Tesla's "Secret" Battery

I didn’t know that this was a similar problem with the Prius. Thanks for letting me know. Hopefully Toyota & Tesla have done some focus group testing & learned about this usability flaw. Electronically mapped physical controls would be possible.

BTW, Elon Musk launched a huge cooperative to have many locations around the country install charging stations. It’s a very long way to go for a comprehensive coverage, but then so was PAVED ROADS! That took a long, long while. Many people tried to stick with horses. People forget…

8500 miles so far. From Tesla Warranty Protection (2024)
They all come with a 4 year/50,000 mile warranty
you can upgrade to a 8 years/120,000 miles
Body Rust Limited Warranty: 12 years or unlimited miles

It is well known that newer vehicles (made in the last 5 years) are designed to be throw away. They are engineered for efficiency, not longevity. Engine tolerances are increased to reduce friction inside the engine (and lighter oil, 0W-20 for example) so they wear out faster (start burning oil). They use complicated and expensive cvts instead of torque converter automatics or manuals. Again, more efficient. All the plastic parts (intake manifolds, valve covers, oil pans, throttle bodies, breather hoses, etc) may get you to 125k without cracking or warping, but maybe not. They’re putting the ECU and PCMs in the engine compartment now so if you get in a fender-bender and damage it, they total your car because it’s crazy expensive to fix. Not to mention all the computers controlling the interior/exterior lights, windows, seats, gauges, radio, safety stuff, stability control, brakes etc. New cars are nice and tech is cool, but I don’t like automakers forcing you to buy a new car every ten years because it’s really expensive to repair off warranty, or is falling apart. I think Tesla offering such a generous warranty is nice. I wonder what the limits are?

And especially nowadays that to be “green”, cars are being built with biodegradable(!) parts, panels, etc.

Mercedeses from the ’90s had biodegradable wiring. Yah, after a few years in the steamy hot under-hood environment, the insulation starts to crack open and crumble, letting now-nekkid wires to short out.

Wunderbar…

Oh yeh, I used to keep a set of plastic funnels for additives in the gas-tank, etc., and inside the car, not even in sunlight, they turned from a nice red flexible plastic into pale sickly pink “stuff” that crumbled at the slightest touch.

Now imagine your airbox or similar goodies behaving the same way.

Plastic has come a long way and is better than ever, but living at 150 or 200 degrees or more for years takes a toll. Not to mention being exposed to hot coolant, old acidic oil, solvents, and gasoline. If a mechanic or DIY’er isn’t careful, it’s easy to crack a screw hole or mounting point. That can cause vaccum leaks or coolant leaks or oil leaks. Hit a big bump and you might crack that plastic pull pan or transmission pan. I get lighter and cheaper, but should be better…

Right on. I was super impressed to discover my car has Cabin Overheat Protection, so if it’s cooking in a sunny parking lot, it will protect itself by running the A/C just enough to not become a solar cooker and destroy shit. That might have been a feature added after I bought it… Oh, and you can ‘vent’ the windows from the phone app instead if you don’t think it will rain.

I didn’t know what I thought about them taking all my buttons and putting them in a computer, but it only took about 10 seconds before I loved it. The stuff like temp control and radio volume is right on the driving screen. You can simply swipe the icon right to increase and left to decrease. Genius. And even the ‘deepest’ settings are just inside tabs. It’s not at all like an iPhone where the settings screen leads to more screens.

As for the screen, it did not power on one time. I was nervious, but I simply put the car in drive and was impressed everything worked and it was safe to drive home. After I got home I read how to reboot the computer if that ever happens again. It’s just pushing the break and two buttons on the steering wheel.

Actually, those with more than one car might be the ideal case to own an EV. Consider replacing one of your vehicles, and leaving the other as the “getaway” car. If you’re gone for the weekend in the gas car, the wife can take the EV. Or whatever. Yes there are all kinds of trip planning things that have already been mentioned, but it’s just not as convenient as refueling a gas-powered automobile.

In my area, I feel like I’m in the minority as a single-car family. Almost every adult I know has 1 car per adult in the family.

I didn’t know the Primes had this issue. My (2005) Prius kind-of has the issue, but it also has extensive steering wheel controls. So I almost never use the center touch-screen, and especially not while driving. If it’s hot, I set the air to vent just from the dash before I drive. If it’s cold, I set it for dash/feet, again before driving. Defroster and windshield vent are toggled on the steering wheel, as is the recirculate setting. I can fully navigate the radio from the steering wheel. The biggest annoyance is that to pull up the GPS, I have to hit an “I agree” button on the screen before I get the map - some safety warning about using it while driving. It would be safer without that screen!

For road trips over 266 miles, yes, it is not as convenient. As you mentioned, taking the gas vehicle makes sense. Too bad our Ford Fusion has shit for power compared to the Tesla :frowning:
But don’t think of recharging like pumping gas. You don’t need to find a charger when the battery gets low. I haven’t had our car to a charger in over a year. We just plug it into the garage outlet once every few weeks when we get home. We get the notification it’s done charging before we even go to bed, but we do nothing and just unplug it in the morning when we come out to the garage to drive it.
So yea, charging stations don’t need to be part of your life with electric. I sure don’t miss standing out in the F*ing heat or F*ing cold and trying to tell a half-broken touch screen that I don’t have a rewards card, want to use credit not debit, and then enter my zip code. And then decline the car wash. :person_facepalming:

This reminds me of a forum discussion I read one time about the Jeep Grand Cherokee. People were upset because their infotainment system quit working, and thus there was no way to run the heater. And the dealerships didn’t have the parts in stock; long waits.

Actually, I see nothing wrong with cars feeling like fancy tech gadgets.

The real problem is when fancy tech gadgets designers make unnecessary functional compromises to follow a trend.

Touch screens are functional compromises. In some applications, like smartphones, those compromises are a very worthwhile tradeoff to enable what is otherwise not possible. Smartphones need to fit a lot of features in a very small package. That includes a flexible interface, and they need to get your inputs out of the way when you’re not actually inputting in order to maximize screen real estate.

Cars, on the other hand, have room for tactile controls. They don’t need to make the compromise of putting commonly used controls on a touch screen. Unfortunately, it’s probably going to continue to be common not just because its trendy, but because I suspect we’re at the point where a touch screen is cheaper than the individual parts plus assembly and wiring labor of dedicated controls. And if there is already going to be a screen in the car for a backup camera, and if it’s going to be a touchscreen for more complex functions like navigation, then it becomes easy to look at removing buttons as a cost-saving exercise, not a user interface optimization.

That said, it should be observed that the study linked above was specifically about distracted driving. It compared using a touch screen to focusing entirely on driving. It didn’t compare using a touch screen to doing the same task using dedicated controls. I’m sure the latter will affect driving performance less, but it will have some effect.

That said…weren’t we talking about batteries?

Reminds me of how vehicle tech puts a hurt on the consumer. My cars are both almost 20 years old and easy to work on (mostly). No need to go to a dealer or “factory trained” technician since my Dad was a mechanic for almost 30 years. Aside from major work requiring engine or transmission removal, etc or needing special tools/equipment, we do work ourselves. Now for modern cars made after 2015 or 2017, it’s become increasingly difficult for the DIY because it’s all computers and drive by wire and software controlled electric motors for steering, AC, ABS, any of the 20 airbags, stability control, tpms, suspension, cameras, radar, etc. All controlled by software. Any work you do on those safety systems or adjacent systems that may affect the systems has to be tested, checked and any warning lights reset or systems calibrations done by the dealers since they usually hold the software and tools/test equipment from the car manufacturer. The farmers have been hit hard by this too when they were encouraged (forced) to upgrade their tractors, combines, harvesters, etc to newer ones. They got fancy sophisticated machines with fancy sophisticated computers that only dealers (John Deere, IH/Ford, Case) had access to. If a part broke or some th ing went wrong, the only way to get it fixed amd corrected was to take it to the dealer, wait for them to get to it, then pay big bucks for them to re flash a computer or reset or calibrate a motor, actuator, sensor, etc. That’s the price we pay for our tech convenience and safety. Before personal computers became a cheap, easily accessible thing, IT was an obscure profession confined for big companies. Now IT techs are everywhere and big business.

The problem isn’t that it’s alien technology, the problem is companies like John Deere, Ford, etc, have been fighting for years to claim you have no RIGHT to repair “their” copyrighted system, even after you “bought” it. The movement to undo what they have done to us is called “Right to Repair”, have a look into it. The real problem is they have already won a legal war over the years to say you can buy their stuff, but you never really own it.

Yep. Like you don’t buy software anymore, but “rent” it (SAAS, software as a service).

Even cars with mandated OBD tek, you have the generic standard codes, but also mfr-specific codes that your corner mechanic doesn’t have access to (“proprietary”). There was some fight about that, not quite sure how it all shook out.

I was annoyed with the TPMS system on my car, because you rotate the tires and it doesn’t get clued in as to which tire is which unless you “relearn” it. Slightly older model-year, you used to be able to bap the DIC, it honks the horn, then you go around the car and lower the air-pressure one by one so it knows which tire is which. Then in newer cars you “had to” get a… crap, can’t recall the name of it… the GM diagnostic doodad for a few hunnert bux. But, aha, I only later found that there are cheap (15-20bux) TPMS relearn tools that do that for you, just hold it next to the tire to make the sensor squeal like a pig, and the ’puter then reads which one is which by which one’s doing the squealing.

And yeah, I know the big fight, at least with Deere, about simple stoopit sensor failures, that cost the farmer bigtime. Not only the fees to the roving tech who might get to it in a week or three (reminiscent of the circuit-court judges in old-timey westerns), but also the down-time all that time while the equipment’s out of commission. A shade-tree mechanic could’ve/would’ve diagnosed the problem, bought a new sensor, and had it popped in and the equipment back in service in a day or less.

Thankfully only once, I had the infotainment screen just show the frame (border, edges, dividers, etc.), but not the data. Wtf?? The buttons all worked to turn the heat up, but I couldn’t see what #degrees it would be set to, or the time, outside temp, nothing. Next time I started the car it was fine. Again, wtf?

After learning the layout of the panel, I could go for the recirc button, AC button, fan speed, etc., just fine. Thankfully those weren’t (yet) integrated to touchscreen functions. But forget about playing t00nz, because all those controls were via the pushwheel.

(Wonder if Beamers still have iDrive. Heard that was loathed by quite many.)

The farmers, the resourceful and fearless ones, resorted to black market software to fix their farm equipment themselves. JD has tried really hard to keep their software proprietary, but there are those willing to pirate it. Turns out it’s not too hard to do the resets or recalibration, you just need the software and a laptop pc to do it. It was still expensive to get the bootlegged software, but cheaper than the dealer and lots faster. As far as mfg. specific PIDs, the commercially available scan tools are able to read most of those, but you still have to buy the rights to it and subscription (SAAS). But those scan tools are still $5000-$15,000 Verus, Solus) not including the extra $800 or more for the add-on and PIDs diagnostic ability.

Yep, God bless ’em, every one.

The more they try to tighten their grip, the more that slips through their fingers.

Worst they could do is void any warranty, but they’d have to show/prove “unauthorised” access.

I heard a story on the radio about the repair cost of high-tech, “safe” cars. One car owner was shocked to learn that their cracked windsheild cost $800 to replace because the safety cameras (or sensors, don’t remember exactly) had to be re-calibrated along with that. And they had several different, but similar examples.

Makes me never want to buy a new car again without getting medical coverage for it.

This seems to apply to many cars with automatic braking, lane-assist, adaptive cruise control, or other vision based safety systems. The manufacturer specifies a certain type of glass to ensure the vision system works properly. It is unclear to what degree that is known to be technically necessary, what degree is the lawyers covering the company’s liability against unknowns, and what degree is the parts department elbowing their way into the service manual to boost sales.

Regardless, the large auto glass companies generally will not willfully ignore a statement from a manufacturer that could create a liability for them.

Here, for example, is Subaru’s policy on replacement glass for use with their Eyesight system:
Subaru Position Statement

I was in Austria 15 years ago, driving with an employee of our company who lives there. His car was a Ford Taurus station wagon. NOT the same car as US named “counterpart.” Different controls. Different face. Different interior. MUCH nicer car. Anyway… windshield was fogging up. He hit a button. There was no rush of air. I asked him about it. He said “look.” The windshield cleared in about 10 seconds. The windshield actually had a very thin fine wire mesh sandwiched inside it, acting like a slight “UV” filter. When electrified it would whisk away condensation so fast. I marveled at it. But then he said “Don’t ever break one. They cost $1,000 to replace!” :open_mouth:

With our 2019 Outback, we replaced the glass after a friggin’ “pebble” cracked it easily on the interstate. Never had glass crack so easily and as it was less than a year old… off to the dealer (in a LARGE city in Kansas) we went!

But they said they wouldn’t install FACTORY glass and even suggested an aftermarket instead. They had a deal set-up with a few local glass shops to do the calibration for the shops AFTER the install IF it needed it.

So this is how bad the 2019 glass was and it IS the #1 complaint for the year/model (so far) for what has otherwise been a super great car. Thankfully, our glass after replacing did NOT require recalibration, so we didn’t have to drive two hours away and sit for 3 more while the shop did that work we luckily dodged after-all.

Sounds like you were lucky. How much did it cost… your insurance company? I was pricing the 2020 Outback last evening. Thanks