https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/1OepNr_D4lqbdTFqdqWl1rmAd4bOzPzJe6J0iEWrdJGU/htmlview
And there we have it! Thanks for the link.
Ok thanks guys….I’m tempted just because it’s different….too me.
I carry the Green thorn Mouse3 since a month or so as my work knife.
There’s many knives I own which I’d gladly sell or trade, this one’s a keeper.
15cm open length, very much enough for most tasks.
I went for the one with the flipper tab. It needs some time to get used to it but I wouldn’t want the one with the ugly hole in the blade.
It also comes with the nicer clip and pivot screw (and it’s a framelock knife, photoshopped as usual)
If you read this fast you have a chance to buy it at a sale price ($55 instead of $65)
Btw, it was the sharpest knife out of the box I ever received, the blade is about .3 to .4mm behind the cutting edge, so it’s easy to keep it sharp.
Thanks for the links. I was browsing and found a mini buster clone:
Looks nice but guess I can’t expect a real D2 for a clone.
I have this knife.
Can’t beat it for the price. Very sharp. I’m not totally convinced it’s D2 at this point. Initially I thought it was, but I left water on the blade for an hour—no surface rust. Still, it’s a stiffer metal than my 8Cr13Mov. It could be 440C. It does hold an edge nicely. The pivot loosened up a couple times with initial open/close sessions. I was able to tighten with 2 Torx screwdriver bits. It hasn’t loosened up since. Alignment is totally dead center between the scales. The liner lock doesn’t automatically slide all the way behind the blade pivot. It initially covers like 20%. That’s fine for light duty. But you can press your thumb on the lock & get it to come into full contact. Blade is so solid & secure. My only gripe is the weight. It’s a little on the heavy side for this class. Yet again… the price point balances this out.
One last thing — the top edges of the blade spine come quite sharp out of the box. Not quite “hot” enough to do skin damage, just uncomfortable. However, it was easily remedied with a little micromesh rubbing. Now it feels great!
Thank you, that’s exactly the info I was looking for. I didn’t realize that this compact knife was over 100 grams, which is definitely on the heavy side. Really tempting for the price though.
Just found the mini buster clone with a G10 handle, which shaves off the weight a bit:
^ Nice find. 91g versus 104g—not a huge difference. But the G-10 scales sure look nice.
I prefer the look of the all-metal buster. And the weight savings isn’t all that much. How would you rate the action of the metal buster compared to your other knives?
Bought quite a few of both the Land and 7010 varients. Have quite a few of the Land 9103 and 9104, as well as the 910 with both green and black scales. The 9103 is stainless and 9104 is blackwash. I have the 710, and 7010 in both stainless and blackwash. They started out as being labeled as 710, but even with no change at all the added a 0 after the 7, for no known reason. The knives were identical. All of them are made by Sanrenmu, but for some reason they removed the Sanrenmu from the lands. The lands were under 10 bucks when I bought them from gearbest. The 7010 models were about 5 bucks. Now, if you find the lands they run around 30 bucks. Sanrenmu makes an amazingly high quality knife for the money. I have around 100 of them. Most are still in the boxes. Seems that every time I start really liking something, it triples in price. Mosin Nagant rifles did the same.
I don’t have a huge collection, but compared to the ones you see in the photo… You can tell that the Mini-Buster “Warrior” is a budget knife. The swing action is good. There is a tension detent in the last 5mm of travel to closed position, as you’d expect from good knives (helps keep blade from accidentally sliding out). But the overall experience is not as good as on my SOG Vulcan Tanto or my Spyderco Vrango. That said… I got mine for $20 shipped. Can’t complain!
Btw, I don’t EDC any of these. I discovered the beauty of the “mini fruit knife.”
This little thing tucks nicely inside my coin pocket. Don’t feel a thing. No protruding clip. It is a frame lock. Requires 2 handed operation as it won’t swing open (not enough mass). But wow, so sharp, so useful. Does pretty much all the spontaneous small chores I face. When I need to do something more involved, I take out the others. My whole approach to having the D2 Mini-Buster was to be a “throw away” to take with me when I need to do rough chores. And it handles that role well.
By the way, one nice little “hidden bonus,” is that the slot in those scales on the D2 Mini-Buster can work as a wire insulation cutter. You slide the wire in, hold fast against the blade, then rotate to score the insulation.
As a former Electro mechanical troubleshooter the act of spinning the wire insulator to remove the covering is not really a great way to do it. It cuts into the wire and weakens it to possibly break later. Cutting at an angle is better for the strength of the wire. This is especially true with stranded wire, and any strands you cut through will reduce the number of amps that wire can carry. The act of spinning the wire under a blade might look neater, but is not the best way.
Of course, it’s not the proper way, but it’ll serve in a pinch. And yes, you’d have to be careful to to cut into the wire strands. Just deep enough such that the insulation will pull free. When doing a serious project, you’d want all the right tools.
I was once a HVAC technician and never learned that. When I became a system troubleshooter for Michelin Tire plant they sent me to College for mechanical and electrical. All troubleshooters there are trained for both. I learned that then, but actually it was more from an extremely sharp electrician there that bordered on genius level. I was at that plant for 35 years, but 25 years of it was spent in production. Getting the maintenance job was my dream job from day 1. I truly hated when a functional capacity exam ended my career after 4 level cervical fusion. The stenosis took an unusual effect on me which prevented catching it earlier. Usually the level of stenosis I had would cause unbearable pain, but it actually had the opposite effect on me. It pinched my spinal cord to prevent normal pain signals from reaching my brain. My only symptom was a weird limp,and dragging my right foot. It did not cause pain which made the limp too easy to ignore. It was only having to go on leave due to a pulmonary embolism that prompted me to get an MRI. The Neurosurgeon said after seeing the results 4 level fusion would be necessary, or within 3 months I would be paralyzed from the neck down or dead. I spent a week in the hospital due to the PE, a week due to Warfarin causing drug induced pancreatitis, and a week after the surgery from which I nearly coded. For the record, fusion was not done to reverse the spinal cord damage…it can’t. It was done to prevent further damage. In 2 of the 4 levels the spinal canal was less than 5 mm and the spinal cord is 10 mm wide and the space is suppose to be about 13 mm. I have not worked a day since. My SSDI was approved on the first filing which rarely happens. I was disabled at 55 years of age. I can still walk, but there are many health issues due to the damage. I am now 62, and the issues prevent me from doing almost all the things I loved before. At least money is not an issue. I need to always be less than 5 minutes from a rest room, my arms and legs tingle constantly, I have very poor balance and have to walk very carefully. I also have had Miniere’s disease for 15 years which left me deaf in the left ear except for tinnitus, but 15 years ago it was causing vertigo. I had a chemical labyrinthectomy which is injecting gentamicin in my ear drum to kill the balance function on that ear.
TMI sir, but sorry for what you went through.
I’m not doing professional grade work. I’m a MacGyver type. I make do with lesser tools fairly often. I realize the risks. My suggestion wasn’t intended as a replacement for the right tool, only that it’s possible if you don’t have a good wire stripper around.
QSP Hawk Carbon Fiber
Received a Canku C06 folding knife yesterday. Within an hour of unboxing it, I repackaged it, and dropped it off at a UPS store to send it back.
Gritty, grinding sounding pivot. I looked at the innards with a magnifying glass, and it was a mess of what looked like micro metal shavings, dirt, tiny fibers and black gunk.
Very heavy. I like a good weighty EDC knife, but the C06 is too heavy. There is no skelatinization to reduce weight, and the blade and liners are rather thick.
Weak detent. The blade would fall open with minimal wrist action while the knife was held upside down. Never experienced anything like it.
Thumb stud placement way to far up, will not flip open with a snap. Between the weak detent and poor placement of the thumb studs, this knife is very easy to fail when trying to deploy the blade.
The reviews on Amazon are all five star ratings. Now I really feel like reviews are fake.
Thank goodness I bought it on Amazon and not an overseas seller, because I would be screwed in getting a refund in a timely matter, if at all.
Just received an Ontario RAT 1 in AUS-8 blade steel and FRN scales.
I can totally understand why this is such a popular EDC knife. The ergonomics are spot on. The blade is scary sharp. The action is surprisingly awesome for being on washers. The thumb studs perfectly placed for fantastic fly opening of the blade. I can’t get over how nice the FRN scales are done, I thought they were G-10. And, a well done thumb ramp. Got it on Amazon for $25, SCORE!
I would like to get a D2 version someday.
