Thank you.
I trimmed the cap piece and bored thru with the 20mm bit.
To keep the wood head length about what it is I decided I needed to space the mcpcb farther forward in the 20mm borehole. So I needed a spacer, somewhat like we use a spacer when installing a triple with optic in a Convoy S2. I had some XHP50 mcpcb’s I had got somewhere several years ago and only used one. There are solid copper so I decided to use three of them, sanded smooth and soldered together. I applied solder paste to the interfaces and used steel screws to keep the spacers aligned after I drilled holes that match the 2-56 mcpcb to copper disc holes previously drilled.
After soldering and cooling they were cleaned up and then I filed the perimeter where needed to make the diamter match that of the mcpcb and be able to be inserted into the 20mm borehole. The three punched dimples are to remind me how to position these when being assembled with the mcpcb and the copper disc.
Here’s a trial fit of all the head parts, so far made.
…and here without the wood parts…
…bolted together… (I neglected photos as I sanded the sides of the octagon smooth. I used the same technique as back in post #23, using the bench sanding disc and the miter gauge.
What now? I have wrapped a litte tape around the end of a 3/4” OD dowel and loosely wrapped some tape to avoid marring the dowel shaft, just in case I want to use it for something in the future. Just enough tape was wrapped at the end to make the wood head a fairly tight fit on the dowel end.
Yes, I am cutting the head. After each few strokes I rotate the wood head 30 degrees or so and take a few more strokes with the saw.
… alomost cut thru…
There! Cut in approximate 1/3 - 2/3 pieces…
The thicker portion fits over the mcpcb and optic. Note that the optic is slightly recessed… or the wood piece a little too long.
I want the surface of the wood and the optic to be at pretty much the same height. The optic can be very slightly above the wood height… Sort of like this…
I used the bench belt sander to sand down the wood pieces as needed…
I sawed off a couple of the 4-40 screws to make studs to faciltate fitting the parts easier.
Here’s why I sliced the head into two parts. That is 0.030” thick lexan. It will be the optic retainer.
Next I’ll trim the lexan and sand it flush to the head side surfaces. I know there may be some light loss of lumens through the lexan, but I’ll trade that for the practicality of it retaining the optic.