The nearer building on the right side is a business-process outsourcing “BPO” (ie. call center that caters to calls from around the world), so it’s basically awake 24 hours… (not seen in the video, upper floors are lighted at night)
I actually wrote some comments in the Youtube description link for each.
Anyway, here are some comments:
Turbo and High mode differ, depending on which beam flashlight (I only had White, Green, Red).
Tailcap current on High ~3.3A ; Turbo ~4.3A (may not be that accurate: I didn’t use full-charged battery, because based on an initial test, the white one turns bluish on Turbo — see below)
FT03-Mini Osram green = the green beam looks quite bright, I would think a wee bit brighter than Osram white when on max.
(also has a noticeable green spill area)
FT03-Mini Osram white = if I use a full charged high-drain battery, then set to Turbo, the beam will turn bluish and actually decrease in brightness (ceiling bounce with lux meter). This means, Turbo is overheating the LED. I need to use a not-high-drain battery, and I didn’t use full charge battery so Turbo will be brighter than High.
[maybe someone can comment if 4.3A is too high tailcap current for the Osram NM1, at least on the FT03-Mini? I have tested a Manker U22 II, with the same Osram NM1 LED, and measured around 5A tailcap current on Max, but the Manker U22 II’s Osram NM1 LED does not turn bluish on Turbo; at least not like the FT03-Mini which obviously became bluish)
FT03-Mini Osram red = I didn’t detect brightness difference visually (or with lux meter) when set to High and Turbo. However, tailcap current does show that Turbo uses a higher current than High, and Turbo will notably get the flashlight a bit hotter. Looks like the ~4.3A vs ~3.3A on Osram Red does not give a noticeable brightness difference? (I didn’t notice it turn “bluish”, unlike on the Osram white.
(Osram red doesn’t seem to have a noticeable “red” spill area, unlike the “green” beam. (visually observing)
Ooops, posted on the other FT03 mini - forgot this one exist for just the NM1's. Got the green on green in today.
Guess totally forgot it's a Astrolux/Mateminco UI with press&hold to turn OFF, no ramping..
I measured 5.2 amps at the tail on a older VapCell VTC5D, but only 4.2 amps on a 35E at 4.06V, so looks like amps will depend on the battery resistance but they probably have some amp limiting built in. The loss of the AUX LED's around the main LED is a big time disappointment. I'm glad a got a mini SST-4 with Anduril and the AUX LED's.
For some reason they put in a bigger spring in the NM1 version. Dunno why - it's squeezing the flat top 18650 pretty good because it's stiff.
Did some measurements of the green NM1 version. On a Samsung 25S at 4.17V, measured 5.4 amps at the tail, calibrated lumens: 840 at start, 798 at 30 secs. Throw taken at 5m: 201 kcd (897 meters).
Throw does a bit better than rated, plus the lumens is higher, as expected for a green. There was a couple fine threads/fibers near the LED - took them out, cleaned up the LED/MCPCB and inside the head area - has some dirt/dust in there. There's a small scratch inside the reflector near the base, but don't think that effects anything.
Overall it's pretty decent - UI works as documented on BG here. There's no mode/level memory, and you can only click output+, can't go down. But still it's got a decent moon, 4 levels, and a slightly brighter turbo.
The driver is different from the SST-40 version - at least the exposed pogo pin pads are aligned differently on the spring side. Haven't taken it apart yet - would want to run Anduril on it eventually.
I agree with the hold for off - wut a PITA. For the green LED version: 5.4 amps on a 25S at 4.17V, and 4.2 amps on a 35E at 4.06V. But the green LED has a higher Vf than the white NM1, so if they used the same driver and circuitry, not good.
I'm running 7.2 amps for a green NM1 in a Noctigon K1 - this is about the peak from djozz's test. For a white NM1, you want to be below 5 amps - The K1 is about 4.8 amps. djozz's test says it all. For the red, I'm not sure, but sounds like turbo is beyond the peak of the curve.
The output curve is real. I ran the green at 7.6 amps and got slightly lower output than at 7.2 amps.
For red, dunno - not sure if anyone published numbers or charts, but probably Hank got it right with the red K1.
Oh, another thing - Hank has the perfect driver in the K1 to handle all these different LED amp requirements because all you have to so is replace a resistor to control amp output, and it regulates very well, uses the 1634 MCU so of course can run Anduril. Find info on the resistor starting at this post in the K1 thread.
Sorry this doesn't help the situation with the FT03 mini. Sounds like they didn't take the color NM1 LED amp requirements into account at all, perhaps.