The problem with the aux board fitment on the Ti (and probably stainless) models is that the double thickness PCB is not quite centered. I guess it was cut wrong or something. You can kind of see it just by looking at the optic. The edge of the optic shows more on one side than the other.
Outside the light the aux board fits on the LEDs flush but hangs over one one side. This is why it’s such a PITA to get it seated IN the light.
code version: ~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/lume1 : revision 492
my options:
#define DEFAULT_THERM_CEIL 50
#define USE_SOFT_FACTORY_RESET
Soft reset… good
Voltage check… good
Temp regulation… good
Ramping… good
Steps… good
Aux… good
Lockout… good
Momentary… good
Manual/Auto Memory… good
Strobes… good
LVP… not tested
Muggle… not tested
One thing that works different from my other Anduril lights is: Turbo > Stepdown > double click takes me to last memorized and not back into turbo
Not sure if bug or by choice.
Also, are my fuses wrong? Datasheet shows another value for High :question:
First attempt failed at the initial step. Couldn’t get the wires to desolder from the mcpcb. So could I potentially solve this with a better soldering iron (all I had laying around was an attachment for a little propane torch), or do I need to unscrew the mcpcb so it’s detached from the shelf?
It’s not screwed on. Take tweezers and stick in one of the optic holes to break suction from paste and sit the mcpcb on the screw to prevent it from sitting flush.
Put fresh solder on your iron clean it off and you can even put a bit more fresh solder to help it desolder right before.
You should feel good about this step or else you will have more trouble resoldering them.
For anyone planning to do a little more DIY work, having the right tools will absolutely make your life significantly easier and I highly recommend picking up a decent soldering iron.
Personally I use a Radio-frequency Metcal MX-500 - these are usually extremely expensive but I managed to purchase a 'damaged' one for ridiculously cheap on eBay and repaired it, and the performance is unbeatable - for anyone who hasn't used a RF iron, once you try it you can't go back!
Learning how to use the tips and how to set the temperature is also important. This guide is very detailed: https://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/type.html
I use equivalent tips for my Metcal. For SMD soldering, I use a JBC precision rework station but you don't need this unless you're soldering QFNs or smaller.
Finally, flux is very useful, likewise with the correct solder width. I recommend a 0.2 to 0.3mm diameter solder for the really fine work (this is very important). For regular solder, 0.5-0.8mm works well. For flux, #186 or #951 Kester pens are my most used.
I do so miss the JBC station I used when I did micro-soldering professionally. Out of my price range, though… An ERSA i-CON Pico might eventually be on the table though.
I can definitely recommend the i-CON Pico and Nano. We have a Nano at work and it is amazing. Pico is basically the same thing but with no ESD protection.
Not doing anything wrong. The voltage mode is there twice, to make it easier to select. When there was just one, people found the timing difficult… so a second one was added to give the user a wider time window.
That means the battery is full, or close to full.
Thanks! I think you are the first to try it.
About the fuses, I vaguely recall that some avrdude versions report swapped values for two fuses… so it might just be that. Not sure.
About double-click going to mem after turbo has stepped down, that sounds strange. If you have the ceiling set to 149/150, and the current brightness is below that, double-click should go back up to turbo. If it’s not doing that, something doesn’t sound right. Could it be that the ceiling is set to a lower level?
The main areas of risk in this version are the voltage and temperature measurement, and thermal regulation. If those are working though, it’s probably safe to merge into a bigger branch for more people to use.
Convoy S21A or B, M21A, B…
That would be great.^^^
Those are not e-switch though so a bunch of functionality would be gone and new firmware needed.
I think these, in order of highest preference, are all good choices:
If I understand correctly, that was the goal. Lume-style driver for non-e-switch lights running non-e-switch firmware.
In that case just standard sizes 17,20,22 (with as much edge clearance as possible for retaining rings). Most mechanical ones don’t have very specialized layout like FW lights.
If loneoceans can put an e switch solder pad the on driver it could be used for both clicky and e switch lights.
Would you happen to have Anduril functioning on an 841? This would allow him to adapt his GXB172 clicky firmware existing for the 841instead of starting over.
I started adding 841 support at one point, but there was no hardware for it, so I had nothing to test on and no concrete target to add support for. So it never got finished.
Hello all,
ToyKeeper is right! The Lume1 hardware can be applied to other flashlights as well, though it's not possible to adapt a Clicky-type flashlight (i.e. the switch cuts off power completely) to work with an e-Switch firmware like Anduril. What I was saying is that there are no hardware nor software limitations that would prevent the Lume1 design to be adapted to clicky-type flashlights as well. Personally I do like the classic Convoy S2 but I haven't really had time to adapt the Lume1 to that driver just yet.
For the GXB-series, I'd recommend that project only for people who know what they are getting themselves into and have a fair bit of experience with hardware work, since those are very high power drivers are generally impractical to use in real life, and will not achieve the designed performance without proper care in construction, component selection, etc. It's a much more involved overall system than the lume1-series. For those drivers, the reason why I chose the 841 was due to it's tiny size (it comes in 3x3mm package, which the others like 1634 do not), but other than that there's no reason why another MCU wouldn't work. A good candidate will be the 1-series in the near future :).
I am hoping to expand the driver to more flashlight but due to the slightly more complicated nature of the switching drivers, I'd like to focus on one project at a time to make sure it's robust and reliable. Hope that makes sense!
I respectfully disagree about your GXB driver being impractical, its a masterpiece. It’s a shame more people aren’t using it.
I use one three times a week for mountain biking driving an xhp70.2 with a 21700 battery. Its super efficient and with the C8 size host runtime on turbo is pretty good and lights up a very large area. My rides are about 100 minutes long using a modified level two (three is too bright) and the charger never reads below 85% battery capacity.
It can be tricky to build if your soldering skills aren’t great and the parts are expensive compared to most drivers around here, but its the only driver that gets that much power and efficiency out of a 17mm pcb. There aren’t many people able to do this and even fewer that would share it for free. Thank you for making it available to us.
+1
Its a beast of a driver for its 17mm size.
Thanks again for sharing with the community Loneoceans. :+1:
Thanks WTF and Moderator007 for the kind words. I'll definitely look into revisiting those drivers in the future but likely not in the near time-frame since I have many things on my plate. I'll also be testing out Anduril2 (thanks TK!) for the driver and making sure all systems are working.
[Update - Anduril2 is working well! Please see first post for details]