New Olight i1R 2 EOS

Thanks to reddit user Masterironchef for the brute tip. Remove front half, bang from top. I used this hex key + a bit of mouse pad and banged on it a few times and all the bits dropped to the bottom.

The stock LED is approx 1.75mm x 1.75mm

The LED pads look a bit undersized with maybe a total width of ~1.4mm or something but that is less important than the gap which is too small for me to measure accurately.

I guess this puts us in E21A range sizing up a bit or XD16/E17A sizing down a bit. The optic opening is large at ~4mm.

I have an amber XQ-E I could probably put on there but it would be hideous i’m sure.

Thanks for sharing. How did you desolder the LED?

Preheater on bottom, hot air on top.

The saga continues…

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E21A fits! but it’s impossibly hard to center!!

If I recall the + side is the side with the tiny resistor and - is the open side. It’s a little crooked but it’s almost centered and it does work (used multi-meter on driver to test), phew.

Trying to “press fit” everything back together proved to be a challenge. I think I warped my original AL ground ring thing and I could never get it to sit flush enough to reliably go into “high” mode.

Had to fashion new ghetto ground ring out of a sealing washer and part of a spring. I left the bent ring that touches the ground on the driver loose under the washer. Now the entire light is like double the weight :person_facepalming:

Ok whatever, it works. Now for the pièce de résistance! Doh there’s a ugly ring around the outermost spill (was that there before, I think so?) - we can overlook that, I have a big shot E21A that i’m gonna be bragging about on BLF and it’s really bright to boot!

but something else isn’t right and I cant put my finger on it :question:

::Take spectral reading of mystery E21A acquired from friend:: 5400K and 75 CRI, DOH!
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To be continued….

> I have an amber XQ-E I could probably put on there but it would be hideous i’m sure.

agree

,

> Take spectral reading of mystery E21A acquired from friend:: 5400K and 75 CRI, DOH!

trashed!
:confounded:

no wonder they looked so pale
a white elephant gift, so to speak

It has reached its final form…

Different 3500K E21A, took 2 tries to center. I guess I shorted it the first time but the final result was probably more centered than any of my previous attempts so that’s good. I also soldered that final loose ring that contacts the driver ground to the copper washer on just one side so it’s still raised up a little.

Beam is even better than the other E21A, no more off colored outer ring. Left is Sofirn C01S SST-20 4000K - Right is Olight I1R II E21A 3500K

low (4-5lm) / high (75lm+)

:heart_eyes:
beautiful work

Hi all,

I've got mine free when ordering an M2R on the French Olightstore. I was unlucky at the color lottery, since I received a dark grey one whereas I would have preferred a green or red one.

Thanks moderator007 and phouton for the explanation on how to remove the head. Can it be put back easily and without any damage?

As far as I understand this is the only way to measure the battery voltage, correct? I tried to mesure it on the four contacts of an USB charge cable, but got zero V in all contact pairs.

I like to monitor the charge status of my Li-ion lights: charge them around 90% SoC (4.1V) : better for the battery long term life than charging it frequently to 100%, and still a good runtime available. And recharge when they're down to 40 % i.e. 3.8V.

But I can't imagine removing the head too often to do so.

Repeatedly opening the head that way will eventually break the top O ring (in my case after only a few times). I cant imagine this light is worth going through the trouble. Depending on how smart the charger is maybe you could hook it to something to measure the draw from the USB and guess? Have you measured if it even gets to 4.2V to begin with?

Yeah, it’s a free light. I wouldn’t go through too much trouble just to make the battery live a little bit longer.

Want.

Where to get this LED? Clemence still can’t offer economy shipping to my country :weary: .

I'd like to, but how to measure this without accessing the battery poles?

The threads (-) and the brass pillar (+), i’m charging mine fully now I will let you know where it ends up

Which can only be accessed by removing the head, correct?

I can manage the head to go very slightly sideways, but it doesn't come off and I dont dare pulling too hard.

I wouldn’t do this mod again personally. Press fit Olights deserve their cool white fate. I did it more as a challenge with zero concern if I ruin the light and lets be honest I did ruin it but managed to fix it enough to work again. It is cool to see that this optic will more or less focus a CSP type small led though, maybe there is hope for other lights.

Right, if you aren’t willing to yank it apart while it’s slightly sideways and risk ruining the O ring and having the spring fly out then I think you should just be content with not caring about the battery charge state.

You mean like monitoring the current being supplied to the light and stop charging as soon as that current starts dropping since that’s when it goes into CV phase?

Yes, assuming it works like that

Sure, it’s low CRI cold white. If have not a single “friend” I’d give it to. But it’s nice to look at. It’s mint. And it’s small, so it uses only little space.

Nah, it’s ok. I’m grateful for Olights gifts :+1:

It does. It normally pulls about 0.076A, and then starts dropping towards the end of charging cycle.