Flashlight body wall thickness?

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Agro
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Flashlight body wall thickness?

Flashlights with thick walls are more sturdy, can stand more abuse.
They also conduct heat better.

OTOH they are larger and heavier.

But…what exactly is thick and what is thin?
What is the thinnest wall that’s thick enough?

My goal is lights that are tough enough to survive throwing around but nothing more than that – I’d rather reduce weight than overkill.

I haven’t seen that discussed but I don’t remember ever seeing aluminum flashlight that would crack or break.
I think I’ve seem some crushed but only after extreme abuse.

Thinking about it I came back to not so new thread:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1482537#comment-1482537

Fireflies E07 is an example of extremely thin walls, 0.3 mm in the thinnest place in a not-so-lightweight 21700 light.
I haven’t seen one that would brake yet.

This makes me think that maybe all our regular lights have extremely thick walls?…

kiriba-ru
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All depends from proportions. You don’t want 0.3mm wall in alu can-style flashlight, but it can be more than enough for 10180 or AAA light from stainless.
You can easily bent 0.5mm alu, but if this thin ring have supports like thicker material in both directions – you should not worry.

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My fear with the 2019 RRT01 and 18350 is that when it falls and hit something with the battery tube, you’ll end up with a canned battery. Else I wouldn’t mind.

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I recall reports of the Nitecore D10’s body tube cracking and sometimes breaking in half. Apparently it’s really thin.

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Don’t limit yourself to the tube itself.
The critical point IMHO is the bottom of the slot for the O-ring between tube and threads.

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Agro
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Thanks for the replies. Smile

Firelight2 wrote:
I recall reports of the Nitecore D10’s body tube cracking and sometimes breaking in half. Apparently it’s really thin.

Interesting. Smile
I searched for that and failed to find any mention of such failure. Though I’ve seen a number of posts saying that lenses cracked from minimal abuse which some interpreted as the body being too thin around the lens. But a photo doesn’t confirm that:

The lens is thin though – just 1 mm.
And maybe the lens – body gap is too small and minimal flex of the body already stresses it?

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Henk4U2 wrote:
Don’t limit yourself to the tube itself.
The critical point IMHO is the bottom of the slot for the O-ring between tube and threads.

This is usually the thinnest part from my experiences as well.

 

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VaKo
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I think the most overbuilt light I’ve seen is the Manta Ray C8.2, the shelf is 8mm thick

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My DQG Slim AA has pretty thin tube walls
The thinnest measurement I can make out is under the O-ring of the battery tube. Outside diameter is 15.07mm, inside diameter is 14.64mm. The difference is 0.43mm, so the wall thickness should be about 0.215mm. (That’s thinner than a slice of cheese on a cheeseburger for my fellow Americans.)
The DQG Slim impressed me due to its thin walls and very slim form factor (my other 1AA lights have a wall thickness, at least at the end of the threads, of well over 1mm. I am very surprised the E07 has such thin walls. This DQG is also titanium, so it’s got a bit more strength there.

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VaKo wrote:
I think the most overbuilt light I've seen is the Manta Ray C8.2, the shelf is 8mm thick

 

This or that? I like it!

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VaKo
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Yeah, that’s the one. I only have the short version but it is essentially a C8 with a 26650 tube and massively overbuilt head. Even the one I modded with a copper spacer, 6x Luxeon MZ’s, and a 12A driver handles heat like a champion. It certainly isn’t a pretty host, but on a utilitarian level it’s fantastic.

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Barkuti, do you know how those compare to Kaidomain hosts (such as this one ) and how much space there is for a driver with a large inductor (I’m thinking XHP70.2…)?

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
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No idea Scallywag, though that K5S looks pretty close to the aforementioned Manta Ray C8.2. Submit an inquiry to BanL in KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread.

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VaKo
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Convoy’s XHP70 driver fits in the |C8.2 cavity fine, was the first light I built in this host.

hank
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Fenix TK20 (2xAA) has massively thick sidewalls.

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hank wrote:
Fenix TK20 (2xAA) has massively thick sidewalls.
!{width:44%}https://i.imgur.com/8JNxlaM.jpg!

You beat me to it. One could probably run over the TK20 with a car and not hurt it.
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The Xeno E03 (14500/AA) is pretty solid. Thick-enough tube-walls to let them sculpt the finger-grips, yet!

And the Tacklife generic flashlight (26650), https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS7PLTB/ , is built like a club.

As for AAA lights, that Oilight i3UV light is a solid moose of a light, seems bulletproof.

The Glaree E03 is so lightweight it almost levitates. You forget it’s even there.

Kinda hard to bust an AAA light, unless you really tried hard, so the Glaree is fine for what it does.

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Eagle eye X6

Agro
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Yokiamy wrote:
Eagle eye X6

Yeah…indeed overkill:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/33871

Not my style….but nevertheless I like how it feels in hand Wink

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Does it make sense to build a C8.2 with XHP70.2 with Simon’s 4.5A driver but with removing the temperature protection?

I’m somewhat afraid it will stabilise the output below 1500lm.

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Ryzbor, if you mean to use some ∅22mm Convoy SST-40 linear driver (12 groups or 4 modes) in a Manta Ray C8.2, could work. The drivers may need some modification to work properly with 2S cells, but if they're built with the same parts as other recent Convoy drivers they'll likely straight work fine. Check the Convoy XHP35 Driver Analysis / Testing / Schematic thread, onboard linear regulator investigation here.

The increased voltage drop in the MOSFETs could cause trouble, improve driver cooling as much as possible.

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No no, the new 1s 22mm 6v boost driver from Simon.

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Already tried and tested Ryzbor, really no need to ask then. The removal of the onboard NTC resistors is discussed in the Convoy 17/22 mm SST40 Driver temperature protection removal thread, and looks like someone found it in the XHP70x driver.

In my experience, though, you can place your multimeter's probes over the resistor pins, and blow some air with your mouth while looking at the multimeter's screen. Even if subtle, that will reduce the resistance 1 - 2% and will give you confirmation that you are peeking at the right thing.

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BTW, if someone wants a bit of flashlight sexyness and toughness at the same time, you can get that C8.2 in red Wink
I guess the tube for the 2nd battery is not availble, though.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32953188982.html

About robust hosts, as a fan of AA lights: Convoy T2, Jaxman E3, Sofirn SF10 (Alonefire X360).

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I see that Fireflies E07 can indeed break from a mild drop:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/71977