For an emergency use or little use which type of battery should i use?

Primary means non-rechargeable lithium. Use them just like alkaline, but they have a much longer shelf life and are not likely to leak. I use them in things like smoke alarms, thermostats, and some remotes.
CR123A is higher voltage lithium primary, same diameter as a 18650, but about half the length. This kind of light would work well if you wanted a tiny light with better output than AAA. I see not problem keeping them in a car. They are often used in photography where you could ruin very expensive equipment if it leaked.

LiFePo4/lithium-ion phosphate is a type of rechargeable lithium, a bit lower voltage (3.3v) and lower capacity, but is more robust than Li-on. Some people don’t think it’s a good idea to leave Li-on in a car….just in case.
I have a few LiFe from an old use but not sure I’d go out of my way to get them. LSD NiMh is probably more generally useful.

I have a small AAA twisty with a NiMh eneloop that’s easy to get at in the car for regular use in the dark. I also have a AA NiMh eneloop headlamp in the trunk if I have to have hands free and do some work that will take longer or need a lot more light. NiMh are very unlikely to leak. They will slowly discharge so it’s reasonable to pull them out and cycle them 1-2x/year. Decent batteries should still last a long time. Only use LSD NiMh for this, otherwise they will be discharged when you want to use them.

Primary batteries aren’t rechargeable. You throw them out when discharged.

I think for the moment i will go with the NiMh for Keychain and emergency use inside the car. Maybe further in time when i know more about CR123 batteries i’d try.

For the NiMh AA i know Eneloop and Ladda. For the AAA option are there any good options?

Thank you so much for your help!

For AAA size NiMh again the choice is Eneloop or Ladda. Maybe regular Eneloop is better than Ladda (or the equivalent Eneloop Pro) for this purpose, because they have less self-discharge.

I use lights with CR123A or AA lithium primaries in my vehicles, as recommended by several earlier posts.

Some flashlights that are standard with a single 18650 Li-ion cell will also take 2x CR123As.

It has been stated, for many years now, that lithium primaries are the best choice for leaving in vehicles for extended periods of time - thus, that has been my choice… for many years. Otherwise, I use Li-Ion rechargeable almost exclusively. With Eneloops in the few lights I have which aren’t able to handle Li-Ion.

I have an AAA light in my car, loaded with Eneloop
I have an AAA light for my keychain, also loaded with Eneloop.

every few months, I change the battery in the car light… I have never had the light not work. It stays there during freezing winters, and hot summers.

It would be better if I used 1.5 volt Lithium Primaries, for example Energizer Ultimate Lithium, but those are expensive, and not rechargeable. That makes me reluctant to actually use the light…
They are the best choice for an emergency light left unused for years at a time…

I prefer rechargeable AAA or AA Eneloop. In my practical experience, they work even if left in a hot or freezing car, long term. With appropriate battery changes periodically.

I do not recommend leaving any 3.7volt LiIon in a car, that means no 18650, 16340, etc

I use lights with 16340 batteries for the majority of my needs, but IF I was going to leave one in a car long term, I would change the battery to 3 volt Lithium Primary, called CR123.

It is a BAD Idea to use lights with TWO CR123… Lights that use only ONE battery are safer.

This, absolutely, when the earthquake shaking stops and you really need a working flashlight, those will be the ones you reach for.

Once you sort out the chaos, your NiMH will sustain you and the neighbors for a while — assuming you have a solar panel and big 12v battery, or a car power plug, and some battery chargers handy that it will power. Oh, and the usual advice, never let your vehicle’s gas tank fall below half full.

Are there examples of a problem with a single battery 18650 flashlight in a vehicle because of high, low temps or length of time? I’ve searched in the past and I can’t find them.

What I have in my cars is an AA flashlight ready to use with a LSD NiMH, and 2 separate alkaleaks AA as backup in a zip-lock bag. Cheap as hell. Once a year I top up the NiMH and check the alkaleaks to replace them if have leaked or have low voltage (very rare). They withheld temperatures of >50 C in the summer without a problem. Wouldn’t feel comfortable doing that to any li-ion battery, not even primary ones.

missGoogle told me primary lithium has a bit wider temperature range than eneloop:

The Energizer® Ultimate Lithium™
(–40ºF to 140ºF).

Eneloop
(–20ºF to 120ºF).

I believe cars can get hotter than 120F… depending…

but yes, eneloop works fine in my car, in my real world
mild winter temps of 20F
pleasant summer temps of 80F

have never put a thermometer in my car… where my flashlight is… hmmm more corona time entertainment…

you made me look… lol

maybe 18650 are not going to blow up in a car:

The only thing I have to add to this thread is about cold temperatures and manual lockout. I used to leave several lights with 18650 30 Q’s in them as part of a winter survival kit. I would always do a manual lockout so as to not have any drain while not in use. This past winter on a very cold night (about –25 C) I needed to use one of the lights. When I twisted the tail cap to once again use the light, the grease on the threads as well as the O ring were both frozen and the O ring tore and needed to be replaced once I warmed up the light. Not a big deal but something to consider if you may encounter the same conditions as I did.

Alkaline are all crap nowadays. Top of the line name brands leak. I vote primary lithium like a cr123 if you are keeping it in a car. Close second would be NIMH but I think the lithium primary would hold a charge longer and have an expiration date you can always check. I would not leave a rechargable li-ion of any type unattended in a car. Unless you are trying to get rid of that car.

another vote for CR123 as “set it and forget it” batteries.

i have four CR123 emergency use only flashlights.
twice a year i turn them on just to make sure.
once a year i check the charges and check for leaks.
no leaks and the oldest are still good at 11 years old.

9v cells. I remember someone said during a hurricane, he went to the store to get batteries for his lights, all batteries are gone except for 9v.

dealgrabber2002….that is right!

i had the same experience
after an ice storm.
what are some modern 9V flashlights
that are not the lantern-type?

I think too many people are overthinking too many things nowadays.

I bought some nice looking/fitting Zoomies yrs ago 18650.
Self charging socket in the side of.
One in each car.
Every “whenever”” I remember them I stick the dash charger into them for a coupla days.
One was on for around 2 months. LG Laptop pulls. 22600.
Never missed a beat, they still reading 3.6.(Whoops 3.9 - 4.1v on multi,)
I keep 98% of my torches in area of computer desk. Go through all my installed battery’s every coupla months and recharge.
Come to think of it. ALL my lights with battery installed. Apart from a coupla AA/AAA sized that don’t allow rechargables. Have Li-Ion and Li-Po installed…

All controllers, mouse etc run Duracel Ultra.

Climate. warm to Hot mostly. Queensland Sub Tropics. High Humidity (some say. I don’t notice )
Our winter means a light cover over a sheet in bed. for maybe 5 to 7 weeks (Intermittently) of the yr.

From a test I ran a while back.
113F official high, 115F on my car thermometer.
Coolest: Under front seat - 126.3F = 52.4C
Middle: Dash Glovebox - 138.5F = 59.2C
Hottest: Center consul - 146.6F = 63.7C

I vote for 123s, I’ve never had any leaks from then and they seem to last forever.
Next I would go for Lithium non-rechargeable.
After that, a cheap 2xC maglight (or?). and change the batteries every 2 years.
C batteries seem to be less prone to leaking that the AAA-AA flavors.

As far as pocket lights, almost all are too big for EDC use as far as I’m concerned.
I like the Nitecore TUBE.
Small as a USB thumb drive, rechargeable, electronic lockout, 45 lumens on high.
Easy to hold in the mouth if you need both hands.
Best of all - about $9-$11
Some have found that the internals fail after a while.
The problem seems to be the battery rattles around inside and eventually strain hardens the wires and they fail.
The fix is to open it up an put a tiny dot of double sides tape in there to keep the battery from moving around.
Be sure to allow room for the battery to expand and contract.
All the Best,
Jeff

2C Mags run great on L91 AA ultimate lithiums. L91’s will handle 140F, have a 20 year self life and won’t leak.

CR123A = shelf life is like 15 years = even then they do not leak

NOT aa or aaa, they leak, they do it worse in heat

not really li- ion, they run down in a couple years, plus capacity goes down in cold

wle

Okay, just some accrued wisdom over the years…

Never ever ever ever ever keep alkaleaks in any light. Unless, of course, you hate the light and want a reason/excuse to throw it out.

Alkaleaks are inherently evil. It even says so on the packaging, right under the “Hecho en Chine” part. Their aim in life and death is to ruin every device they’re placed in, if given even the slightest chance to do so.

CR123As are long-shelf-life almost-leak-free cells that can be used in quite many lights. They also withstand heat/cold extremes quite well. A box of ’123s found in a pyramid in Cheops still had enough juice in them to light a P60.

Lights that can take a pair of ’123s might be a good compromise. Check the light’s maximum voltage first.

eneloops are also good all-weather cells, but are limited to lights that can take NiMH. amaloops used to be as highly-rated, but I’m not sure about the latest ones. Not sure about LADDAloops, either.

No matter what the cell(s) used, keep them and any spares outside the light and in separate baggies. Yeah, even ’123s if you want to be safer.