What did you mod today?

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
8965

Thanks to contactcr for the warm LED :+1:

My first reaction was WOW! :slight_smile:
cant wait for Dark!

this completes a triumvirate of Nitecore PD EX11.2

they have excellent firefly levels <0.01 lumens, and stable regulation on CR123

8966

Is there an easy cheat sheet of what can be reflowed on what package size or based on previous emitter?

8967

There are two main package sizes: 3535 and 5050. There are also some 3030 emitters out there (notably Osram White Flat) and 4040 (Luxeon V and a different line of Osram white flats). Current modern emitters I can think of:

  • 3030:
    • Osram White Flat 1, 2 (CSLNM1.TG and CSLPM1.TG)
  • 3535:
    • Luminus SST20
    • Cree XP-E series
    • Cree XP-G2
    • Cree XP-G3
    • Cree XP-L (Hi)
    • Cree XHP35 (Hi)
    • Samsung LH351D
    • Nichia 219 (B and C)
    • Lumileds Luxeon V2
  • 4040:
    • Lumileds Luxeon V
    • Osram Boost HL/HX (CULNM1.TG, CULPM1.TG)
  • 5050:
    • Cree XM-L2
    • Luminus SST40
    • XHP50(.2)
  • 7070
    • XHP70(.2)
  • 90mm?
    • SBT90.2
    • MT-G2
8968

As the name implies XHP70 is 7070 not 5050

8969

One more addition: the Lumileds Luxeon V2 is 3535

Note for nick779: the 3535 name means “3.5mm x 3.5mm”, 5050 means “5.0mm x 5.0mm” and so on. Generally, most LEDs with the same footprint dimensions (eg, 3535) are swappable. However, there are some LEDs out there that only have 2 pads instead of 3 (they’re “missing” the central thermal pad). These are not common in our high-output LEDs though, are are generally found in low output ones. An example that we deal with would be the Nichia E17A (a 1.7mm x 1.7mm LED). And a couple (though again, rare) have a central thermal pad that is not electrically neutral. The only one that comes to mind is the Osram Black Flat.

8970

Cool deal, thanks guys.

I have a few MCPCBs with 219Cs that I might practice on before trying to reflow a warmer XP-L2 or high CRI 219b/c to my E05.

8971

Slightly different twist on a Novatac 18350 mod.

I’m more confident in my soldering skills than my metalworking, so instead of a brass bar, I decided I would solder 5 small pogo pins together as a signaling contact. Cheap and effective, bought 100x pogo pins for $11-ish.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q8JILQ

8972

nice 18350 mod
I like the bezel too :+1:

8973

Thanks Jon! I’ve been racking my brain on how to easily do this

8974

Nice idea :+1:

8975

Thanks!!

8976

I like it as well. :slight_smile:

8977

I have 17670 Novatac body without the spring. Need to find some other solution. Maybe brass 0.5mm thick sheet with bent tips for contact.

8978

Made a S2+ shorty with a Nichia 219B 3000K LED (from azhu) and a Convoy V.2 driver. Added a 470 ohm bleeder resistor for the aqua (mix of green and blue 0805 SMD LEDs) lighted tailcap. The tailcap takes just 0.15 milliamps so lasts almost a year on the 18350 Keeppower 1200mAh battery.


8979

brass bar mod info here:

8980

Nothing too spectacular, but I was able to reflow a 4500k 219B into my Wuben E05 this weekend.

The only thing I had issues with was tapping the excess solder out. Once the MCPCB was hot enough I slid the old emitter off and tried to tin the pads just a little with some thin, rosin core 63/37.

Then I let the board and hot plate cool to ~75C(to slowly heat the emitter up), placed the emitter on the board and reheated to 220C.

Emitter centers itself, I tap it, solder balls pop out and I get some excess at the middle of each side of the emitter. Problem is that it sucks back under the emitter after a few seconds. Id imagine thats not great for thermals and consistent focus. What I ended up doing is placing a roll of tape next to the hot plate and placing a silicone backed ruler half on the roll of tape and the tip on the emitter to put gentle, even, centered pressure on it as it cooled. I cleaned the dome with some rubbing alcohol after but I didnt know if there was a better way to do this.

8981

I wouldn’t apply pressure as it cools. Get rid of the excess using a toothpick or something to flick it away. It will settle on its own

8982

Tap harder. You probably have still too much solder between pads and LED.

How’s the beam of the E05 with the 219B?

I have the E05-I with Samsung Emitter. Guess the 219B would make the spot even smaller, so I’m hestitant.

8983

I was giving it a good solid thunk, but I wasnt quick or dexterous enough with the toothpick. The datasheet stated to not keep it at 200C for more than 2 minutes and up to 260C for 1 additional minute. I didnt want to damage the emitter so I was trying to be quick.

Overall, the beam is ever so slightly narrower, but the spill seems brighter and more usable. There are some minor beam artifacts in the hotspot, but nothing noticeable in real world use.

8984

I’ve experienced the same issue as you when tapping the LED and having the solder creep right back under the LED. That seemed to happen when trying to remove the last bit of extra solder.

I now hold the LED down with a cotton swab and then swipe away at the extra solder with a toothpick. I split the toothpick to make the end smaller and flatter to help with the swiping.

Congrats on your reflow! And if you’re concerned about the extra solder, just heat it back up again to give it another shot (quickly).