It could’ve been worse - you could’ve tried to start with a Zebralight!
It’s a great light. I prefer Olight’s modern UI (or, idk, maybe it has changed - I like the UI on my S1), but only for minor quibbles - it’s not like this one has H-M-L mode order or something. They could have, like the Thrunite, offered a higher output on 14500, but I don’t find that super appropriate for a fully titanium host (and it will likely carry Eneloops anyway). Rather, I like that, as with my DQG Slim AA, the 14500 low modes are the same as the AA/NiMh. That ruined the Thrunite on 14500 entirely for me when I lost sub-lumen moonlight. And the emitter choice - but then, that’s Olight anyway.
The only really rough bit for me was getting the driver out of the pill. I even contacted Olight to see if they had replacement parts available (no - although they were trying to get me to send it in for paid repair, which I did not want) so I knew if I mucked that up it was game over. There was a tiny bit of epoxy on about a third of the bottom edge of the driver, but it didn’t offer much resistance once I found a good way to pry the driver out - again, it was not much epoxy at all, and it probably didn’t stick very well to the aluminum pill.
As for the D10, some updates. With the stock XM-L2 and running in turbo for a minute here and there, the body wasn’t getting warm. It was also running with a 3500mAh protected cell (not sure on the exact cell, but probably LG MJ1), so it’s pulling less than 8A that the protection circuit is rated for. I’m going to stick with lower-drain 3500mAh cells and not put something silly like Luxon V or SST40 in there, since there’s no temp sensor near the LED.