[Closed]

No fancy meters here, but just eyeballing it on a white wall… my first light has a smaller hot spot and is obviously cooler than the recently received light. I like the last one best.

The spec of the new WK30S is ideal to me. I would be one of the first to buy it for sure. I found that some 5K LH351Ds lean towards green, so I’m looking forward to the 4K. Just hope it won’t take too long to produce.

At least the 5k one I had, was beautiful – no green. As long as no green, that’s my only concern, whether 4k or 5k.

I think 5000K is the option that appeals to the most consumers.

There aren’t enough lights out there with amber emitters though, just a thought. :slight_smile:

Wellp, just my 2¢…

I like the UI as-is. Simple and predictable for each channel. Other than the few odd bugs that were reported, I wouldn’t change the UI at all.

I’d more or less keep the reflectors. Deep reflector holes where each one cuts into the other two might be tolerable (and symmetric) if all the emitters are the same and all lit at the same time. Else each emitter (eg, red) will have a big “lobe” hanging off the side where the cutout is. Less hotspot, more spill. Yecch.

And the ’30 is a close-range flooder, frankly. The big-die ’351 pretty much assures this. And it’s perfect for what it does. Eg, low level UV to light up what’s right in front of you (eg, stamps, currency) and higher brightness for a hotel-room.

Me, I like the shape and grip of the light with the 26. Narrowing it to use a 21 does… what? Less capacity, less runtime… better grip? Anyone who likes, say, the SP33 as well as the WK30 knows how nicely a 26650 light fits the hand, despite being slightly bigger and heavier. I wouldn’t pocket a ’30 even with a 21, as the head would necessarily be wider. At least with the 26, it’s just a wider tubelight, and less of a plunger.

Photo-red? Meh. Okay, if someone needs deep red, but given the same output power (mW), Portland orange (“traffic red”) will appear brightest to the eye, then conventional red, then finally deep-red or photo-red the dimmest. I’ve got an old laser in deep red before more orangey “red” came into vogue (for precisely that reason: brightness), and while it’s a beautiful red red, it’s also pretty dim, relatively speaking.

So you know people will grex about the red emitter being dim, or demanding to run it harder, etc.

Texturing the grip I could do without. I like the stepped-hourglass profile for grip.

A lit switch could come in handy, but definitely not any “breathing” function. Used for battery-status, great! Dim dim dim dim dim red locator beacon, awesome! Maybe even a Nitecore style dim blink every coupla seconds. But now we’re either setting it in stone, or way overcomplicating the UI which is already semi-complicated for running 3 separate channels.

USB-C, mmmkay, but I could do without using a light as a charger. I want to be sure if plugged into anything, that it’d be charged, and not have charge siphoned off.

Add magnet, Constant Current driver and a crenellated bezel (Just enough to break a glass) and Wurkkos will have one of the most complete flashlights.

Overlapping reflector design is most likely only good for emitters of same model and tint.

Thank you guys for your honest und unbiased feedback. :THUMBS-UP:

  • CCT: It seems most people feel happy with the LH351D 5.000K 90CRI. A CCT of 5.000K is widely accepted as neutral white whereas 4.000K can be considered as too warm. So, let's keep the original LED.
  • Host: My initial idea was that 21700 cells have already achieved a capacity comparable to 26650 cells. Okay, there are some 5.500mAh cells (e.g. Keeppower) but these seem more and more difficult to get. OTOH, good 21700 cells have a better voltage curve when being discharged. I also like the idea to keep a buckdriver that supports both 2x CR123A (2x 3V) and 1x 18650/21700.
  • Illuminated switch: Sofirn usually illuminates the rubber boot that is placed above the switch. So, maybe this is something we can work with.
  • UI: Well, I was thinking about a second mode group using ramping instead of stepped modes - at least for white and red light. Direct access to turbo would also be interesting for me.
  • Reflector: Lightbringer and freeme are right about the downsides of using a triple reflector like C8F's for single LED operation. As a compromise, Wurkkos could max out the reflector diameters or - maybe worthwhile - increase the diameter for LH351D and keep/decrease the diameter for red and UV.

Change name to WK20 instead if its gonna use 21700 battery maybe?

WK20 is already reserved...

Mmmmnope.

:laughing:

At least with the wider tube, you can still be “backwards compatible” to use 21s and even 18s with sleeves (or even without, in a pinch), keeping the grip but losing the excess weight.

Lit switch might be nice, but in a limited sense, and turning beacons on/off again would complicate the UI, or you’d be forced to live with the out-of-the-box decision that’s hard-coded into it.

Some thoughts about hardware changes...

  • The (21700) tube design is disputable, agreed. However, I'd like to hear some more opinions. I still vote for 21700 as it may reduce weight, improve handling and the overall look of this "bumblebee" without sacrificing performance. IMHO, 26650 is about to vanish anyway.
  • I received some feedback from TLF members and many would like WK30 to be a bit more grippy. So, some knurling on the tailcap might be a good trade off between having "something different" and ensuring an easy way to turn the tailcap (even with wet hands).
  • Wurkkos seems to be implementing USB-C in all of their (upcoming) lights anyway. So, why not having the much more user-friendly plug-type here? Reverse charging could be a nice add-on for those who want to recharge their cellphone in an emergency situation.
  • A (removable) magnet in the tailcap has its pros and cons. Maybe selling a magnetic tailcap as an accessory (that fits more lights) could be a viable option?
  • Pushing the LH351D 5.000K 90CRI to its limits would also be in line with a better thermal design and a wider, deeper reflector.
  • The reflector geometry for red and UV light could remain untouched or even reduced to keep a wide angle beam profile. I agree that both red light and UV light may not make much sense to focus into a hotspot.
  • The lack of illumination underneath the switch button could be resolved by a dim red indicator light. There are plenty of ideas what can be done such as a locator beacon, blinking out voltage and many more. When using a multicolor LED, even more options will come true.

Concerning software changes I probably need another night to think about reasonable changes. So far, I rather favor single clicks to turn on/off the light and keep holding to ramp/step up and down.

Very very nice design and spec. Really appreciate it. Seeing from the last photo, is the deep red Led still used in this light?

Still liking your thinking on the changes. Single click on/off has to be in it.

Love the light, but I vote for 18650/21700 and a lit switch….

I like the 21700 tube. Single cell 26650 lights just seem out of proportion to me.
I think 4000K might be nice.
All the Best,
Jeff

Thank you guys! The concept in post #18 is being discussed between Sofirn and Wurkkos. Let’s see what they think about it.

Any changes that you wish for regarding the UI? Some people on TLF told me they want the doubleclick and tripleclick to work more slowly.

Lux, is it going to feature a deep red led? From the draft in post #18, looks like it’s going to use a normal red?

Nice, my vote goes to 21700 battery.

About USB port, for me outside port with rubber cover is a show stopper. If it is inside accessible after unscrewing head than good.