Flashlight body wall thickness?

I recall reports of the Nitecore D10’s body tube cracking and sometimes breaking in half. Apparently it’s really thin.

Don’t limit yourself to the tube itself.
The critical point IMHO is the bottom of the slot for the O-ring between tube and threads.

Thanks for the replies. :slight_smile:

Interesting. :slight_smile:
I searched for that and failed to find any mention of such failure. Though I’ve seen a number of posts saying that lenses cracked from minimal abuse which some interpreted as the body being too thin around the lens. But a photo doesn’t confirm that:

The lens is thin though - just 1 mm.
And maybe the lens - body gap is too small and minimal flex of the body already stresses it?

This is usually the thinnest part from my experiences as well.

I think the most overbuilt light I’ve seen is the Manta Ray C8.2, the shelf is 8mm thick

My DQG Slim AA has pretty thin tube walls
The thinnest measurement I can make out is under the O-ring of the battery tube. Outside diameter is 15.07mm, inside diameter is 14.64mm. The difference is 0.43mm, so the wall thickness should be about 0.215mm. (That’s thinner than a slice of cheese on a cheeseburger for my fellow Americans.)
The DQG Slim impressed me due to its thin walls and very slim form factor (my other 1AA lights have a wall thickness, at least at the end of the threads, of well over 1mm. I am very surprised the E07 has such thin walls. This DQG is also titanium, so it’s got a bit more strength there.

This or that? I like it!

Yeah, that’s the one. I only have the short version but it is essentially a C8 with a 26650 tube and massively overbuilt head. Even the one I modded with a copper spacer, 6x Luxeon MZ’s, and a 12A driver handles heat like a champion. It certainly isn’t a pretty host, but on a utilitarian level it’s fantastic.

Barkuti, do you know how those compare to Kaidomain hosts (such as this one ) and how much space there is for a driver with a large inductor (I’m thinking XHP70.2…)?

No idea Scallywag, though that K5S looks pretty close to the aforementioned Manta Ray C8.2. Submit an inquiry to BanL in KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread.

Convoy’s XHP70 driver fits in the |C8.2 cavity fine, was the first light I built in this host.

Fenix TK20 (2xAA) has massively thick sidewalls.

You beat me to it. One could probably run over the TK20 with a car and not hurt it.

The Xeno E03 (14500/AA) is pretty solid. Thick-enough tube-walls to let them sculpt the finger-grips, yet!

And the Tacklife generic flashlight (26650), https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS7PLTB/ , is built like a club.

As for AAA lights, that Oilight i3UV light is a solid moose of a light, seems bulletproof.

The Glaree E03 is so lightweight it almost levitates. You forget it’s even there.

Kinda hard to bust an AAA light, unless you really tried hard, so the Glaree is fine for what it does.

Eagle eye X6

Yeah…indeed overkill:

Not my style….but nevertheless I like how it feels in hand :wink:

Does it make sense to build a C8.2 with XHP70.2 with Simon’s 4.5A driver but with removing the temperature protection?

I’m somewhat afraid it will stabilise the output below 1500lm.

Ryzbor, if you mean to use some ∅22mm Convoy SST-40 linear driver (12 groups or 4 modes) in a Manta Ray C8.2, could work. The drivers may need some modification to work properly with 2S cells, but if they're built with the same parts as other recent Convoy drivers they'll likely straight work fine. Check the Convoy XHP35 Driver Analysis / Testing / Schematic thread, onboard linear regulator investigation here.

The increased voltage drop in the MOSFETs could cause trouble, improve driver cooling as much as possible.

No no, the new 1s 22mm 6v boost driver from Simon.

Already tried and tested Ryzbor, really no need to ask then. The removal of the onboard NTC resistors is discussed in the Convoy 17/22 mm SST40 Driver temperature protection removal thread, and looks like someone found it in the XHP70x driver.

In my experience, though, you can place your multimeter's probes over the resistor pins, and blow some air with your mouth while looking at the multimeter's screen. Even if subtle, that will reduce the resistance 1 - 2% and will give you confirmation that you are peeking at the right thing.