First Impressions Nitecore EX10 Ti and EX11.2

I’m not having issues with the switch at all on my EX11.2. There is a slight delay before ramping, but it’s very consistent for me. I’m using a protected 16340 though, which adds some length in the tube - I think it’s possibly a bit helpful there. My only concern so far is how quickly it gets warm at max. But no funny behaviors.

Of course, I don’t have a light meter to check if the output has variance as demonstrated by jon_slider

Your Lucky… should go play the lottery… :wink: Yep the problems are real…

Lights not shutting off, UI getting wonky, Battery drainage, Ramping anomalies ect.ect.

. I go to the back of these threads and read towards the front for the good stuff…

Some of the posts mention repairing nitecore piston drive lights - I didn’t read all the way through, does anyone mention how? Might be of use.

I read the whole thing… no mention of a repair, just replacing some lights solved some of the more severe issues, such as 24 hour battery drain. I had one of those, and yes, replacing solved that problem.

There is no reported fix for the lights that go to low instead of turning off.

here are my selected quotes from that thread

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https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?312316&p=3771800&viewfull=1#post3771800

[QUOTE=okwchin]The driver is only regulated between 1.7 and 3.1 volts. Anything above and below that the torch runs un-regulated. So running a NiMH, your running way below regulation, so your not getting full brightness, while on any rechargeable lithium, your getting a HUGE direct drive current. So accordingly, max on NiMH is disappointing, while Min on Lithium rechargeable is crazy bright.
The old D10 engine was regulated between 1.3 and 3.8 volts or something like that I vaguely recall from my testing. FAR more appropriate for the type of cells were using, and therefore produced far more predictable results. This D11.2 engine is just… annoyingly lacking in key finishing elements of the design.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=bedazzLED]OK, I’ve tried and tried to like these two lights but I have finally had enough. They have both been back and I have replacements. Although the battery drain is not the problem now, the lights are still just plain old flaky. The PD sometimes works, the shortcuts to hi/lo more often than not don’t, sometimes turning it off actually turns it on to its lowest setting instead off, ……

I love my EX10 and D10, but I’ll be stuffed if I’m going to spend any more time with these two lights. Nitecore is off the list for me now, even though these lights look good and are good when they work.[/QUOTE]

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my conclusions are
I like the v10 firmware without blinkies and lockout, and especially the D10 host, for its short crisp button response

the ex10 ti that started this journey for me, has a mushy button by comparison. I can cause failures to switch off, or on, or to be momentary on/off, if I press too fast or too shallow. otoh, the springs are not too stiff, I find it pleasant to use.

I find my EX11.2 buttons mushy and overly stiff by comparison.
There are failures to switch off, where I get low instead of off. From off, I sometimes get strobe or lockout when trying to turn on again…

The frequency of the switching off failures goes down if press more slowly and deliberately.

I no longer use 16340 LiIon, after seeing the runaway ramping, I switched to CR123.

CR123 drop to 5 lumens max output at 2.3v, which tells me any LiIon used should be protected, and or voltage monitored responsibly by an alert operator if using unprotected cells.

I expect 3 volt LiFeP0 4 will run regulated, unlike 3.7v LiIon

my EX11.2 have regulated output on CR123
I really like that they go down to 0.01 lumens low.

My D10 w sw45k is flawless in terms of function and button feel, using AA Eneloop. The low is 1 lumen, I wish it was lower.

My EX11.2 w 219b 3000k is a good nightstand light loaded w CR123, and the lowest level is more than low enough for my firefly needs

My EX11.2 w 219b 4500k is a fun little light, it may find a home in my car, loaded with CR123

I think the ramping UI is very cool.

The Fix……Need a 15mm FW3 version driver that you can hand fit tightly (since it’s a press fit driver) to about 14.7mm IIRC……

update on my EX11.2 lights switching, and output regulation

since I stopped clicking like a madman I have not had any unintended results with my EX11.2

It has turned on and off as requested. No accidental low modes instead of off, now that I have learned to use the switch deliberately.

To me, they are great little CR123 lights, nice stable regulated output…
now that I have learned not to use 16340.

Easiest light to mod to 219b, of any I have done, with a great beam.

example of the Total Package… clip, glow marker, and a firefly of 0.01 lumens… tics all my indoor and nightstand boxes

Happy Mothers Day! :slight_smile:

some conversion output comparisons, the battery is not fresh, Im most focused on the percent change between LED options…

ex11.2 #1
stock xpg
cr123 @ 2.91v
low <0.005
max 145

shaved 2700k lh351d
cr123 @ 2.91v
low 0.01
max 116
20% less bright than xpg

219b 4500k 9080
cr123 @ 2.91v
low <0.005
max 138
5% less bright than xpg

219b 3000k 9080
cr123 @ 2.91v
low <0.005
max 106
27% less bright than xpg

there are a few EX11.2 left on ebay still…

and fwiw, I found a fantastic old review that is extremely informative
here are some exerpts:

Good news about the EX10 driver

It runs Regulated Output on 16340 LiIon!!! so happy

modded the LED to High CRI 219b 4500k 9080 sw45k and output tripled, now
1 lumen low
225 max
60 gram carry weight

did a mockup with some pick and pluck:
(pic is a link)

another option:
(pic is a link)

Nice. Someone at pelican must be a flashlight guy lol. You can get your own epp foam and do the same if you already have a case. Cutting with a hot wire is not too difficult just don’t breathe it in!

Whoa… :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face: :money_mouth_face:

!https://i.pinimg.com/originals/f7/32/5e/f7325efa823d31c6a00c7bc8b55229db.gif !

Got my second EX11.2 inserted brand new Surefire Red 123 the third on/off cycle it stayed on :person_facepalming: NO MORE!!! :rage:

Completely wiped the BAD little nuggets off both sides of this POS driver and mounted up a filed down 14mm to 12mm FETDD moppydrv. (I have 12mm Anduril drivers coming from Lexel)

. Sealed the bare contacts on both side of the pcb contact plate that used to be the driver with black epoxy paint, added the Golden Spring for easy smooth piston action, cheap $1.50 SS Clip and a 50.2 3volt emitter… just for gig’s

Almost 1900lm at T/O 1600lm at 30sec. and really HOT… lowest level is “moon” 4-5lm.

Very responsive piston/driver re-action zero failures to Turn Off

sorry to hear your EX11.2 driver was flaky
congrats on your hot rod driver upgrade

if the Anduril drivers had AA compatibility and firefly lows, I might be tempted

Pelican 1075, just 40 bucks on ebay

:+1:

thanks for the nudge in the right direction :slight_smile:

Sweet………. :+1:

Even with the problems reported for the EX11.2 it was too interesting a light for me to pass up, so after finding some rechargeable 3v batteries…

And replacing the emitters with sw30, sw35, and sw45k….

And adding trits so I can find them in the dark (and because I just like them)…

I have used them for a few weeks now and have found that if I do a hard press of medium length I don’t have any unexpected results. Short clicks, no matter how hard may lead to undesired results. The same for light clicks. The only failures that I have had have been when I didn’t do both of these things.