn’t think about that. good call.

Does this light have the same hold-down-for-off switch as the WK20? My muscle memory doesn’t like that “feature.”

I look at this light and think, what does it have that my Q8 doesn’t have? Similar output, similar battery life. But no ramping. Guess I’ll pass.

Yup, it’s a brief “hold for off”

I am a diver (and a fly fishing addict). The first rule in (both) these endeavors is to have everything strapped to your vest (or your “BCD” in diving- same thing). There is too much going on (over or under) water to test fate and a wrist strapped light isn’t an option diving. You indeed have a lot of hoses and stuff that has to be clear for safe use— so the light needs to be tethered and stowed out of the way until you are “down”.

We used my SD02 last December on a night dive. I borrowed my fly fishing tether to connect the light where if it got loose (and it did)- it dangled until you got hold of it. I probably would have lost that light without it being tethered to my BCD that dive. Just dropping out of the boat involves some stress on gear and you often have to “adjust” things after dropping in.

Oh, and the SD02 also has ONE (wide) tail notch which allows for a larger clip- a good thing for diving as I can see using a thicker tether and clip that my fly rig I borrowed has. Thankfully, it held the light and I didn’t have a hard “yank”. But I do recall coming out of the water and having the light dangling as it didn’t stay stowed under my BCD when I took it off to climb the boat latter.

Easier to grip. Lotta people don’t like sody-pop can lights for that reason. Mmm, yeah, okay, I can see that. I don’t mind either format.

It’s as waterproof as Hell, though.

Double O-rings everywhere. (My Q8’s single painfully-thin rubberband has this nasty tendency to stick out like a tongue, mocking me, that I have to tighten the head ¼-turn at a time while repeatedly tucking that “tongue” back in.)

Plus, no through-hole for any further potential water-ingress.

Nice “club-friendly” format like an old-timey Mag.

True, no niceties like the Q8’s UI, but it’s simplicity itself. If you’re underwater and trying to escape the Octopus People, you don’t want to light it up in moonlight then get into battery-check mode. Just click-click-click to whatever brightness you want.

Yeh, probably why a lot of those lights have that hourglass shape, too. Could wrap a thicker tether around the middle and not have it slide off.

My dive master on that dive had a simple, small light. He used it to point stuff out and to my surprise… he used strobing as a “gather” signal. Wow… strobing HAS a use after-all :stuck_out_tongue:

A lot of diving is hand signal based for communication under water. But when it’s dark and visibility drops to nothing (at least if not in a light’s beam)… strobing REALLY is a useful feature . Even with 10 or so divers (each with a light— so beams everywhere coming from a group spread out maybe 50-75 yards.)… we ALL easily saw that strobe.

This was especially good as another dive group “dropped” into our dive when we were about done. So with about 20 divers suddenly in the same locale, we 10 divers knew where our dive master was and were able to group-up (without confusion) for our accent.

Cool little tools and BTW that light went down to about 80 ft. And had zero leaks- another great Sofirn ligh!

Funny point on the hourglass design… reminded me of my days on the ranches I grew up on in Texas and New Mexico. When learning about saddle ediqate (at about 14 years old when working on horses became a serious endeavor)… you had to “strap” everything onto the saddle somewhere. Sounds simple in theory, but when you did it wrong you learned the hard way. You’d often lose it, or have it flailing about, or even have it under your crotch at the worst of times! It was truly an art in and of itself to figure out the “pack” for whatever time/trip you had ahead of you for the day. And the shape of whatever you were packing definitely helped so one tie could hold it.

I remember rounding up 2k sheep off about 5000 acre pastures in NM back then. You definately learned to pack a light load for that long, fast run. The last “pressing” of the sheep could have you doing 180 degree jumping turns with everything flailing about and no time to stop and pick anything up. Had to keep the pressure on the herd and stop for nothing until you got the sheep through that final gate into the pen (with much cursing involved). Of course, the next day was more work (shearing, or marking the animals), but we were usually glad to get off the horse and use our own legs :smiley: