Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril1/2 + RGB Aux

So exciting! These are def worth paying for an international DHL courier in my books :wink:
Can’t wait. Thanks for all your amazing work Lume1, i hope you get your hands on some soon enough!

Yes they will be posted to my github page. You can also buy one to support Neal!

This driver was specifically laid out for the FW3x flashlight and has components specifically chosen to fit the very low z-height. Designing one for other flashlights would allow for larger components at a different price point. Enjoy! :)

:+1: You are the best!

Perfect!

Thx

Ordered 3 of the Lume1’s…. this NovaTac 120 has been waiting a loooong time… :wink:

[quote=KawiBoy1428] Ordered 3 of the Lume1's.... this NovaTac 120 has been waiting a loooong time.. ;) !{width:80%}https://i.postimg.cc/C1qX5jx8/IMG-1622.jpg! [/quote]

That’s what i did too LOL

Excellent! Ordered three. Thanks so much for all the work you put in on this!

is 28 AWG silicone wire small enough for RGB board? Looks like we may have to go smaller or open up hole on already small shelf. I guess I should learn to read. First post suggests 30AWG or teflon so the answer would be a no to that :slight_smile:

Can these new boards (or the the old boards) be retrofit for other traditional e-switch lights if the diameter is similar? Could it be flashed with a mechanical clicky firmware if such a thing was made?

Just trying to figure out how many I should buy.

Ordered! Thanks for all the folks that put this together and saw it through getting it made!

In one of the prototype drivers I received early on, I believe they used AWG28 silicone wire for the RGB board. The wire diameter is fine, but typically silicone wire insulation is fairly thick. This made for a very tight fit. As a result, I recommend using as thin a wire as you can manage, and teflon coated is good since the insulation is thin (though it's hard to strip the wires if your wire stripper is not sharp). Soldering to the RGB board shouldn't be too difficult, just need a pair of tweezers ideally and make sure the wire ends are not frayed (or use solid core).

This driver was specifically designed for FW3x.. I guess it could fit other flashlights but it wasn't designed to do so, hence you'll probably need some modifications. The driver was also designed for e-Switch flashlights, so it will not work with mechanical clicky flashlights, and probably there won't be any firmware written to support it. Likely a different design using a clicky-specific firmware would be more appropriate. Hope that helps!

I remember another user recommending 30 AWG kynar insulated, solid wire for applications like aux LED’s. 30 AWG is thin enough that even solid wire is fairly flexible, but it tends to stay in the position you bend it to instead of the insulation wanting to pull it back straight, and it can be a little easier to strip. I think Kynar was recommended simply for better cost and availability than teflon, and thinner than silicone.

The other recommendation was to just buy white wire and mark your wires with colored sharpies (or number them with stripes if you don’t have colored sharpies). Most of us don’t need multiple rolls of fine wire in all the different colors like to color code aux boards.

This should work fine in an FW1A right?

And how hard would it be to “swap the MISO and MOSI lines” on my Emisar programmer? I don’t see anything that looks readily swappable, and I don’t know what I’m doing :).

It should work for FW1A, yes.

You could probably unplug one side of the adapter and use something like male to female jumper wires in whatever order you need. You could probably unplug both sides and use female to female jumper cables too but I dont have an Emisar one to verify.

For the soldering advice: Tin your leads (solves the fraying issue) and flux it up. For something that small you shouldn't need much more than a tap. Be sure to clean any flux residue afterwards.

I'm planning on 30AWG silicone. Floppy wet spaghetti-noodle wire.

Also: The driver should fit FW1A light just fine ;)

Ordered a Lume1 today. Plan is to put this in my brushed titanium LM10.

@asdqqq
If this is the programmer your talking about. Emisar D4V2 Flash Kit Instructions (Official How To)
Then contactcr’s solution should work great. You might could cut MISO and MOSI leads coming from the pogo pcb to the cable and wire them around the opposite way.

Just bought three. Thanks loneoceans for all that work and now just waiting for delivery from Neal.

Its a pity about the flashing pins. I might have to buy another one from Hank and swap the pins around permanently. Theres no easy & safe solution I can think of.
I bought 5 of the first batch so i will no doubt use them.

That’s the programmer I’m taking about. So would these work? https://www.amazon.com/IZOKEE-Solderless-Breadboard-Arduino-Project/dp/B08151TQHG

And then basically make a new ribbon cable out of them to patch in? How do I know which are the 2 that need to be switched?

Thanks

Is it confirmed that they will be doing another batch with this fixed? If so, I might just hold off until then for the convenience of having matching pads, even if it might mean missing out on the discount.