Nice. Someone at pelican must be a flashlight guy lol. You can get your own epp foam and do the same if you already have a case. Cutting with a hot wire is not too difficult just don’t breathe it in!
Got my second EX11.2 inserted brand new Surefire Red 123 the third on/off cycle it stayed on NO MORE!!!
Completely wiped the BAD little nuggets off both sides of this POS driver and mounted up a filed down 14mm to 12mm FETDD moppydrv. (I have 12mm Anduril drivers coming from Lexel)
. Sealed the bare contacts on both side of the pcb contact plate that used to be the driver with black epoxy paint, added the Golden Spring for easy smooth piston action, cheap $1.50 SS Clip and a 50.2 3volt emitter… just for gig’s
Almost 1900lm at T/O 1600lm at 30sec. and really HOT… lowest level is “moon” 4-5lm.
Very responsive piston/driver re-action zero failures to Turn Off
Even with the problems reported for the EX11.2 it was too interesting a light for me to pass up, so after finding some rechargeable 3v batteries…
And replacing the emitters with sw30, sw35, and sw45k….
And adding trits so I can find them in the dark (and because I just like them)…
I have used them for a few weeks now and have found that if I do a hard press of medium length I don’t have any unexpected results. Short clicks, no matter how hard may lead to undesired results. The same for light clicks. The only failures that I have had have been when I didn’t do both of these things.
Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks to enjoy the EX11.2
I also find that pressing deliberately, not lightly nor quickly, is helpful.
Today I discovered another factor I can adjust… piston travel!
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I have an EX11.2 that was pissing me off!
the button just seemed to have a mind of its own
it would not ramp, it would strobe when I did not want it to, it would not turn off…
I blamed the LED, I blamed the battery, I blamed my thumb
the solution was to back the head out 1/8 to 1/4 turn
Nirvana!!!
all my clicks are now understood properly by the EX11.2 driver. I can go to minimum, maximum, strobe, sos, turn on, ramp up and down, turn off… all predictably.
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speculation, why does unscrewing the head work?:
I think that when the head is fully tight, the piston pushes the spring loaded brass contact ring too close to the driver. The piston does not have enought travel to rebound properly, to allow the brass ring to lift itself away from the driver.
by loosening the head, we eliminate the excess compression from the piston pressing on the contact ring
with the head slightly loose, there is a bit more piston travel, and everything works properly
also note, different batteries have different lengths, cr123 are shorter than protected 16340, etc…
fwiw, the head loses contact with the piston if unscrewed 3/4 turn… so dont do that… unless you want to use the light as a single mode twisty
Thanks for that tip. I have now loosened the heads on the three EX11.2’s that I have and I will be testing to see if this makes it easy enough to let a less experienced person use these lights comfortably as I really like the beam profile after changing out the emitters.