【convoy】H4 and B35AM options are updated

I’m not only one that think 20 is ok. It’s a safe solution, and entering the settings, even for someone unfamiliar with flashlights, takes 3 seconds, maybe less.

There are 8 modes in the first group. It is enough to do two cycles to enter the settings. For example, when you start from the first mode and want to check the battery level and accidentally jump back to the first mode because you did it too quickly. And again you make 7 clicks, but then instead of checking the battery status you enter the settings.

This is an extreme example, but it shows what’s going on.

And as I mentioned before. In normal use, you don’t change the group every hour to make it annoying.

It’s not.

Change mode groups is not something one does daily.

Acessing the programing mode while being used by a person who doesn’t know there is such a thing can be dangerous.

And this is why I like drivers that have hardware so you can edit firmware. On the attiny13 drivers I could rewrite my own firmware to change that….

I do like constant current and far less heat, though.

Here is the problem: the response time or click/tap delay time for config mode is too long. This is obvious. I can tap a flashlight button 4 times per second without difficulty, and I am pretty sure any minimally trained or blessed human being can do it a minimum of 3 times per second.

As a first solution, click/tap delay time for config mode should not be set any slower than for any other click/tap sequence. This alone can be enough to fix the whole problem. However, if an increase in the lenght of the sequence of clicks/taps is considered, why does the number of clicks or taps needs to be a rounded figure or sort of? It doesn't needs to. Just increase it slightly. Set it at 12, 13, 16, whatever! This is no ramdom stuff! All is precisely pre-defined and once the user knows how to and is dexterous carrying out a procedure, he will just do it.

Do you know about when LH351D 4000K will be available?

I agree, I feel like the config mode should be simple enough for anyone to use. Whether they have fast fingers of a piano player or their fingers are slow and half frozen. Not everyone can click with a rythm and timing.

Is the config menu absolutely necessary?

Maybe we could make a lot of people happy with a simple step ramping or smooth ramping.

1 Click to Turn flashlight off, Click to turn on
2 To turn ‘memory on’ , just simple full click+hold. Ramp up and down to a level you want.Then let go to memorize the level.

3 To turn memory off using tailcap just Click and Hold +Unscrew and screw back tail cap while holding the switch.

Would this solve any issues people accidentally getting into config ?

It’s a mechanical switch, a UI like that is not possible. Any “hold” action will turn the light off during it’s duration.

@Chatika vas Paus

@Ryzbor

@Barkuti

@sochi111

Thank you for your suggestions, I will ask the driver manufacturer to increase the number to 20.

I’m not sure yet, I will check the date later.

@Tartarus

LH351D 4000K will be available in this month

got some osram red LED and PM1

Ooooh! Osram red, WF2, sbt90.2!

Convoy is getting on top of the game

Awesome!

The CSLNM1.TG is rated for max 3000mA and djozz found that 6000mA is actually in the decreasing region, unlike the CSLPM1.TG, so I think the S21A with KW CSLNM1.TG and 6000mA max current doesn’t make too much sense unless there is a typo (maybe with 5000mA it would be ok).

I run an nm1 in a C8 with the 5A driver, and it’s good. (Although I think I only get ~4.5 at tailcap…)

I don’t think I’d take it past 5, myself.

It seems the Other Payment Methods option has been removed from the mobile app. I have no idea how to place an order without paying to ask for the BLF discount or shipping fee grouping.

The CSLPM1.TG is a good choice for builds using the ∅20/∅22mm SST40 6A rated linear drivers. These deliver close to 6A, which is a good level of overdrive for a CSLPM1.TG without being overdone.

I made a couple builds with CSLNM1.TGs, overdriven near 5A (≈4.7) both. I am now to do a CSLPM1.TG one, and something's telling me what's the point. I am thinking in setting the driver at 7.2A theoretical, which would be ≈6.75A effective, but still… what's the point if the actual output difference is so small (in my case I have to anyway, it is one of these).

I think it’s worth doing. With your proposed currents, according to djozz measurements you’ll get ~56% more output with the PM1 and get 78% of the luminance of the NM1. It’s always a compromise between output and throw when you change emitter size, but IMO the PM1 is a good compromise.

I’m seriously impressed that Convoy is planning to try the SBT90.2. It’s a VERY EXPENSIVE emitter and Convoy lights are known to be real budget lights.

Simon, if you are planning to explore high end emitters, I recommend the Oslon CULNM1.TG Boost HL, which is the higher power version of the CSLNM1.TG or the CULPM1.TG Boost HX, which is the higher power version of the CSLPM1.TG.

Right now only Manker is using the CULNM1.TG because they were nearly unobtainable previously. Skylumen also mods lights using the CULPM1.TG. Would be sweet if Convoy can source these rare emitters.

4X18A + SBT90.2… Please.

I’d like to know the price.