~~ENDED~~ [US Only] Free Thrunite Ti3 v2 on Thrunite.com (with $5.95 shipping fee)

:smiley: Additional 5% discount code - THRUNITE

The original Thrunite Ti was what got me introduced to modern flashlights and BLF as well. I think they were offering it for $5 that time. Ordered one CW with absolutely no need of a new light!

Just got the light in CW. It’s good, and I appreciate different levels on a small light.

There are really sharp corners on the feature used to hold the keychain ring. I think that may get to be a problem. It’d be uncomfortable in the pocket. It’s actually so sharp it’s uncomfortable on the hand.


sharp!

Unno, maybe without the keyring in there it’d end up poking you in all the wrong places, but with a ring in there, I don’t think anything would get close enough to the pointy part, would it?

If you carry it in your pocket with other things, you know the anodizing will wear. Might as well file that area down (round the edges) to your liking. It will feel better now and then the rest of the light will catch up later :FACEPALM: .

Just got my NW example today. Ordered 3 more because I really like it. Was going to say that I really like the improvement with the V2 CW over my Ti3 CW from 2016. It is noticeably brighter and all modes are just a tad more useful. The moonlight might be just a tad too bright but it is still very nice. The CW is fine and I think the beam pattern is excellent for what it is. Nice large soft bright spot and good spill. Decent tint that is not too cool. However, I really like the NW better. Pretty much a taste thing I guess.

If I wore a baseball cap regularly I don’t think I would ever go back to a headlamp for dog walking. This light clipped on to a cap is a fantastic headlamp! Of course it can be easy to twist the clip off when changing modes. Managed to drop it onto concrete a time or two until I remembered that. Doing the Lightbringer trick of cleaning and fresh lube helps.

So far all of my V2s have no memory or perhaps a 2.5 second memory. My V1 works like the chart on the store page. Off for less than 2 seconds advance to next mode. Off 2 to 10 seconds memory. Off more than 10 seconds back to low. With the V2 if the light is on for more than 2 or 3 seconds, off goes back to Low. There is no memory. I am fine with this. I like the way V1 works better but over all the V2 is just a better light and I can live with this because it is consistent and works well for this kind of light. Also, there seems to be less inadvertent advancement to the next mode which used to drive me nuts with the V1.

FWIW, earlier today I went to get more of the NW and they were sold out. Said try again tomorrow so I tried just a bit ago and it worked.

Wade

So after I posted the picture I put the ring on it to see if it solves the issue as you suggested. Not really. The ring only covers one side of the L. The non-chamfered edges of that L is really sharp.

This is the first light I’ve noticed sharp edges on.

for the money invested just break out a file and knock down the sharp edges .Finish up with some fine grit sandpaper and then buff it to a shine .

Or you could add a trit to the hole . glue it in and add a magnet that covered the tail.

I'm not a huge fan of sharp edges either but these didn't seem to be jumping out at me like sharp ends of a clicky .Could be the fact I'm messing more with the head on a twisty than the tail.

Got my 5 CW models in 2 days I started going thru them to see if somehow I'd won the tint lottery but after three realized it was probably more about the anti reflective lens coating than actual tint. So I decided to add some 1/8th minus green lee filter which immediately made the tint go from ehhh/ meh... to much better . A quick 2 minute mod that made these lights much nicer.

When deciding which tint to keep or not to keep I realized the differences weren't going to be tint .. rather the moon/ firefly modes . One light had a markedly dimmer low mode ..about half of the other two I was playing with . Now I'll have to go and see if it is the only one or not . Most lows are acceptably low lows at about a half a lumen maybe less ..but one is like half of that .. a true fire fly .

Thrunite in the past is pretty well known for having really good low lows .

tint is good and low is crazy low ... I'm a happy camper

I am amazed at the amount of quality machining delivered at this price. OTOH it is probably a good investment on ThruNite’s part.

Have been carrying one in my pocket for a couple of days now. Didn’t notice. Looked at it again and it is indeed sharp. Looking at my 2016 one it has everything except the trit from said pocket(s)

Thanks for pointing that out! Moonlight is important to me. I will be checking mine as well! On the one hand I don’t know if I can truly discern tint and don’t think it is all that important. On the other I am truly thinking of applying that wisdom to the NW versions because I really want a low moonlight but I like the NW tint. Would have no idea of what was different or how to correct it with film that I don’t have.

Could you measure the reflector size? Maybe I could find a TIR that could fit…

I get an OD of 11.74mm and it is 6.12mm deep. Hope that helps.

xevious, what a great idea for strobe use.

obviously, i couldn’t come up with it myself.

the simplest solutions usually are the best.

I just had to do it, I swapped out the emitter for a shaved 3500k LH351D 90cri. Lumens down to about 80 lumens using a Ladda AAA (Eneloop pro). Well worth the swap to me.
While I was in there I had a look at that driver. The driver uses 3 resistors for the modes similar to the tool AAA.
High is just a current limiting resistor .075 ohms for use with a 10440 i presume. With a AAA its in boost mode so the resistor isn’t really doing much and could probably be omitted if your only going to use a AAA Nimh or alkaline.
Med uses a 1R2 1.2 ohms resistor
Low or moonlght uses a 200 ohm resistor in the 0402 size (tiny) . I tried using a 470 ohm resistor and that was a little to low, more like a very weak firefly mode. A actually firefly would probably give of more light than what my light using a 470 ohm resistor did, I can barely even tell its on unless its in a dark area. My guess would be if you want a lower low change the resistor to some where in the 250 ohms range or maybe higher if you like low really low. If the factory low is to low for your already, change it to something lower, guessing 170 ohms depending on high bright of a low you like.
.
I dont have any pics as I was just in there to do a emitter swap and one thing lead to another, maybe in a few days when I get some resistors to play with I’ll take a few pics.
The resistors are not hard to spot though. There all connected to the negative led wire. I think the high and med resistors are 0603 size and they will be soldered directly to the led negative wire. The low resistor in 0402 size is right beside them (unmarked) and has a trace that runs to the led negative wire. You can check it with a DMM, it should read 200 ohms or at least mine did.
If anyone is interested I can take a few pics showing more details.
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Update: The 470 ohm resistor I tried wasn’t 470 ohm. It was 47K, a little mix up in the resistor box. :person_facepalming:
So I guess that explains why it was such a low glow.

Yes, yes, please. I was tempting to do an emitter swap either SST-20 or LH351D. I prefer Samsung since it more efficient and floodier.
Can we get a beam shot, please?

Im going to swap in a Samsung Red LH351H in one of these , hopefully soon. I’ll take a few pics this time. :+1:

I bought two with the NW emitter, before I read this thread, then I worried I should have ordered the CW version. But I received the lights today, and I’m very satisfied with the NW tints. There might be a bit of purple at the edges of the corona, but other than that, I think the tints look very nice. Not too yellow for me, either - and I like the output levels, too. These things will be handy.

The T1 is tempting too.

Yeah, I know what you mean, but I can’t use lights with non-removable magnets attached, so I have to pass that one up.

I almost pulled the trigger on the T1 also. I have so many of these small type lights already, I slowly moved my finger off the trigger and ordered the Ti3.

I went for the green T1 in NW. It’s a great size, the magnet is strong (if that’s a good thing for you), the switch feels and works wonderfully, it handles heat quite well, and it’s got a great clip. It’s a pretty nice little light, though does have some flaws.

First, it’s length makes unprotected 18350 batteries barely fit; the battery it comes with is much longer - and even with it it’s possible to get the light to flicker if accidentally banged hard enough, making the battery rattle and disconnect from the button in the head.

Second, there’s no way to go from moonlight to ramping. The light must be turned off and then back on, where the light will return to the memory setting within the ramp.

Third, the ramping is a bit slow, but more frustrating, it always goes in the opposite direction from the last use. So unless you remember which way you ramped the last time you used the light, you’re never sure which way it will ramp the next time you use it. Being that the ramp is slow, it takes a moment to determine if the ramping is going the direction you want.

Fourth, it’s OVERLY floody. Some may like this, but comparing it to lights with less than half its power (like the Olight S1 Mini), it uses up all its extra lumens and larger battery capacity to get the same intensity. Unless your peripheral vision is astoundingly good, you’ll wish some of that flood was more focused.

Ordered nw one. Just saw this thread. Thanks. Can you reverse the clip for use on cap?