I think 5000K is the option that appeals to the most consumers.
There aren’t enough lights out there with amber emitters though, just a thought.
I think 5000K is the option that appeals to the most consumers.
There aren’t enough lights out there with amber emitters though, just a thought.
Wellp, just my 2¢…
I like the UI as-is. Simple and predictable for each channel. Other than the few odd bugs that were reported, I wouldn’t change the UI at all.
I’d more or less keep the reflectors. Deep reflector holes where each one cuts into the other two might be tolerable (and symmetric) if all the emitters are the same and all lit at the same time. Else each emitter (eg, red) will have a big “lobe” hanging off the side where the cutout is. Less hotspot, more spill. Yecch.
And the ’30 is a close-range flooder, frankly. The big-die ’351 pretty much assures this. And it’s perfect for what it does. Eg, low level UV to light up what’s right in front of you (eg, stamps, currency) and higher brightness for a hotel-room.
Me, I like the shape and grip of the light with the 26. Narrowing it to use a 21 does… what? Less capacity, less runtime… better grip? Anyone who likes, say, the SP33 as well as the WK30 knows how nicely a 26650 light fits the hand, despite being slightly bigger and heavier. I wouldn’t pocket a ’30 even with a 21, as the head would necessarily be wider. At least with the 26, it’s just a wider tubelight, and less of a plunger.
Photo-red? Meh. Okay, if someone needs deep red, but given the same output power (mW), Portland orange (“traffic red”) will appear brightest to the eye, then conventional red, then finally deep-red or photo-red the dimmest. I’ve got an old laser in deep red before more orangey “red” came into vogue (for precisely that reason: brightness), and while it’s a beautiful red red, it’s also pretty dim, relatively speaking.
So you know people will grex about the red emitter being dim, or demanding to run it harder, etc.
Texturing the grip I could do without. I like the stepped-hourglass profile for grip.
A lit switch could come in handy, but definitely not any “breathing” function. Used for battery-status, great! Dim dim dim dim dim red locator beacon, awesome! Maybe even a Nitecore style dim blink every coupla seconds. But now we’re either setting it in stone, or way overcomplicating the UI which is already semi-complicated for running 3 separate channels.
USB-C, mmmkay, but I could do without using a light as a charger. I want to be sure if plugged into anything, that it’d be charged, and not have charge siphoned off.
Add magnet, Constant Current driver and a crenellated bezel (Just enough to break a glass) and Wurkkos will have one of the most complete flashlights.
Overlapping reflector design is most likely only good for emitters of same model and tint.
Thank you guys for your honest und unbiased feedback. :THUMBS-UP:
Change name to WK20 instead if its gonna use 21700 battery maybe?
WK20 is already reserved...
Mmmmnope.
At least with the wider tube, you can still be “backwards compatible” to use 21s and even 18s with sleeves (or even without, in a pinch), keeping the grip but losing the excess weight.
Lit switch might be nice, but in a limited sense, and turning beacons on/off again would complicate the UI, or you’d be forced to live with the out-of-the-box decision that’s hard-coded into it.
Some thoughts about hardware changes...
Concerning software changes I probably need another night to think about reasonable changes. So far, I rather favor single clicks to turn on/off the light and keep holding to ramp/step up and down.
Very very nice design and spec. Really appreciate it. Seeing from the last photo, is the deep red Led still used in this light?
Still liking your thinking on the changes. Single click on/off has to be in it.
Love the light, but I vote for 18650/21700 and a lit switch….
I like the 21700 tube. Single cell 26650 lights just seem out of proportion to me.
I think 4000K might be nice.
All the Best,
Jeff
Thank you guys! The concept in post #18 is being discussed between Sofirn and Wurkkos. Let’s see what they think about it.
Any changes that you wish for regarding the UI? Some people on TLF told me they want the doubleclick and tripleclick to work more slowly.
Lux, is it going to feature a deep red led? From the draft in post #18, looks like it’s going to use a normal red?
Nice, my vote goes to 21700 battery.
About USB port, for me outside port with rubber cover is a show stopper. If it is inside accessible after unscrewing head than good.
Nothing is for sure yet. However, I could ask them to try testing Luminus‘ SST20-DR (660nm). This LED is can be driven up to 3A but I need to find out its Vf to see if it’s more sensitive than XP-E2 red.
Most people some to be happy with XP-E2 red, tough.
I fully agree that a USB-C port in the threads would be nice. But my fear is that the efforts for development and design change will outweigh the benefits of better longterm waterproofing.
Unno. If it absolutely has to have charging, I think I’d prefer the rubber flap over a weatherised connector. Why? Because port-in-threads means you’re still unscrewing the cap, and wearing down the O-rings. Might as well just pop out the cell and charge it externally, then.
Best would be a ring like on the Zanflare F1. Exposes the port, doesn’t wear down the main waterproofing O-rings.
Ok, so is USB waterproof itself and rubber cover just keeps dirt out?
Anyway I prefer no USB at all rather than rubber covered one.
O-ring is easy to replace, it is not used more than taking battery out and charging externally.
Rubber cover is usually almost impossible to replace.
For me light must be waterproof.
Is it really that hard to design? I see it is probably more expensive to manufacture.
Can it be done by plugging the end of the tube from head side and moving driver with charger there?
Tube would be longer but head would be shorter.