What did you mod today?

:+1: I read a lot and post very little.

Also swapped Osram W2s into a FW3A, my first emitter swap. I love the W2 emitter. Love the torch labs clips too. Their 1” clip just took a little sanding on the inner diameter to fit and the Convoy had to be drilled and tapped. The convoy next to the FW3A was modded by Skylumen with an sbt90.

Looks good :wink:
BTW, are you using Carclo 10507 or 10511?

:+1: 10507, I think its my favorite.

Nice, it will also give it some throw! :wink: Well done!!

Greetings 1313.

Nice work on the Tool and the FW3A.

Would love to see some beam comparisons of the W2 against whatever you have that might compare well.

Beasmshots to follow, thanks for the feedback :beer:

This is the switch I used for the Tool AA 2.0. Not the prettiest work but dropped right in afterwards.

Finally have a warm thrower. XPL HD 3000k in a Astrolux C8. Too lazy to slice it so it’ll stay an HD. And it’s not as warm as I thought it would be. Kinda disappointed but also happy about it.

I was organizing pics and noticed this solder problem.
.

.
Thinking it may cause this.

.
So I purchased this to maybe prevent a repeat.

.

Olight Seeker2 PRO emitter swapped to 219C 5700K 90CRI

Compared to also modded M2R PRO 4500K 90CRI


Finished my 3D-printed Yogurt Lantern.

More details later in the Yogurt Lantern thread.

I like the ingenuity.

kiriba-ru C8TT head + (Mtnelectronics) Ano Stripped Convoy C8+ body + (led4power) 6A LDA4 driver + (azhu) Nichia 219b 4500K triple on led4power mcbcpb + BlueSword Driver/Tailcap Springs v3

This my favorite BLF build so far

I know how you feel ;) (it's in German)

Yes I hope he changes his mind and does more stuff like this. I would like a 21700 and a smaller battery (14500,16340,18350 maybe) “kit” with appropriately sized custom TIR heads.

This week’s mods are all about pocket clips.

For years, the first thing I did to a light when I got it was perform a “clipectomy”. After all, my standard practice was to carry my light loose in my pocket with my keys and some kleenix. A clip was just deadweight so removing it was the first thing I did.

I made an exception for a few lights. Zebralights like the SC6x series have a fixed mount with sharp corners, they’re pretty horrible without the clip. Also the FW3A clip serves as a handy anti-roll device.

However, with Covid shelter-in-place, I find myself spending more time working from home. Instead of slacks with stuffed pockets I often find myself wearing sweatpants or shorts with almost nothing in them. I found that using a pocket clip to attach my light to the outside of my pants is more comfortable than carrying it in an empty pocket. I still wear slacks and carry my light safely in my pocket if I have to leave the house, but household use the clip is really nice.

So I went around gathering pocket clips and reinstalling them in many of my favorite lights. Some hilights:

  • FW3A clip - extremely nice. Slips on and off easily and feels secure and low-profile.
  • Original D4 clip - not bad, but feels a bit flimsy.
  • New version D4 clip - better. Feels stronger than the original D4 clip. Works well with the 18650 tube, but not so much with the 18500 tube.
  • Jetbeam RRT-01 long clip - excellent. Slips on and off easily and feels secure. However, may scrape up the head when changing the battery in the 2012 model RRT-01 and TCR-01. Works well in 2019 and 2020 versions where the clip does not touch the head so no risk of damaging the finish.
  • Jetbeam RRT-01 short clip - excellent. Slips on and off easily and feels secure. Low profile and does not scratch up the head. Does not work well on 2019 RRT-1 since lip is too close to indent in the battery tube.

Since my 2200 mAh Vapcell 18500s arrived, I find myself using the 18500 tube on my FW3A and D4v2.

  • The stock FW3A clip works very well with 18500 tube.
  • Both versions of the D4v2 clip weren’t quite satisfactory with the D4v2. The head caused the tip to stick out and dig into my thigh when on pants or palm when held in hand. Neither were low profile.
  • I went through my supply of clips and tried various different ones on the D4v2 looking for one I was satisfied with. Ended up scratching up my 18500 battery tubes and the bottom of the head.
  • The clip that works best on the D4v2 with 18500 tube seems to be the stock FW3A clip. Installed at the back of the battery tube below the o-ring. This caused the tailcap to not make electrical contact with the body tube. This was easily fixed by installing a thin strip of copper bent into a c-ring at the bottom of the battery tube.

Agreed. Also my favorite for the standard 18650 tube. I found the FW3A deep carry clip perfect on the D4 with the 18350 tube too, fwiw.

The properties of the Zanflare F6 were better in the (good) manual than in real life.
The whistle is totally useless, even for those who think it might be a dog’s whistle (which it isn’t)
And the magnet looses a lot of it’s power in the ferrous compound of the tailcap

So off they go. Starring in this R-rated story are, in order of appearance:
a hacksaw, a bench grinder, a grinding stone, fine sandpaper, and some polishing compound.

It’s almost 10 mm shorter now, and I’m starting to like it.

Wow, looking sharp Wim !

Modded my first series copper Convoy S2+ again. Actually you might say I re-re-lego-ed it.
What I kept from the original: all copper parts, the O-rings, the lens, and the opaque tailcap rubber.

What came in: the long smooth reflector from an older type (UV) Convoy S2,
the XP-L hi emitter was swapped with a flat white emitter I got from Yokiamy,
the standard pill was swapped with a short version from an older type Convoy S2,
the thick butterfly centering was swapped with a flattened round centering ring

an X6/X5 bistro driver went in, and the 8*7135 biscotti driver that came out went to Yokiamy,
the standard switch was swapped with one from the Astrolux S41, added 3mm led and 1k resistor,
and the standard washer was swapped with a nylon M8 washer I got from a local DIY-store.

I got: a reasonably throwy tube light with a nice hotspot. And while I suspect my LX1010B luxmeter displays values that are too low, the output is raised from 19 kCd with XP-L to 28 kCd with white flat.


With thanks to Yokiamy for swapping his flat white emitter for my biscotti driver.
You might say it was the prequel to his WTT Flashlight Trading Topic thread.

One of the victims (under UV light) is shown below.

I “might” have got greedy with my LH351D dedomming :smiley: :smiley: :person_facepalming:

Seriously though, i had already had a decent go sanding it down, but i wasnt happy with the tint.
After a great morning run of dedoming 5-6 x SST20 free hand with a razor, i decided to see how far i could go on the Samsung.
I have more i can reflow, i was interested to see how low i could go.
Still lights up, just very blue as you can imagine.

As for other projects.
I dedomed another LH351D 5000k R90 so low i can basically touch the phosphor. The tint, colour and throw is amazing!
Built it into a Convoy C8+ with a DrJones triple channel driver and its simply amazing.
Beam and light similar to a XPL HI, but amazing tint and great CRI. Cant wait to take it out for a night walk.

Otherwise, ive done about a dozen LED swaps and misc builds in the past month while working from home.
Lots of triples, lots of E21A builds. I think my nightstand has 12 lights by its self, going to the toilet at night has never required so much thought!
Fallen in love with ~2700k CCT again, really like this XPL HI R80 i picked up from MTN.

Ive got a $300 order from Hank arriving tomorrow, cant wait!

Anyone used the 5400K Osram 2mm flat whites that seem to be floating around? Any downsides over the typical 6000k?
Ive got a few on the way, looking forward to some big throwers that arent 6000k+ !!