Today I modded my original Convoy S2+ Desert Tan with a LD-x4 7A-9A driver and a Luxeon MZ 5700K 90CRI, both from led4power!
I kept the original pill with the Biscotti driver and XPL-HI led, and use another pill with a kiriba-ru custom retaining ring. The gasket is typical 3535 gasket filed to accomodate a 4040 led, like the Luxeon MZ
I like the tint, that is on the âborderâ of NW to CW, and specially itâs colour rendering! I would say it looks like a Nichia 5700K 90 CRI (although I donât have mine installed to compare).
As seen in other experiences, this led creates a slight âdonut holeâ, even with OP reflector. However, that is more noticeable in close range. At distance (+5m), no problems!
Ugh now I ordered a few more just cause I know you are tinkering with the driver. Hope you ordered some extra resistors so I can ride your coat tails, lol.
YLP X1 xp-g2 > 219b 4500k
My first keychain that have an integrated pill. The bezel is glued, but can be unscrewed without the use of heavy equipment.
Mcpcb is aluminum and glued, but something very weak. Easy to clean. The driver does not need to be removed to replace the led.
Yes, this is the driver that was in this flashlight by default. That surprised me a bit too.
Iâve been thinking about something like this, but I donât know how to sand a shelf that is âhiddenâ.
Besides, I prefer to power small lights with aaa, because I usually carry these with my keys and I do not have to remember to charge the battery.
I think I got you covered. :+1:
I ordered 20 of each value I picked. At digikey 10 was .15 cents so I just ordered 20 of each value. I could probably save some money buying one of those 172 value assorted resistor books from Ali.
You will like the ease of modding the Ti3 if your going to use the original mcpcb, if you go copper mcpcb then it will take a little more effort.
Went to just throw the stock emitter in my modded D10 for now. Screwed on the tailcap and⌠instant 100%. Whoops.
Started troubleshooting and found that LED- was shorting to ground. Driver being bypassed completely. Eventually found the culprit was sloppy soldering at the LED- contact on the driver. Re-did the LED- and LED+ at the driver. Next issue was the light was just completely dead. I wasnât getting ground contact from driver/charger board to the body tube. Threw some solder blobs on the ground ring in a strategic spot and did another test-reassemble. All good now! The use of 22 gauge wire throughout, a probably crap-bin XM-L2, and rather long LED leads mean turbo isnât anything special on this - but thatâs not what this lightâs about.
I love having on-board charging for an Anduril light thatâs also a nice compact headlamp. Iâm tempted to, at some point, order a D25S and another of these driversâŚ
Edit: forgot to add, it has a nice sub-lumen minimum output. Must be the 1x7135 channel.
Second edit: went to turn in for the night and the red switch LEDs were bright. I decided to find out if they were proper Anduril-controlled aux LEDs. Googled up the user manual. Put the light into lockout and suddenly the LEDs are blinking (off, low, off, low, high, repeat). Awesome!
Good stuff Scallywag, glad you breathed new life into the Olight! That was one of the first lights I tried to mod, with my very limited knowledge at the time, and really could have chosen a better light to start with
Thanks for the tip NeutralFan. I actually wanted to keep the hotpost and a âfrostedâ lens will probably erase it.
I tried it below a pebbled TIR, but it loosed a lot in distance range. I would need a shorter reflector, eventually, to avoid the âholeâ, but I donât have any around that I can try. Next weekend I will try it outdoor and see how it looks. In case that artifact bothers me, I will probably follow you suggestion or add some DC-Fix!
Again, thank you :+1:
It couldâve been worse - you couldâve tried to start with a Zebralight!
Itâs a great light. I prefer Olightâs modern UI (or, idk, maybe it has changed - I like the UI on my S1), but only for minor quibbles - itâs not like this one has H-M-L mode order or something. They could have, like the Thrunite, offered a higher output on 14500, but I donât find that super appropriate for a fully titanium host (and it will likely carry Eneloops anyway). Rather, I like that, as with my DQG Slim AA, the 14500 low modes are the same as the AA/NiMh. That ruined the Thrunite on 14500 entirely for me when I lost sub-lumen moonlight. And the emitter choice - but then, thatâs Olight anyway.
The only really rough bit for me was getting the driver out of the pill. I even contacted Olight to see if they had replacement parts available (no - although they were trying to get me to send it in for paid repair, which I did not want) so I knew if I mucked that up it was game over. There was a tiny bit of epoxy on about a third of the bottom edge of the driver, but it didnât offer much resistance once I found a good way to pry the driver out - again, it was not much epoxy at all, and it probably didnât stick very well to the aluminum pill.
As for the D10, some updates. With the stock XM-L2 and running in turbo for a minute here and there, the body wasnât getting warm. It was also running with a 3500mAh protected cell (not sure on the exact cell, but probably LG MJ1), so itâs pulling less than 8A that the protection circuit is rated for. Iâm going to stick with lower-drain 3500mAh cells and not put something silly like Luxon V or SST40 in there, since thereâs no temp sensor near the LED.
.
I did not know how well the lead free reflow solder and lead reflow solder mix. I just burned up a XHP70.2 and that may have caused it.
Is there a way to tell the difference ?
.