Different 3500K E21A, took 2 tries to center. I guess I shorted it the first time but the final result was probably more centered than any of my previous attempts so that’s good. I also soldered that final loose ring that contacts the driver ground to the copper washer on just one side so it’s still raised up a little.
Beam is even better than the other E21A, no more off colored outer ring. Left is Sofirn C01S SST-20 4000K - Right is Olight I1R II E21A 3500K
I've got mine free when ordering an M2R on the French Olightstore. I was unlucky at the color lottery, since I received a dark grey one whereas I would have preferred a green or red one.
Thanks moderator007 and phouton for the explanation on how to remove the head. Can it be put back easily and without any damage?
As far as I understand this is the only way to measure the battery voltage, correct? I tried to mesure it on the four contacts of an USB charge cable, but got zero V in all contact pairs.
I like to monitor the charge status of my Li-ion lights: charge them around 90% SoC (4.1V) : better for the battery long term life than charging it frequently to 100%, and still a good runtime available. And recharge when they're down to 40 % i.e. 3.8V.
But I can't imagine removing the head too often to do so.
Repeatedly opening the head that way will eventually break the top O ring (in my case after only a few times). I cant imagine this light is worth going through the trouble. Depending on how smart the charger is maybe you could hook it to something to measure the draw from the USB and guess? Have you measured if it even gets to 4.2V to begin with?
I wouldn’t do this mod again personally. Press fit Olights deserve their cool white fate. I did it more as a challenge with zero concern if I ruin the light and lets be honest I did ruin it but managed to fix it enough to work again. It is cool to see that this optic will more or less focus a CSP type small led though, maybe there is hope for other lights.
Right, if you aren’t willing to yank it apart while it’s slightly sideways and risk ruining the O ring and having the spring fly out then I think you should just be content with not caring about the battery charge state.
You mean like monitoring the current being supplied to the light and stop charging as soon as that current starts dropping since that’s when it goes into CV phase?
Sure, it’s low CRI cold white. If have not a single “friend” I’d give it to. But it’s nice to look at. It’s mint. And it’s small, so it uses only little space.
That would likely be a decent way to at least guess the top end voltage. For the bottom, a lux meter? Lol.
FYI, fresh off the charger it measures 4.16-4.17
I will be sending my friend Unheard a Christmas card this year so I can get the gifts of high cri neutral white lights and those artisan German forceps.
I was charging mine but fell asleep, when I got up the indicator light was still red 7 hours later or more, it seems to have charged though, anyone have this issue?
Yes. I had a 3 hour charging session where the light remained red. It seemed charged. The next time I charged it after a little use, the light turned green after about an hour. Unsettling.
I just received mine as the free gift. Charged it right away and after 10min the red light was off. No green light at all, but it seemed charged. Then I turned on HIGH for about 10min and then charged again, red light was off about 30-40min later and still no green light at all. But it seems all good. Weird.
