yeah the light does like the 10k lumens for like a second then drops faster in the blink of an eye the lumens… having the xhp50 in 5000k tint or so would be nice or even warmer.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this comparison, it was really helpful. It showed that the lights were essentially identical in initial output and the decision comes down more to UI or preferred host. I ended up going with the Nightwatch NSX3 due to the decent body’s design for heat dispersion. You are much appreciated good sir.8
Just got my FW21 Pro in the mail today. The dang thing gets super hot. For longevity, I calibrated the sensor and set the limit to 40C which is pretty close to getting too hot to hold for me.
It smokes a black paper plate in 2 secs lol. I wonder if it can catch it on fire!
In my VERY unscientific ceiling bounce test and using a LUX meter app (phone placed on floor), it goes up to 1200 lux compared to my Convoy M3’s ~650 lux. Then it throttles to about 150 lux lol. (Please note that these are relative tests and the lux numbers are in no way comparable to other peoples results!)
This is with using a P42a Molicell 21700.
What a strange race we are facing in 2019/2020….the more lumens possible in a lowest possible time ?
It started with imalent flashlights 3 years ago…
i would like to see a small light that can sustain 3000lm for 10min.
Would be kind of hard in a small body.
You need mass for heat-sinking.
Now if I needed 10k lumens for work, I would be looking at 2x, 3x 4x 21700 Lights that are big and heavy.
I know I know…we are talking about 80 to 150w and even more than 200w for 10klumens ! Cpu cooler are much more bigger and feature fan designs…
I was talking with Dale from Haikelite about fan cooling for the big 3xxhp70.2 lights
But considering the current thread I would like to see the small light with exact time specs. For example a 3000lm light should sustain it for 5min mini. Like tig welder are rated with running coefficients…
The decent/honest manufacturers often list a estimated time until stepdown + output after stepdown on their FL1 runtime charts. Even the FL1 standard has it’s own issues though, like how Maglite games it to massively inflate their runtime numbers without making any mention of the huge stepdowns.
I found the answer: not the FW21 PRO. Cooked the domes and phosphor off
I was tempted before, but no longer
Oh wow!!!
FYI 1st thing I did after turning the light on was configure the Thermal limit and calibrate the temp sensors. Set the limit to 40C. By default it’s set to 45 I think and it thought the ambient temp was sub 15C (room temp around 22C).
I could see how it could cook itself at default settings… Good thing I like messing with settings lol
Also, another thing I noticed is that the temp sensor doesn’t update the readings often enough for this light.
Toykeeper mentioned that it updates every 6-7 seconds, which is fine for running Turbo from a “cold” start. But if you turn it back to turbo after it steps down, it will stay at turbo for at least 6-7 seconds before it starts stepping down gradually again, rinse repeat and now you have a dead light…
This light needs a temp sensor that is more “realtime” that updates every second and more aggressively steps down depending on how much over the limit it is
I wonder where the BLF Q8 lands for sustained output (and then, modded with 50.2s, what it can sustain)? Or lights like Convoy L6/Sofirn SP70
I know for sure that my convoy L6 can stay on turbo indefinitely, it doesn’t get that warm….
For that reason I decide to order SST40 variant of Nightwatch with 5k lumens because want turbo for longer times and its have better heat dissipation design compared to FW21Pro.
I have a stock FW21 Pro. Does anyone know what the color temp is with the XHP50.2 emitters in this? 5000k? Or 6500k?
The color temp is ok for me, but my only quibble with the XHP50.2 is the green corona around the hotspot is a little irksome, though it isn’t terribly bothersome - generally only noticeable when white wall hunting. But I do appreciate minor improvements, when I can get them.
Is there another emitter option, to mod this light with, to get rid of the green corona, but still retain reasonably high, cool white, lumen levels? Would XP-L emitters work well in place of the XHP50.2 emitters?
I don’t care if I can’t hit 10,000 lumens on turbo. For the most part, I would use the light within the ramp range, only using turbo very briefly on occasion.
Probably 6500K is original FW21Pro emitters. 5000K version of XHP50.2 are difficult to find and manufactured only by special order. Good replacement for XHP50.2 is SST40.
why not XHP70.2 ? they exist in neutral and warm white tints…
I’ve read that the SST40 has a greenish tint shift at med to low levels?
Good question! Do these have a greenish corona around the central beam, as the XHP50.2 does?
If not, I’m sure I’d be thrilled with moving to XHP70.2 in neutral tint.
No idea, i dont own any light with that emitter sadly… but i just placed order for the FW21 from neals… need this light haha 
What is the best battery for this light (NightwatchNSX3) for Max output? Samsung 30t? 40t? Button top, flat top, both?
I have a sofirn 21700 40a
and an ijoy 20700 40a
I don’t know if they are enough to do the job. Thanks for the input!