Modding a Brinyte BR3000 host 3XM-L T6/ 3- 8x7135 drivers and 3- 4/3AF NiMHs - build log IT'S FINISHED!

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Old-Lumens
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Modding a Brinyte BR3000 host 3XM-L T6/ 3- 8x7135 drivers and 3- 4/3AF NiMHs - build log IT'S FINISHED!

I have a Brinyte BR3000 host, (purchased from Chicago X, he has at least one or two of everything and wraps it like it will be dragged on a rope, to it's new destination, but it gets ther safe.Wink Thank goodness for Chicago X Laughing!).

I am going to turm it into a triple XM-L T6 light.  I thought I would show some photos and talk about what I am going to to and my thoughts on the host.

 

b1

 Here's the light torn apart. Overall the finish (ano) seems well done, but the threads are sub-standard for the original asking price of the light. Of course I don't like the Brinyte logo or that stupid outline of the battery showing all of us idiots that plus goes in first, so that will change. Overall I think it's a mediocre light. Not great, not terrible, but from what I read, the finished lights were terrible worknamship. Even worse than I normally do when I mess up leds and drivers! That's pretty bad!

 

 

b2

 The new color of the body will be a brown textured paint.

 

 

bh1

 The battery holder needs to be changed from Parallel to Series. I will need to strip it down and rework it. The + that is circled will be the + for the holder. The red lines show how the copper plate will be replaced with the stock one. The gray areas mean metal will not be there. The arrow and +/- mean that those contacts need to be together, so that the holder will be in series. I will need to make a plate inside going across those two spots.

bh2

 The same for the bottom - contact plate, as I already described above.

 

 

bh3

 This holder is really made very well. I know it's just plated steel and plated springs, but aside from that, the holder is made well. Screws hold the top and bottom plates to the uprights and they are made from a higher quality plastic than the normal cheapie holders. This holder will take more heat than the cheap ones and will not warp either.

 

bh4

 I will be using copper sheet for the new contact plates and gold plated springs. It should be a better holder when I am done and it will be series using three 4/3AF NiMH batteries. (same size as 18650)

As the note says, I will use three XM-L T6 leds and three 8x7135 drivers using TechJunkies wiring schematic.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

More on the battery holder mod.

bho1

The copper replacement contacts are cut and ready for forming.

 

bho2

First they have to be heat treated to soften them. I heat them until they appear silvery looking under the flame of the torch. When they cool you can see the discoloration from the heat.

 

bho3

I form the positive cups, by using small sockets and hammer the copper on soft wood to form the shape. I also soldered the gold springs in place. Next is final shaping, straightening and fitting to the plastic frame, as well as cleaning with steel wool, to remove the discoloration.

 

bho4

Making sure the contacts fit.

 

bho5

One end finished.

bho6

and the other side.

 

bho7

Battery holder completed and it reads 3.95vdc. It's still a Hack job, no matter how you look at it, but it should cut down on the battery holder resistance.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Paint & Polish is Done!

p1

p2

p3

I like the Brown Textured paint! This took a while. I painted the body and head, no problem. I removed the paint from the rings on the head, no problem. I stripped the bezel and tailcap, no problem, well maybe there is a problem. It's hard to describe, but the stripped parts looked like it's a different type of Aluminum. It had (and still does) have a whitish cast to it, that does not look good when polished. It looked "funky".

So... I thought I would try painting them with black. Nope, that looked really bad. Then I had to figure out how to strip the paint, Ok, I will just soak them in paint thinner, since the paint is freshly applied. Nope, no way, it didn't even phase that paint. Well, then I will try the degreaser that cuts Ano so well. Nope, didn't phase it one bit. I thought, hey this is some tough paint!

Then I remembered the Acetone on the lower shelf! Acetone, I have never used it for stripping paint. I use to clean parts. Man Oh Man, does it ever work! I put the parts in a plastic tub and I am not joking (I was watching the clock), it took all of 15 Seconds to lift the paint off completely! It didn't dissolve the paint, but the paint just lifted off in one piece. If you have ever seen that paint on water stuff (hydrographics), that's what it looked like. The paint lifted off as one sheet and I just pulled the parts out, clean as a whistle. Unbelievable!

Acetone is Nasty - Nastytone... So if you ever use it - Gloves, Respirator, Open air environment, eye protection, Be Careful. It's just plain nasty. I poured the Acetone back in the can and just wiped the paint off the bottom of the tub with a paper towel. One nice thing about Acetone is, it evaporates really fast, so the paper towel was dry within a minute.

Anyhow, the finished light ended up being brown, with "brushed aluminum". I just used steel wool on the bare metal and it looks pretty good.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finally Finished!

Here's some photos of the rest of the build:

3up1

I decided way before the emitters arrived, that I could never solder them, once they were in place. I came up with using a cardboard jig. I put double sided tape on it and stuck the emitters to the reflector bottom. Then I stuck them to the cardboard and removed the reflector. This allowed me to solder everything right here in the open. So much easier, in the long run!

 

 

3up2

I used solid wire (white wire) in between the emitters and it keeps the shape once the cardboard is removed. Now I can place the whole thing into the head of the light and use the reflector to center it all, while the Arctic Alumina dries.

 

3up3

Emitters are in place.

 

3up4

Here's how it looks with the reflector in place.

Look in Post #18, for the datails of the Driver assembly.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Beam Shots.

I am Not a beam shot guy. I can never show just how bright these lights are. My camera can't do long exposures and it sucks. Here's the best I can do and I can only say that these shots only show about HALF the brightness of this thing! It's a "wall of light" and it still reaches out to 100 yards and lights up an entire area at that distance! It's absolutely amazing just how bright this thing is!

b1

 

b2

Even thought the photo does not show it, this thing lighted up this area much brighter than daylight and it lit up the trees in the background, to where I could plainly see the detail! The background trees are about 40-50 yards away!

 

b3

I've done other shots of the pond, but this thing lit up the whole bank of trees on the other side and in reality it's about twice as bright as this photo. You can see that I need a new camera, but that's never going to happen.

b4

This one shows it a little better. That light made the whole end of the pond (the dam end and that's what I said when I turned it on, Damn! that's bright). I could clearly make out everything on the dam end of the pond and in the trees surrounding it. As I say, it's about twice as bright as the photo shows.

I sure as hell would not want to ever shine this thing in someone's eyes, unless I wanted to do some kind of permanent damage. It's way too bright for me to ever use and I don't think I will ever do another 3up. It's ridiculous and just not my type of light, but Damn it's bright!Laughing

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 05/10/2012 - 14:26
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Reserved

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Updated with more photos of the battery holder mod in the first post

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Awesome work , once again .

Cool

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Making flashlights with a hammer.......wow.

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Love it.

I am already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth.

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Amazing work.  This takes flashlight modding to a new level, at least for me.  

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Dang thats mighty impressive.  Ingenius work with the copper sheet.  I see that stuff at my local OSH and never would have thought about using it this way.

I had some 4/3AF NiMH cells I harvested from an industrial pack at work, unfortunately they were all no good.  Curious what is the power density of 3x 4/3AF in series compared to 3x 18650 in parallel?

thanks and nice job so far 

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kramer5150 wrote:

Dang thats mighty impressive.  Ingenius work with the copper sheet.  I see that stuff at my local OSH and never would have thought about using it this way.

I had some 4/3AF NiMH cells I harvested from an industrial pack at work, unfortunately they were all no good.  Curious what is the power density of 3x 4/3AF in series compared to 3x 18650 in parallel?

thanks and nice job so far 

3x18650, depending on which ones and if they are matched, should have more mah than the NiMH. These are supposed to be "Sanyo", but I'm betting they are not. Not according to the generic green label with no info on them. Listed as 4500mah.

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Chicago X wrote:

Making flashlights with a hammer.......wow.

You should see what I can do with a sledge hammer, of course I can't pick it up any more.

I am probably going to make a new set of contact plates and not bother with the raised area for the + contacts. Since these are flat top batteries, it's not necessary, just flat contacts would be better.

 

Edit: Actually I should have said "Can't touch this".

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Actually, I suspect Chicago has more flashlights than he lets on.  Fess up W . . . how many ya got?

 

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Photos of the paint scheme in the first post now.

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Awesome! 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

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Old-Lumens wrote:

kramer5150 wrote:

Dang thats mighty impressive.  Ingenius work with the copper sheet.  I see that stuff at my local OSH and never would have thought about using it this way.

I had some 4/3AF NiMH cells I harvested from an industrial pack at work, unfortunately they were all no good.  Curious what is the power density of 3x 4/3AF in series compared to 3x 18650 in parallel?

thanks and nice job so far 

3x18650, depending on which ones and if they are matched, should have more mah than the NiMH. These are supposed to be "Sanyo", but I'm getting they are not. Not according to the generic green label with no info on them. Listed as 4500mah.

Most excellent metal craftsmanship. Thought I was the only 4/3AF user on the forum. Keep up the good work! Smile

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That's sweet! I have one coming from Chicago also.

Now I gotta go pimp my DRY...

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You never cease to amaze me OL

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Amazing.

Didn't think a Dry could be good looking . . .

 

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Waiting on emitters - Again!

I received my orders from CNQG and KD. My three XM-L 1C turned out to be two 1C and the third one is something totally unknown, not even the same star. Not worth going thru the hassle. I have more ordered anyhow, but Again, it's 2-3 weeks out!

Glad I wasn't depending on this light to work soon! What a bunch of s**t........

 

I'm done bitchin now,

For a few minutes.

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I am doing this light with TJ's Master/Slave setup, to retain the lower voltage, so I can use 3 NiMHs. I have put up a few photos of how I have wired these drivers, to fit in the base of the head.

If it's right, then it's at least. a view from a different perspective.

If it's wrong, then at least some of you guys will chime in Before I put it all together and fry three drivers and emitters? Maybe?

tri1

These three drivers would not fit laying flat, in the head. I had to do a little massaging on the edges, to make them fit in a smaller circle, by sanding some flats, where they came together and at the edges, where they touched the inside of the head. Since they all have to be grounded together, I just soldeded the edges, so they would be one solid mass and it was much easier to handle.

tri2

Here's how they look sitting inside the head's driver recess.

tri3

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

tri4

The wires here are solid 22ga teflon coated wire. I decided on solid, because it was much easier in this application. I could form them and hold them down with masking tape, while I soldered them in place. The closest board is the master and even though it looks like it's soldered to the LED+ pad, it's soldered to the first pin of the 7135 chip. There's just a hairs breadth clearance there and I will flow some Arctic Alumina to cover in between that pad and the wires, to make sure there isn't going to be any contact. In fact, I will cover all the connections with a touch of AA for my peace of mind.

 

tri5

The RED marks are where I cut the pins to the controllers, on the slave boards. I thank DrJones for clarifying that for me. It's SO much easier to cut those legs, than to remove all that crap off the slave boards.

 

 

tri6

Here's the wiring finished. The green wires are the negatives from the LED- pads and will go out to the negative sides of the emitters.

 

 

tri7

The Positive (Red) and Negative (Green) on this side of the Master board, go to the battery positive and body ground, via the Brynite contact plate that fits over the driver recess, in the head.

 

I have to say, that this is the most stressful part of modding, for me. I am not good with a soldering iron on these tiny connections. Mostly due to the problems (steadiness & eyesight), inherent in getting older (for me anyhow). I am using a lighted magnifyer now and for this go round, I held the boards on the table with masking tape, so I could put both arms down flat on the table, to help steady the iron. It worked better and I "think" it will hold as it should. Time will tell.

I feel I need to do whatever I can, to make this work, If I absolutely cannot, then at least I can say I have tried all I know to do. Foolish pride and the (it's a guy thing), does not allow me to let it go, nor to give it to someone else to do it for me. I wasn't taught that way and I'm not about to change now. Right or wrong... I can always go back to bare hosts and just doing the cosmetic stuff. In fact I will be doing some more of them, but not till fall, since it's getting way too warm already. I'm trying to finish up these more complicated mods and get them out of the way, before the summer heat hits full on.

Anyhow..... I'm off my soapbox and back to work.

Carry On.

 

 

 

 

 

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I got my order from CNQG (actually from fancylights.com) and now I have the U2 emitters to finish this build.

Unfortunatley my computer crashed on Sunday and we lost internet connection today! Suddenlink says it will be a week before they can come out, so no internet till the week-end (maybe). Hopefully my puter will be back in line by then as well. I can only post here, at work, so no photos. I will have to update some time next week, but it will be done and hopefully, up for sale by then.

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The mods look great O-L.

For all of the complaining about the soldering, it looks pretty darn good...

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Chicago X wrote:

The mods look great O-L.

For all of the complaining about the soldering, it looks pretty darn good...

What fun is there in life, if I can't complain? Tongue Out

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WOW!!! thats very impressive, great work.  Anxiously waiting to see the final result.

Curious... (stupid question warning!) does the EPROM on the slave bords remained powered on?  Why don't you cut the power and ground legs too?

thanks!!

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I got my host from Chicago X in the meantime and just to let y'all know, the flat gray is really nice and IMO looks much better that the black DRY finish.

Nice work! I'm interested if you sell this one.

Rich

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kramer5150 wrote:

WOW!!! thats very impressive, great work.  Anxiously waiting to see the final result.

Curious... (stupid question warning!) does the EPROM on the slave bords remained powered on?  Why don't you cut the power and ground legs too?

thanks!!

What's an EPROM (just kidding).

 I did it this way because I had asked a member here, DrJones, about it and he stated that cutting the one leg was the easiest way to go. If it isn't, then I can do different. I do not know the benefits or concequences of any of it. I can understand + and - and electricity runs thru it, but after that I might as well be listening to someone talking about quantum physics for all I know. I would not think the EPROM has to be there at all, but I certainly do not want to try to remove it, unless I cut all the legs. I'm certain that I'm not going to attempt to desolder it.

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The light is done! I can certainly say that this is probably the best job I have done so far, on soldering drivers and emitters. It's much easier when it's all laid out where I can put both arms on the table, to steady myself.

This is definitely the brightest thing I have ever seen. The U2 emitters are cool white and I really like that for Outside lighting. I prefer neutral to warm indoors, but Cool white seems better for outdoors (to me).

I am putting this up for sale now. I don't think it will sell. Unfortunately, it's going to be too high priced for a budget light. Between the host, 3 U2 leds, 3 driver boards and 3- 4/3AF NiMHs, it's going to have to sell for aroung a "hunnerd" bucks and I think that's out of the ballpark, but I cannot afford to take the hit unless I want to stop modding for a couple months to recoup the loss. Oh well, life's what it is. Stick with the bare bones hosts and give up trying to compete with Chinese wholesalers that sell stuff like this for less than half the price...

But it was fun doing it...Laughing

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Nice work! You did good with the soldering also.

I'm good at it-used to work in defense electronics-(you think flashlights are small?!) but I'm suffering the same fate; lousy vision and the shakes sometimes. Right after a yoga class, when I'm all warm and relaxed, is a good time to solder.

Rich

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Hi OL. Just saw this again. You certainly did good on soldering those boards up. I recently managed to stack 3 extra 7135 chips onto an 8 pce 7135 board for the first time. I felt like a winner after I hooked it up and it worked. Turns out a bit of locktite helps a lot.

And that was done merely days after I cr**ped a whole driver board up. Still dont really know how I did it but it would consistently be inconsistent when changing modes. It even invented some modes I've never heard about. But that is where I had the extra chips from.

Just out of curiosity - what runtime do you expect to get/are you getting with these here 3/4 doohickey something or other batteries? I havent ever seen something like that before. And in what charger do you recharge them?? They dont fit any charger that I have (with that voltage anyway).

 

Sorry about all the questions OL but you make interesting lights that raise interesting questions Smile Hope you dont mind.

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Ledsmoke wrote:

Hi OL. Just saw this again. You certainly did good on soldering those boards up. I recently managed to stack 3 extra 7135 chips onto an 8 pce 7135 board for the first time. I felt like a winner after I hooked it up and it worked. Turns out a bit of locktite helps a lot.

And that was done merely days after I cr**ped a whole driver board up. Still dont really know how I did it but it would consistently be inconsistent when changing modes. It even invented some modes I've never heard about. But that is where I had the extra chips from.

Just out of curiosity - what runtime do you expect to get/are you getting with these here 3/4 doohickey something or other batteries? I havent ever seen something like that before. And in what charger do you recharge them?? They dont fit any charger that I have (with that voltage anyway).

 

Sorry about all the questions OL but you make interesting lights that raise interesting questions Smile Hope you dont mind.

4/3AF NiMH  Used more for packs, or for industrial. 1.2v 4500ma but a high discharge rating.

I would think anyone with a Hobby Charger, would be able to charge them right in the holder. 3.6v that way, or as singles. I use a "modified" "D" cell charger. They are just a tad longer than "D" NiMHS.

Run time?? I haven't got a clue, but I would expect less than 15-20 minutes on high and much longer on medium or low. Low is VERY LOW, so it might run for days on low.

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Hi Old-Lumens,

What a work of art. Truly impressive. You've inspired me to redo the 3xAA battery holder on my Cyclone C88. May I ask what thickness copper plating you used?

Regarding your Brinyte, could someone use 3 18650s or would that more properly be used with another meaning of the word "torch"?

Best Wishes, Daniel

Blinded? BUY the light!

scaru
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Joined: 03/22/2012 - 13:36
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Location: Virginia

blinded wrote:

Hi Old-Lumens,

What a work of art. Truly impressive. You've inspired me to redo the 3xAA battery holder on my Cyclone C88. May I ask what thickness copper plating you used?

Regarding your Brinyte, could someone use 3 18650s or would that more properly be used with another meaning of the word "torch"?

Best Wishes, Daniel

Correct me if I'm wrong but you could run it off of 1 18650 in that holder, or if you get a parallel battery holder than you can run 3 of them.  

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