Sofirn SD03 diving light, first thoughts

The SD03 just went on sale (closing out old stock?) at Ali

$12.04 plus $1.16 shipping (which I guarantee will be slow, as I’ve had orders stuck somewhere between China and California for a long, long time)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32825380664.html?mp=1

PS. it appears they don’t combine shipping if you order more than one. They do pop up what claims to be a discount coupon if you buy.
I couldn’t make that coupon thing work at all (Firefox). But if you want several, you might try buying one, and see if you get a $2 coupon “for your next order”

Better be quick as I’m grabbing 50 out of 60 left

The first 4 shipping options Ali offers for NL are free. Remember, you don’t have to be a diver to buy this light. I think these are great outdoor “all weather” lights. Something I would not say about a flimsy “tactical” zoomie. And the size and weight of this thing should be quite reassuring when walking the dog at night.

Just grabbed one. Thanks for the heads up!

:open_mouth:
Are they for divers?

Are you joking?

I’m not entirely sure what purpose my customers use them for.

No, I resell them :slight_smile:

Ya know, BLF ought to try to qualify as a dealer/middleman to capture some of the discounts offered to resellers.
Just sayin’.

Funtastic wrote in the SD05 thread:

Burns a bit, don’t it? But hey, “the more you pay, the more it’s worth.”

More discussion of the SD03 continues in that SD05 thread.

Ah, I missed the triangle indicating a pulldown menu for shipping options, but they’ve preselected the least expensive for my orders (Singapore Post, $1.16 for a single light)

I should mention that price excludes shipping price and only express is available so it’s only cheap for large quantities.

As a reseller I hardly get much of a discount but because this item is discontinued it’s a different story. Prices usually equal a group buy price

What do y’all think about putting a little bit of lubricant into the grooves of the switch ring, to hopefully keep grit out?
One problem I can foresee with this design is cleaning out the moving parts eventually.

Had given it some thought. It’s a double sided dilema. Grease will trap sand and other foreign material. Having nothing should be easier to clean out, providing the moving spaces don’t wedge the particles. But the feel is not very smooth (slack).

Be very careful removing the magnetic switch as there’s a tiny spring and ball bearing underneath that’s easy to lose. The spring shot out and took me 30min to find

I guess I’m waiting for someone to disassemble the switch section of the light and show me how it’s done.

Unscrew the head. Put the light IN a towel, completely covered up. You don’t need to see the for the next step.
Note exactly how the magnetic control ring is made, so you know the front vs. back. It’s not quite symmetrical. Not SURE this is critical. I did not try it both ways. but the magnets need to align with internal sensors to work right. If you get it wrong, simply reverse the assembly position.

Slowly rotate and pull the magnetic ring toward the front. At some point the ring will clear the spring loaded ball bearing and they will pop out, both most likely. This is why you need it covered, to catch the parts.
Keep pulling and wiggling. The ring now needs to slide over the 2 O-rings behind the front threads to come off. You can remove them beforehand if you don’t want this little bit of extra resistance. Either way is fine.
That’s it.

The ring has 2 magnets in cut slots. The spring goes in the hole with the bearing on top. I DO plan to dive the light so I packed the spring hole and magnet holes with silicone grease. I’ve had some cheap dive lights like this that used low carbon steel and the spring/bearing/magnets all rusted out in a year. It’s essentially impossible to fully flush out all the saltwater from these deeply buried crevices after a dive.

Silicone grease in the spring + bearing hole helps hold it in place for assembly. Slide on the magnetic ring (remember orientation) > when it bumps up against the bearing compress the spring with a thumbnail and slide it fully on. If you don’t feel completely confident of your skill, or you have not greased the spring + bearing you might do this inside a big paper bag so they don’t get away with a slip.
Replace and lube O-rings if removed. Check for any kind of lint or debris that might compromise water tightness. Replace the head. Put in a battery and test.

One thing to note is, don’t lube the front threads of the battery tube. There’s no retaining ring giving a good connection and it relies on clean threads. Lube orings well but keep it off the threads. Had 5pcs start flickering and couldn’t figure it out for awhile.

Ended up grabbing 30pcs instead of the previously mentioned 50.

Addendum to my instructions on the magnetic ring removal. The [battery tube] @PiercingTheDarkness mentions is the long piece that the battery is installed in, NOT the front part you need to remove to take the magnetic ring off. The front threads on the battery tube are not anodized.
The part in front of that has anodized threads and you can grease it well, and probably ought to.

Great information. Thanks y’all.

Did a burn test on high in a tub of water. A 2400mA (tested, not protected) cell lasted 90+ minutes on high. At the end it started blinking for a bit, then simply went out. Seems to be an inherent low voltage cut-off. Cell measured 2,91v when checked.