Thanks guys.
With that info i believe there is something under the MCPCB, no way i can get it sitting flat on its own. Also feels very dry underneath pushing it around, but it could be a symptom of the foreign mass.
Ill get in touch with Neal. A new light would solve both my issues, i can deal with one stuck tailcap if the others are all ok, as much as it puts a damper on my “lego games”, bound to have atleast one 18650 version of my lights at any given time.
Edit. Thermal paste is not an issue for me, 20 years of overclocking im well versed and stocked
I have 2 FW3A SST20 new, was playing with them right out the box, and noticed that in lockout mode, a double click would activate a slightly higher mode, than the standard moonlight. Cool and useful, read that it’s a feature added to the firmware.
Then I went to ramp config and reconfigured to the factory standards (Floor N = 1 and Ceiling N = 21), just to make sure they were configured correctly.
And this double click higher mode in lockout disappeared from both flashlights after this reconfig. I want it back!
The Anduril version is not so new, I can’t check it, doesn’t factory reset with 13 clicks.
The voltage shown by BattCheck seems to indicate higher. For example, when the battery voltage is checked by the multi meter or the battery charger, either shows 3.87V. My FW3A shows 4.0V.
There is not much of discussion about BattCheck. I don’t think there is voltage calibration, either.
It is not big difference. However, I am curious to know what the other FW3A’s are doing.
Also, what does 4.0V from BattCheck mean? Does it mean like between 3.95V and 4.04V (rounded to the nearest tenth)? If so, 3.87V should show 3.9V.
Not sure about the FW’s, but on my D4S it blinks out 3.9 from 3.99 down to 3.90 and changes to 3.8 at 3.89. Might just be that one light, can’t really say.
They all vary to a certain degree. The same is true for NarsilM lights. I don’t think the voltage detection part of the Atiny85 is all that accurate. It’s a 15 year old design.
Each chip is consistent, though. You can rewrite the code and reflash the firmware with a correction factor to make the voltage readout very accurate. This obviously can’t be done in mass production so we are stuck with what we have.
Thank you very much for the information. The tolerance of +/-0.15V is exactly what my FW3A shows. I understand the limitations. It is still a nice feature.
I added voltage calibration to Anduril - wasn't that difficult to do. TK sounded interested in it, but not sure it went anywhere. I have a modeed Anduril from the Dec 2019 base of code, so doesn't have the new temp regulation.
Is there a chart/table/equation somewhere that shows how many lumens correspond to each step level? Is it damaging to the torch to set a ceiling of the ramp higher than step 130 (say around 1500lm)?
Lumen measurements would differ depending on emitter type and color temperature. As long as the temperature calibration is set correctly there should not be any risk of damaging the light.
I think they switched to a one piece plastic lens about a year ago. It works well. If you want to swap in a Carclo then you need to buy the glass lens seperate. I believe Neil was selling them.