Skilhunt E3A (AAA twisty) - First Look

Can the bracket of the polarity protection be pulled out of the pill? Or will it break?

I have not realized that this light is as small as the i3E, if not smaller! Should get one.

I’ll try again today. Didn’t have much time to play with it last night.

Dammit, I hoped for a real thermal path.
Thanks for the pics gchart!

Ok guys… another quick teardown. As it turns out, there is NO GLUE. What I saw as glue was actually thermal paste between the board and the pill. The white clip can carefully be removed. After doing so, the board comes right off. That entire area that is covered in silkscreen is a big thermal area. So while this isn’t a MCPCB, it has a big thermal path right to the pill and is covered in thermal paste. For 100 lumens, that seems sufficient. LED swaps would be difficult though… perhaps with hot air reflow.

EDIT: looks like the IC is the tried and true PAM2803
The resistor says 043 (underlined). If I understand correctly, that would mean R043 = 0.043 Ohms. But for a PAM2803, that would mean a LED current of 2.2A which certainly isn’t right. If it were a 0.43 Ohm resistor, that would make sense… translating to an LED current of 220 mA.

Thanks for the “deconstruction” gchart! Seems like the original setup is made to “stay as it is” ! And with a nice led, I guess it is not bad at all :wink:
Nice light! :+1:

Thanks a lot!

The i3E could be placed in the pan right on the contact pad to reflow the LED. I’d try the same here.

You could probably kapton tape the components on either side of the positive contact button too.



On a side note, the “Red” in the above pictures doesn’t look anything like the promotional pictures.

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Hey gchart, is that the real color Red? Look more like tan/brown to me. The color does not look like Red on their Amazon listing or website.
Anw nice color options though.

Sorry, I messed with my camera settings in my initial images and I’m colorblind so I have no idea how accurate the colors are.

Here’s one I just took. Outdoors (obviously) under a direct noon sun sitting next to some ripe tomatoes. Default image settings on my Pixel 3. How’s this look?

I hope I never lose this one in the grass because I’ll never be able to find it :weary:

:person_facepalming: :smiling_imp: :smiling_imp: :smiling_imp: :+1:

Hmm…. Hats off for your skills. I have no words. Such a sexy photo. Hahaha

much better, initial pictures were favoring a burnt orange color

You will. If you own a C01R.

@contactcr, I need to get this tape anyway :+1:

Interesting… the deep red light of the C01R would help a colorblind person distinguish between red and green?

Thanks for the interesting teardown.

Just curious, do you think that boost converter could be used with a UV-C LED with ~6V Vf? I could not find a Vout max in the datasheet.

The grass won’t reflect much light as opposed to the flashlight. No color vision needed.

Edit: Tried it. The theory was good at least :smiley: :person_facepalming:

Good question. It looks like the ratings top out at 6V. As long as you don’t go over 6V it might work.

The posts at this link seem to think the same: led driver - Driving two leds with PAM2803 - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange

So it didn’t really work?

I would have hoped for a result similar to in this test with an artificially colored surface:

Notice in the normal photo which squares on the toy are red and which are green, then compare how those squares appear in the photo lit by the C01R.

Very interesting light, the knurling is a nice change of pace. Thanks for the tear down.

LH351B is a peculiar choice though. :open_mouth:

Cactus vs. red C01 (same anodization as C01R): undecided. The cactus reflected a lot of red light, the red flashlight reflected surprisingly little red light.

Real tiny AAA twisty!
I just ordered one slate blue NW from AE to see how it goes. 8.65 euros shipped looks like a good deal.
Thanks for pointing it out.