Dissapointed with Sofirn IF25A - need advice

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trmgkl
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Dissapointed with Sofirn IF25A - need advice

Hey guys,

I’m kinda new here. Lately I’ve picked up an interest in flashlights. It all started with buying Olight Perun as my edc flashlight and headlight as I pretty often spend the night out in the field and in the forest.
I am very happy with this flashlight but it’s very floody and I wanted to buy something more throwy, so I purchased Convoy M21C – still waiting for this flashlight.
But then I started reading this forum and heard about Sofirn company. I visited their shop on aliexpress and I really liked IF25A model.
The flashlight arrived very quickly, I was very surprised and happy.
But then I started playing with the flashlight and I am kinda dissapointed.
I think some of the modes doesn’t work on my flashlight.
I even watched YouTube tutorial to make sure I understand Anduril correctly, but it seems I’m doing everything just fine, and some modes just won’t trigger on my flashlight.
For example:
1) Double click for turbo doesn’t work for me. If I do “2 fast clicks” from off, the flashlight turns on, but the output is very poor compared to my Olight Perun, with Turbo on Perun I can’t hold my finger in front of the lens for longer than 1 sec before it starts to burn, on my Sofirn IF25A I can hold my finger on the glass of my lens for as long as I want, it doesn’t even get warm. What’s ever more funny is when I do “2 fast clicks” from on, the flashlight itself turns off, just the green LED on the button starts to shine really bright. 4 LEDs up front doesn’t light up at all.
2) In strobes, Candle works fine, Lightning Storm works fine, but when I engage Biker Flasher it suppose to “stutter” every second, but my flashlight doesn’t stutter, it’s just one steady beam of light, the only thing that flashes/stutter is green LED on the button.
3) In party mode, 4 LEDs up front doesn’t light up at all, they are completely off, the only thing that strobes is again green LED on the button.
4) Same story with Tactical Flash, 4 LEDs up front doesn’t light up at all, they are completely off, the only thing that strobes is again green LED on the button.

I’m pretty sure I’m not in muggle mode as I can change my ramping from smooth to stepped.
I tried taking battery out for couple of hours to maybe “reset” the driver but it didn’t help.
I used TempChek function and it showed 44 degrees, which was really high, so I calibrated it to 29 degrees but it didn’t help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_4LbNDWY6E

What do You guys think? Can you explain to me if I’m doing something wrong or is it just damaged flashlight?

Best regards,
Thomas.

EDIT. Added Youtube link

Edited by: trmgkl on 06/24/2020 - 19:09
oweban
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Hey mate, a few quick notes:

Before I get started – what battery are you using?

1) Double-press from off is to go to top of ramp – when the light is on, a double press goes to turbo. If it’s turning off, it sounds like you might be using a protected battery, so it’s tripping the protection. A FET light going to turbo can pull >10A easily.

2-4) Odd. I wonder if a reflash of the firmware might help, but that’s a decently big job if you’ve not done it before. Might be worth finding someone in your area who knows how, we’re a pretty friendly bunch here. Whereabouts are you located?

trmgkl
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oweban wrote:
Hey mate, a few quick notes:

Before I get started – what battery are you using?

1) Double-press from off is to go to top of ramp – when the light is on, a double press goes to turbo. If it’s turning off, it sounds like you might be using a protected battery, so it’s tripping the protection. A FET light going to turbo can pull >10A easily.

2-4) Odd. I wonder if a reflash of the firmware might help, but that’s a decently big job if you’ve not done it before. Might be worth finding someone in your area who knows how, we’re a pretty friendly bunch here. Whereabouts are you located?

Ohh yes I should have mention it – I am using SAMSUNG INR21700-50E 5000mAh, I was told this is pretty decent battery, but is it?

I’ve never done anything like reflashing the firmware unfortunately.

I come from Warsaw, Poland, so I don’t think there are many people on BLF from my area that can help me.

I am uploading a video to YouTube right now to better show what I am talking about, I will post link soon.

Thomas

oweban
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Okay, a 50E should be able to handle that. Hmmmmm. I’ll have a bit more of a think.

Blggg
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For the 1st point, I suggest you go with Samsung 40t or equivalent. This light is more or less comparable to D4V2 sst20, which pulls out 15-17A at turbo (double click after the light is on).

Richard Noggin 28
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Kinda wonder if your light isn’t in Muggle mode.

SerenityNow
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In addition to everything else, try cleaning all the springs and unanodized metal contact points with alcohol.

SammysHP
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This sounds like a not working FET channel. You should ask the seller for a replacement.

trmgkl
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Okay guys, today I ordered Samsung INR21700-40T with 35A discharge current.
We will see…

But to be honest I was hoping that with weaker battery my turbo will be weaker, I didn’t expect it to be non-existent.

g_damian
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SammysHP wrote:
This sounds like a not working FET channel. You should ask the seller for a replacement.

I agree. It can’t be a battery issue, because aux leds stay turned on while main leds are off in turbo mode.

trmgkl
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g_damian wrote:
SammysHP wrote:
This sounds like a not working FET channel. You should ask the seller for a replacement.

I agree. It can’t be a battery issue, because aux leds stay turned on while main leds are off in turbo mode.

I messaged the seller on aliexpress, I hope they will send me another one or refund me full price. Sad
I am dissapointed with the light output of this flashlight.

mortuus
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did u try with a 40t battery see if output gets better?

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

icpart
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I still more like my old changing color IF25 and theese days I thinking to order Anduril version but i think IF25 is very good 21700 host. Seems the MOSFET transistor of driver is burn out, because second channel doesn’t work at all.

trmgkl
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mortuus wrote:
did u try with a 40t battery see if output gets better?

I’m waiting on my 40T battery, should arrive monday/tuesday.
I’ll give updates here to let you guys know if more powerful battery is the answer.

Zappaman
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I’ve run both the Sofirn 21700 (4000 mAh) and Molicel P42a on my new IF25a and they both drive the light well at high and turbo. So I don’t think its a battery issue.

I haven’t dug in yet to Anduril though and I have a ramping issue where (after warming up)… the light bumps down to a very low setting almost immediately. Yet, when put back into step mode (or whatever the factory setting is called), the light stays on wherever I leave it. Even turbo keeps up well without a noticeable reduction in lumens despite the light running pretty warm (can’t touch the head bare handed after about a minute).

Might put Sofirn on notice as you work on these issues.

Best of luck with it!

ZappaMan

trmgkl
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OK guys so I tried 40T battery and nothing changed, my flashlight is broken, I am in contact with Sofirn on Aliexpress and they wanted me to send a video showing the problem.

I don’t have much experience with Aliexpress, can you guys tell me if I should confirm the goods received and open a dispute or leave it as it is?

Zappaman
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Nothing wrong with opening a dispute. In the past I regret not doing so with the Ali_express Sofirn folks… but won’t go into that now. It is a formality and nothing more than a notice something is wrong. I’d guess they would make good as it’s all above the board here (and on the BLF record).

You deserve a working light and Sofirn will make good on any verified defect with a clear record of the issues you’ve had. Thumbs Up

ZappaMan

trmgkl
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Ok guys, I am officialy very dissapointed with Sofirn Company.

I was messaging with them on Aliexpress, I explained them what’s going on, I did send them a videos showing the problems, and after all of that their engineer told me to fully charge battery.
I told them like 3 times that I tried two different batteries (samsung 50E and 40T) and I fully charged both of them.
I suggested that probably FET driver is broken to which their reply was “if the driver is broken then flashlight wouldn’t work”.
I told them that is seems like flashlight works only in regulated mode, to which they replied “my friend, check instructions carefully, this is not a quality problem”.
And that’s it.
They are saying my flashlight is fine, when I clearly can’t use Turbo, Bike flasher, Party Strobe and Tactical Strobe.

Did any of you had similar problem with Sofirn company?

icpart
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trmgkl wrote:
Ok guys, I am officialy very dissapointed with Sofirn Company.

I was messaging with them on Aliexpress, I explained them what’s going on, I did send them a videos showing the problems, and after all of that their engineer told me to fully charge battery.
I told them like 3 times that I tried two different batteries (samsung 50E and 40T) and I fully charged both of them.
I suggested that probably FET driver is broken to which their reply was “if the driver is broken then flashlight wouldn’t work”.
I told them that is seems like flashlight works only in regulated mode, to which they replied “my friend, check instructions carefully, this is not a quality problem”.
And that’s it.
They are saying my flashlight is fine, when I clearly can’t use Turbo, Bike flasher, Party Strobe and Tactical Strobe.

Did any of you had similar problem with Sofirn company?


I have buyed so many lights from Sofirn Aliexpress store. Sofirn SP36, C8G, SP10S, SP33. Also order from them spare parts for my SP36. So far I have only one issues when order my SP36, there was a quality marks of anodization. I told them about problem and they answered me that it is not problem for light functionality and in end I just order spare SP36 body tube. Most of time they are responsive. If you can make video of issues just send it to them. If you do not reach a solution to the problem you can directrly open dispute on Aliexpress for refund. Maybe best option for you will be partial refund, because if you want full you must shipping back your product back to China which in most cases is unprofitable.
I have won Aliexpress disputes many times for very cheap product so Aliexpress protection is very good at all.
Zappaman
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Zappaman wrote:
I haven’t dug in yet to Anduril though and I have a ramping issue where (after warming up)… the light bumps down to a very low setting almost immediately. Yet, when put back into step mode (or whatever the factory setting is called), the light stays on wherever I leave it. Even turbo keeps up well without a noticeable reduction in lumens despite the light running pretty warm (can’t touch the head bare handed after about a minute).

Edit 7/7/2020: Funtastic kindly shared Anduril links with me and today I finally dug into Anduril. The IF25a is acting normal now and after testing tonight it is clear I needed to “reset” the temp sensor which was way off from the factory. I still need to work on (correctly) setting the smooth ramping upper limit though. This light (in summer right now) is too warm in the bare hand to run on high for more than a minute or two. And turbo really heats up faster yet!!!

I see this being a nice SMALL EDC for my day hunt pack this winter (replacing my Sofirn SP-10, another great little light)! It’s a smaller pack so smaller lights leave room for (another) beer for the tree stand. And if I get cold hands I can whip this out, turn on turbo and warm up my hands FAST Blushing

Definitely LOVE this IU (thank you TK) Thumbs Up Beer

ZappaMan

icpart
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Temperature offset is common problem with Anduril flashlights. I don’t know why they didn’t make factory temperature calibration before sending flashlight. The problem is with MCU temperature sensor which is very inaccurate and have big tolerances between MCUs. From Attiny85 datasheet “Typically, the measurement accuracy after a single temperature calibration is ±10°C, assuming calibration at room temperature. Better accuracies are achieved by using two temperature points for calibration.”
I can’t say that ±10°C accuracy is best at all, and that it is after calibration.

RB2021
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icpart wrote:
Temperature offset is common problem with Anduril flashlights. I don’t know why they didn’t make factory temperature calibration before sending flashlight. The problem is with MCU temperature sensor which is very inaccurate and have big tolerances between MCUs. From Attiny85 datasheet “Typically, the measurement accuracy after a single temperature calibration is ±10°C, assuming calibration at room temperature. Better accuracies are achieved by using two temperature points for calibration.” I can’t say that ±10°C accuracy is best at all, and that it is after calibration.

Maybe you can help me understand what’s going on with my IF25a. This is my first time playing with Anduril but I’m confident that I understand how to configure it.

I set the thermal limit as low as possible because I want to be more comfortable pocketing it without putting it in lockout or muggle mode most of the time. I set the ambient temperature as accurately as I can with a digital thermometer. After the two blinks I click just once so I believe it should be limited at 31C. When I put it in turbo, It doesn’t seem to ramp down aggressively even though I set an aggressive limit. The light allowed it self to 57C which is hot enough that I’m uncomfortable holding it and struggle to click the button to turn it off. I sat it on a desk in front of me and just let turbo ride as I found this thread and made this post which is taking maybe 5 minutes. I just checked and it was clearly ramping down and measured at 41C. I wish the limiter could be more aggressive and keep my light out of the fire zone without resorting to lockout or muggle mode.

Funtastic
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You could set a higher temp for the first setting and see how it behaves

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz

Zappaman
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After several attempts to set a ramp ceiling on my IF25a that didn’t cook my hand…

I settled on 40 clicks DOWN from max in the ramp configuration (in smooth ramping). So the first blinks in the configuration are for the LOW end limit of the ramp. I clicked once for the “moon” (lowest) it will go. Then the next blinks come up running through the cycle, and are for the upper limit. I tried 20, 30 and finally 40 clicks where I left it for the test tonight.

I went out just 30 minutes ago, and waked around about 3 minutes on this upper ramp setting. It got pretty warm with the head of the light touchable, but pretty hot. The body was plenty warm by then too. Just at the edge of comfortable to me in the bare hand.

The IF25a was JUST bright enough at that setting tonight (40 clicks down) that I felt it was usable for your basic walk around the garden (looking for armadillos to “remove” from digging up the whole place lately- I have another light on my 22 rifle when needed there) Wink I also confirmed a double-click DID go to up from the ramping range “high” level- instantly to turbo.

I LOVE this little monster and it’s ability to really render a nice, even 4k beam. Still… I’d grab my Sofirn SF-33 (rev #2) for anything more than a few minutes out on a summer night. It has a nice wide beam too (but the IF25a is wider) and it runs on a good 5500mAh 26650 battery and gets out there pretty good throw wise too. Of course, it doesn’t fit as nicely into my lanky gym shorts pocket as the IF25a does, but it fits the hand nicely and it’s a trade-off for weight Vs heat.

I also love our stash of about five Sofirn SP-10s which I keep 10500 batteries in (instead of NmHs or Alkaleaks). That battery really drives those little lights nicely and they are great for walks. They are more blue (as the SF-33 also is), but not so bad you can tell much when outside trying to see around in the pitch black. If I had a true EDC light, it would probably be the SP-10 or something that size as it fits ANYWHERE but on a keychain.

ZappaMan

RB2021
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Zappaman wrote:
After several attempts to set a ramp ceiling on my IF25a that didn’t cook my hand…

I settled on 40 clicks DOWN from max in the ramp configuration (in smooth ramping). So the first blinks in the configuration are for the LOW end limit of the ramp. I clicked once for the “moon” (lowest) it will go. Then the next blinks come up running through the cycle, and are for the upper limit. I tried 20, 30 and finally 40 clicks where I left it for the test tonight.

I went out just 30 minutes ago, and waked around about 3 minutes on this upper ramp setting. It got pretty warm with the head of the light touchable, but pretty hot. The body was plenty warm by then too. Just at the edge of comfortable to me in the bare hand.

The IF25a was JUST bright enough at that setting tonight (40 clicks down) that I felt it was usable for your basic walk around the garden (looking for armadillos to “remove” from digging up the whole place lately- I have another light on my 22 rifle when needed there) Wink I also confirmed a double-click DID go to up from the ramping range “high” level- instantly to turbo.

I LOVE this little monster and it’s ability to really render a nice, even 4k beam. Still… I’d grab my Sofirn SF-33 (rev #2) for anything more than a few minutes out on a summer night. It has a nice wide beam too (but the IF25a is wider) and it runs on a good 5500mAh 26650 battery and gets out there pretty good throw wise too. Of course, it doesn’t fit as nicely into my lanky gym shorts pocket as the IF25a does, but it fits the hand nicely and it’s a trade-off for weight Vs heat.

I also love our stash of about five Sofirn SP-10s which I keep 10500 batteries in (instead of NmHs or Alkaleaks). That battery really drives those little lights nicely and they are great for walks. They are more blue (as the SF-33 also is), but not so bad you can tell much when outside trying to see around in the pitch black. If I had a true EDC light, it would probably be the SP-10 or something that size as it fits ANYWHERE but on a keychain.

I asked my same question on Reddit and toykeeper responding saying that Sofirn is basically using an old old demo version of anduril designed for the SP36 on all of their lights. The thermal config has been re-written several times since then. So basically they only sell lights with old buggy firmware and ignore the new updates. I wonder if it’s possible to update the SP36 and IF25A because they are my first two lights and I like them but I thought they’d be the last I would need. I’m unhappy with this temperature limit bug.

Funtastic
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Temp limit bug? Trick the sensor into thinking it’s colder and it’ll be fine.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz

Zappaman
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Funtastic wrote:
Temp limit bug? Trick the sensor into thinking it’s colder and it’ll be fine.

Yep, set it and forget it (once you find the right spot).

With this light being such a “hot little number”… my hand is the most accurate “thermal regulator” anyway. I found that limiting the ramping ceiling (right below “too hot” for my bare hand) is the easiest way to stay out of thermal hell Evil

ZappaMan

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RB2021 wrote:
I asked my same question on Reddit and toykeeper responding saying that Sofirn is basically using an old old demo version of anduril designed for the SP36 on all of their lights. [...]

Can you please send a link to this posting on Reddit?

“Everyone, deep in their hearts, is waiting for the end of the world to come.” (Haruki Murakami, 1Q84)

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roostre
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RB2021 wrote:
I asked my same question on Reddit and toykeeper responding saying that Sofirn is basically using an old old demo version of anduril designed for the SP36 on all of their lights...

The version of Anduril on my SP36 and Q8 behave slightly different in a few ways, so I do not believe that Sofirn is using the same version of Anduril on all of their lights.

The Anduril version on my Q8 includes the "15 Clicks from OFF" version query and returns a version date of 2019-09-28.  My SP36 does not respond to this version query.

After at least 15 clicks from OFF the version query will blink out the version date in the format of "YYYY MM DD" (Year Month Date) on some lights which use the Anduril user interface.  The "zeros" blink out as a very short blink to differentiate them from a normal length blink which would be a "one".

Below is a 2 minute video showing the version query on an Emisar D4v2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrAM7HylEA8

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

RB2021
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roostre wrote:

RB2021 wrote:
I asked my same question on Reddit and toykeeper responding saying that Sofirn is basically using an old old demo version of anduril designed for the SP36 on all of their lights…

The version of Anduril on my SP36 and Q8 behave slightly different in a few ways, so I do not believe that Sofirn is using the same version of Anduril on all of their lights.


The Anduril version on my Q8 includes the “15 Clicks from OFF” version query and returns a version date of 2019-09-28.  My SP36 does not respond to this version query.


After at least 15 clicks from OFF the version query will blink out the version date in the format of “YYYY MM DD” (Year Month Date) on some lights which use the Anduril user interface.  The “zeros” blink out as a very short blink to differentiate them from a normal length blink which would be a “one”.


Below is a 2 minute video showing the version query on an Emisar D4v2:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrAM7HylEA8

I can confirm the IF25A does not respond to 15 clicks from off. Nother happens except the aux light turns off for a second. Same thing as my SP36.

Edit I HAVE THE 4000K VERSION

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