Knife makers and knife users got away with slipjoint knives for hundreds of years, they are simple and functional, I never got any problem with one either and so do most SAK users.
AmaZing! Great job, this inspires me to keep learning. I want to convert my GT Mini to red or green, been trying to forgive that out.
Did my first two mods ever this week- dedomed my yootoo sd3 sst40 and my ft03 xhp50.2. Both turned out awesome- picked up definitive throw on both, but especially the color / temp transformation on the xhp, I personally love the new lower (maybe 4500k). Want to dedome my fw21 pro next !
And fixed blades have been around since the beginning of time. Hard use hundreds of years ago would have gone to that I suspect. If you have never had a non locking knife try and close on you while using it then consider yourself lucky.
(sorry for off-topic) I own folding knives that lock, and of them I like backlocks better than liner- or axis-locks because the construction is simple and very sturdy. Because I like simplicity I like slipjoints too, and I have not one close on me yet because I understand to use them for cutting and slicing and not for poking/stabbing stuff. Hopefully it stays that way :person_facepalming:
I didn’t like how low moon was on my s2+ triple with homemade AK-47A to fet+1 driver,barelly visible.
replaced the 7135 350ma with a 380ma and turned out just as I wanted.
dedomed the xpl hd v6 in the process also,didnt like how domes were being squashed by opticcs.
actually looks worse at that angle than it is.
waiting on a Copper spacer from kiriba-ru and at the moment has an extra o-ring under lens for the slack.
after de-dome a gap was created as pill is all the way up to top inner thread.
mcpcb is seated on top with thermal paste on a 20c euro coin sanded down to fit top of pill.
I removed the anodization on my orange Convoy S2+. I kinda like it, almost like the flat white finish, but unfortunately not very even. I’m likely going to buff it out. Yes, I could have purchased a clear anodized host, but this one was a free gift from the last BG sale and it was already on hand and I was bored.
Installed a Red 730nm in a copper aaa Maratac
The XP-E2 came from Kaidomain on a 10mm mcpcb
the 730nm output on my meter is 0.6 lumens, on all 3 modes
compare to a 660nm in a Maratac
outputs are 5, 10, 12 lumens
shown here are the lowest modes on both lights
these Maratacs with a 219b have modes of about 3, 20, 80 lumens
I have no idea why the mode spacing is totally lost with the red LEDs
I use these lights for red light therapy to reduce pain of arthritis in my hands. They both work. The 730nm produces a slightly more noticeable “tingle” when holding it on my hand, than the 660nm…
the 730 is essentially worthless for illumination, while the 660nm is quite bright.
update
I put 730nm in a T10T
pic is a link to the mod thread
Good amount of thermal paste but the slight burr from stamping these PCB’s out needed a little sanding on the bottom. Driver was glued but the glue is very weak. I took tweezers and put them on the flats of the driver and pressed sideways/up a little on each one to break up the glue and it came right out.
Wanted to switch it up a little from my D4 so I went with 2x 3500K (DigiKey) and 2x 5700K (Convoy) and sliced one of each. Too bad they didn’t copy the Noctigon rotated LED pads to clean up the edges of the beam. Went ahead and bypassed the driver spring since I had it out and plan to use unprotected/shorter batteries.
Glamour shots.
Bonus yellow-green tritium installed so I will never forget the original beam.
Spectral measurements on high/turbo with stock lens.
Yes sir. I don’t like the idea of minus green filters. With a better lens it would be exactly on and below BBL after mod. It’s a neat light but not sure it will replace a modded D4 or FW3A, we’ll see though.
It could have been lower with 2700K instead of 3500K at the cost of overall lower CCT also. I wanted to see how the mixing and beam would do with domed and sliced together.
It has a slightly more intense center that fades into a more typical floody TIR beam. The more intense center is very subtle and doesn’t create any rings or noticeable defined throw. More like a floody beam with bias towards the middle I guess?