~~ENDED~~ [US Only] Free Thrunite Ti3 v2 on Thrunite.com (with $5.95 shipping fee)

I am amazed at the amount of quality machining delivered at this price. OTOH it is probably a good investment on ThruNite’s part.

Have been carrying one in my pocket for a couple of days now. Didn’t notice. Looked at it again and it is indeed sharp. Looking at my 2016 one it has everything except the trit from said pocket(s)

Thanks for pointing that out! Moonlight is important to me. I will be checking mine as well! On the one hand I don’t know if I can truly discern tint and don’t think it is all that important. On the other I am truly thinking of applying that wisdom to the NW versions because I really want a low moonlight but I like the NW tint. Would have no idea of what was different or how to correct it with film that I don’t have.

Could you measure the reflector size? Maybe I could find a TIR that could fit…

I get an OD of 11.74mm and it is 6.12mm deep. Hope that helps.

xevious, what a great idea for strobe use.

obviously, i couldn’t come up with it myself.

the simplest solutions usually are the best.

I just had to do it, I swapped out the emitter for a shaved 3500k LH351D 90cri. Lumens down to about 80 lumens using a Ladda AAA (Eneloop pro). Well worth the swap to me.
While I was in there I had a look at that driver. The driver uses 3 resistors for the modes similar to the tool AAA.
High is just a current limiting resistor .075 ohms for use with a 10440 i presume. With a AAA its in boost mode so the resistor isn’t really doing much and could probably be omitted if your only going to use a AAA Nimh or alkaline.
Med uses a 1R2 1.2 ohms resistor
Low or moonlght uses a 200 ohm resistor in the 0402 size (tiny) . I tried using a 470 ohm resistor and that was a little to low, more like a very weak firefly mode. A actually firefly would probably give of more light than what my light using a 470 ohm resistor did, I can barely even tell its on unless its in a dark area. My guess would be if you want a lower low change the resistor to some where in the 250 ohms range or maybe higher if you like low really low. If the factory low is to low for your already, change it to something lower, guessing 170 ohms depending on high bright of a low you like.
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I dont have any pics as I was just in there to do a emitter swap and one thing lead to another, maybe in a few days when I get some resistors to play with I’ll take a few pics.
The resistors are not hard to spot though. There all connected to the negative led wire. I think the high and med resistors are 0603 size and they will be soldered directly to the led negative wire. The low resistor in 0402 size is right beside them (unmarked) and has a trace that runs to the led negative wire. You can check it with a DMM, it should read 200 ohms or at least mine did.
If anyone is interested I can take a few pics showing more details.
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Update: The 470 ohm resistor I tried wasn’t 470 ohm. It was 47K, a little mix up in the resistor box. :person_facepalming:
So I guess that explains why it was such a low glow.

Yes, yes, please. I was tempting to do an emitter swap either SST-20 or LH351D. I prefer Samsung since it more efficient and floodier.
Can we get a beam shot, please?

Im going to swap in a Samsung Red LH351H in one of these , hopefully soon. I’ll take a few pics this time. :+1:

I bought two with the NW emitter, before I read this thread, then I worried I should have ordered the CW version. But I received the lights today, and I’m very satisfied with the NW tints. There might be a bit of purple at the edges of the corona, but other than that, I think the tints look very nice. Not too yellow for me, either - and I like the output levels, too. These things will be handy.

The T1 is tempting too.

Yeah, I know what you mean, but I can’t use lights with non-removable magnets attached, so I have to pass that one up.

I almost pulled the trigger on the T1 also. I have so many of these small type lights already, I slowly moved my finger off the trigger and ordered the Ti3.

I went for the green T1 in NW. It’s a great size, the magnet is strong (if that’s a good thing for you), the switch feels and works wonderfully, it handles heat quite well, and it’s got a great clip. It’s a pretty nice little light, though does have some flaws.

First, it’s length makes unprotected 18350 batteries barely fit; the battery it comes with is much longer - and even with it it’s possible to get the light to flicker if accidentally banged hard enough, making the battery rattle and disconnect from the button in the head.

Second, there’s no way to go from moonlight to ramping. The light must be turned off and then back on, where the light will return to the memory setting within the ramp.

Third, the ramping is a bit slow, but more frustrating, it always goes in the opposite direction from the last use. So unless you remember which way you ramped the last time you used the light, you’re never sure which way it will ramp the next time you use it. Being that the ramp is slow, it takes a moment to determine if the ramping is going the direction you want.

Fourth, it’s OVERLY floody. Some may like this, but comparing it to lights with less than half its power (like the Olight S1 Mini), it uses up all its extra lumens and larger battery capacity to get the same intensity. Unless your peripheral vision is astoundingly good, you’ll wish some of that flood was more focused.

Ordered nw one. Just saw this thread. Thanks. Can you reverse the clip for use on cap?

Yes. Ti3 comes with reversible clip

This is the same UI as the TH20. It took me way too long to figure that out and it is indeed frustrating. What I am most embarrassed by was how long it took me to realize that you just needed to release and re-hold to change direction of the ramp. Now that I have that figured out, and given the fact that it has memory as well as direct access to high and moonlight, it is a very useable UI for me. It isn’t that bad to fiddle with the ramp to get the level I want and then it will hold that level in memory. Usually if I want a different level I will frequently want max output for a short time or I will want moonlight. Both direct. No problem.

Thanks.

Ordered CW before NW got here while I can. Have an unrelated question. Haven’t been paying as much attention to this forum in the last year as I should have. Using my lights plenty just haven’t been keeping up. Question is is there anything new I need to know about. Know about LEP technology.

This is untested yet besides the low resistor was tested. Guessing from what I have seen from other drivers with this 3 parallel different value resistor stack
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The Low resistor measures 200 ohms, a higher value will make a lower low. I tried 470 ohms and thats to high a value with a shaved 3500k LH351D 90cri.
I have several different values of resistors on order to try to find my perfect low. I prefer a firefly low, just enough to see in pitch black darkness without tripping on stuff.
I took pics this time when I modded one of these Ti3’s to a cree XPG3 in photo red 645nm. XPGDPR-L1-0000-00F01
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NW factory Ti3 on the left, shaved LH351D 3500k 90cri on the right. White balance set at 5000k.
The factory NW Ti3 has noticeable green around the cornea in person that doesn’t show so much in the pic.
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White balance set to 4500k.
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Ti3 with XPG3 in photo red 645nm.
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My pic doesn’t look anything like it does in person. The hotspot is a deep red fading into the spill which is less intense. The beam pattern looks just like original but the color is a deep red with a very intense deep red hotspot. My lumen tube reported 30 lumens using a eneloop pro but it looks way brighter than that. I was surpprised at just how bright it is using a 1.5v battery, maybe it has something to with the color and my eyes. I dont think anyone has tested a XPG3 photo red yet to know what its capable of. I purchased 3 red leds to try LH351H, XP-E2, and XP-G3. The XP-G3 has a larger die than the other two with a higher max current of 1.5 amps, so thats the one I decided to go with. Using a Li-ion in this light should be interesting with the right setup.
All the pics above where taken in low mode with the factory 200 ohm resistor.
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Top: shaved LH351D 3500k 90cri
Bottom: XP-G3 photo red.
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These pics are just a reference, for one I’m no photographer, for two what you actually see in person can vary alot from a phone pic.

Outstanding work and info shared
really like the comparison photos

and appreciate the Red LED info too

using red light is for fully dark situations… I dont think it needs to be very bright to see at close range

great idea to use Ti3 hosts for red LED experiments…

here is another inexpesive 3 mode twisty
looks like it was made by the same factory that produces the Ti3

Got one of each today. Liked NW more so ordered another.