Would you purchase a 14500 version FW1A "mini" if it existed?

Since there seems to be quite a few concerns about reliability and size…

In the FWXX series, demand exploded for Anduril on a compact, stylish 18650 flashlight. And so coming on the heels of the FW3A, Lumintop created the EDC18 - a compact 18650 side-switch running Anduril. It eliminates any problems of the dual-tube layout, and gains button LEDs. For this, it sacrifices the sleek FW3A styling and the idea of having a tail e-switch.

Lumintop already has a compact 14500 / AA light similar to the EDC18, the EDC05. It just doesn’t run Anduril. What if we convinced them to make a version that runs Anduril? That shouldn’t be too far of a stretch. Sure, it wouldn’t have the iconic FWXX styling.

I guess that’s the question… are we after the styling? Or is it more about having a nice, compact 14500/AA running Anduril?


Actually, it’s Sofirn that’s trying to run that racket.

My wishlist

tailswitch
screw on or fully captive ring clip
AA compatible
Single High CRI LED
capable of Firefly 0.01 lumens

Not sure we need a new light, maybe just a new driver to fit existing AA lights…

imagine the number of AA Tools out there, that could be enhanced with an AA capable Anduril driver…
DreamTime… LOL

I agree with the first few posts about size. That was my first thought. I ‘might’ buy one but maybe not. My enogear AA suits me just fine (though a captive clip would be nice). I don’t what the benefit would be in having andruil in a AA light. Smaller edc’s don’t need complicated UI imo (having said that I hated the Tool UI) Unless I got talked into it with reviews and hype I probably wouldn’t buy.

I like 14500s a lot, I’d for sure buy at least 2 of those.
Even better that you plan on doing it with a single LED.

Not sure how well the FW design will scale down… and do we really need ramping on a AA light?

Even Tools don’t have a good enough clip.
My DQG Slim AA clip is pretty good, but it has still been ripped off a couple times. Of course, a clip can be screw-on but get all sorts of bent out of shape… I’ve several times had to take the tail cap off my D25C Ti to bend the clip back, knowing each time it’s weaker than before.

Personally, I’d love the AA compatible, but am willing to lose it for the sake of LVP with Li-Ion, if it really proves that hard to do multi-chemistry LVP.

I would buy a couple but only if relatively slim and supports NiMH (I don’t care for Li-ion in lights this small). Doesn’t have to have Anduril either, ramping would be nice but shortcuts to moon and turbo are essential IMO.

Basically I want an updated Nitecore PD light :blush:

Can’t talk myself into buying any FWxy light. I’d try to collect them-not good with so many variations. But I’m curious how it would look like, so my best wishes for this project.

I like AA lights, if only to keep around for emergency use in case I’m out and about and dont have a way to charge my 18650 lights. I can always buy a cell at the store if necessary. I rarely actually use AA lights anymore, since getting my lumintop hl3a. When I’m out on the town or for other occasions when I want to have my light be as small as possible and not noticeable, I go for an Aaa light.

It all comes down to size to ability ratio, and what I’m using it for. The HL3A hits all the right spots for me since it’s so small, thin, and uses 18650 cells. The form factor, even though I wasn’t too sure about it before buying, has proven to be perfect. Putting the LEDs on the side of the battery tube and the switch and driver on that same end was IMO the perfect solution to the tube-in-a-tube switch contact and girth problem. The HL3A is much smaller in diameter than the FW3A, with the very tip of head being the only thing that is as large in diameter. It tapers down from that point to .875”. The thing really does disappear in a pocket.

The fact that it is still an ‘end switch’ design makes it easy to find the switch. The magnet makes it super useful as a work light, more useful than a traditional cylindrical flashlight because you can aim it 360° while stuck to something magnetic.

Now, if they designed a light like the HL3A but scaled down to take AA/ 14500 and running a simple ramping U/I like a stripped down anduril with double click to turn on (one click does nothing) and a small (no bigger than 19mm) head using only 2 LEDs instead of 3, then I would probably buy that. It could be TINY if built that way.

The advent of super minimalist LI-ION chargers with flexible leads and magnets makes it easy to take a charger with you. I would rather have that than a built in charger that adds to the size of the light.

And sometimes when carrying aa or aaa lights I just throw an extra battery in the other pocket for peace of mind.

YES.

Ramping is awesome...

I don't spend much on AA flashlights, but if I did, I would probably get a FW1A "mini".

I'm just willing to spend a lot more on nice 18650 or 21700 lights.

Yes, actually. Neal sent me a CAD file of a blank PCB and wanted to know if I could make firmware for it. But, um, a blank PCB can’t run code… and even just from the PCB I could tell the light would be too big to be worth making. I tried to explain the issues, but nothing ever happened. Perhaps that was just the usual lost-in-translation thing, but as far as I could tell, Lumintop wanted someone to send them complete schematics for the entire light… and may not have been aware that everyone involved had been gone for a long time.

Can’t some components go to the MCPCB?

I’m assuming it would have to be a completely new design in order to be coherent at a smaller size.

If anyone is interested in actually making it happen, I’d suggest putting together a 3D model for the host, and talking privately with Hank of Intl-Outdoor to work out details.

For a 14500 light (especially if it needs to work with AA too), the ideal designs tend to be long and thin… close to the shape of a tube light, but perhaps with a slightly flared head and tail. The tail switch signal could be transferred with a ribbon instead of an entire inner tube, to reduce diameter. A single LED in a reflector can easily be throwy enough without making the head wide. And the clip, of course, should ideally be a unidirectional deep carry type which runs parallel to the tube, similar to an Olight S2 (but perhaps captive instead of clip-on).

With a narrow diameter, it might be necessary to have a tall or stacked driver… especially if it needs AA support. That’s usually fine though. It worked nicely in the L3 L10, and in the EagleTac D25A.

great ideas
and if the new AA Anduril driver can be put into a D25a Ti host that would be awesome too

Only if it works with AA.
I would use it with Eneloop AA.

If it doesn’t work with Eneloop AA… I would not buy it.

The D25A has a reverse clicky, no?

I guess it would need more than the driver, it would need a bigger mod to make it work, to make the connection between the tailswitch (that would need a change) and the driver!
But it would be a nice form factor flashlight!

I don’t have anything in the works and have concluded that Neil is, at least sometimes, overwhelmed. I agree, Hank may be a better resource.

Could you just imagine a “baby” KR4 powered by one 14500? I picture a reflector design with a single white primary emitter LED and three RGB secondary LEDs; running Andúril - of course.

If that little fantasy light were to actually become a reality, I might have the perfect replacement for my beloved NC D11.2s with trit pistons.