Nice mod. Did you reflow the LED on the stock mcpcb or find one that fits?
@ ch1ir I only have AA batteries. I do not know if my light would hum with 14500. Which battery type are you getting Hum with?
output differences, pic is a link to an excellent review:
So as not to be without a light during resolution process:
my strategy in response to that offer would be:
1. Buy another light as a separate transaction
2. Once I have a working light in hand, I would return the defective light for refund.
3. Or return both if both hum. I think the hum is unusual, and your next one should be fine. Im an optimist 
.
I used the stock mcpcb
because the LED I installed and the one that comes stock, are both xp style LEDs
this allowed me to use the stock centering ring, which worked perfectly. Centering is perfect and the beam is really really clean in transition from hotspot to spill.
super happy with the quality of the beam using the stock mcpcb
Yes. I have several T10T v2 and all of them emit a high-pitched “hum” when on Low mode (not moonlight). Tested with 14500 and NiMH AA as well. Other modes (ML, M, H) on my units do not have the “hum”.
Nice 
Awesome feedback and thanks for the tips on the disassembly! Just purchased one but not expecting it until early May 
Will be swapping to either a 218B/SST-20/LH351D depending on how I feel at the time. I’ll try the boiling water trick first, that has usually worked very well for me.
I have discovered an unusual bug, I dont know how to solve it yet. But I know how to cause it.
It was seeming like every time I opened one of these lights, something would go wrong. I had one set aside for over a month beause I could not figure out why it stopped working. I bought another one cause I thought the first one had a dead driver. Now the New one acts just like the first one.
bottom line
These two lights only work properly if I do not overtighten the bezel. Unfortunately for my OCD, that means I cant line up the logo on the bezel, with the switch button, even though they came lined up originally.
(unless I can make peace with using loctite to hold the bezel in place after backing off the threads a turn, which will leave a “big” bezel gap… aaargh!)
in any case they are working properly atm, one is 3000k 219b, the other 660nm red. I run them on Eneloop only.
rant:
I dont really like sideswitch lights… given my vision challenges, a tailswich is easier to find. There is a previous model of this light, with tailswitch and a screw on clip, that I prefer… But I suspect it also has PWM on the low mode. This model has a tailmagnet, that I have not yet removed. I consider them a nuisance. I also have not added a battery sleeve yet, to stop it from rattling so easy… oh and, one of them only works if I make sure to get the head a bit extra tight… seems I screwed something up in there too… these guys are some of the worst to work on, of my limited experiece, and also one of the hardest to open, and the bezel has the scratches to prove it… oh well… still fun when they work.
on AA Eneloop
T10T w 660nm red led
0.16, 1.3, 17, 73 lumens
T10T with sw30
0.23, 2.0, 30, 82 lumens
I loved the old style T10. I don’t mind side switches but I definitely prefer tail clickies in lights below a certain size.
Very nice info. I bought a few and all of them have variation. I had one that didn’t want to turn on unless the mid section was screwed on super tight. Guess thrunite had a rough time working with Titanium. I believe someone emailed the owner and they said as soon as stock runs out, not going to make them anymore. One of the best deals for a titanium light. The next one up is double or tripple the price! A must have to add to the collection.
I have one that also only works if I make the head extra snug to the body.
I think the pill supporting the driver needs to be unscrewed a bit so the body tube makes contact more easily with the pill.
I agree they are good looking and bargain priced for a Titanium host
I like the hand feel, high gloss shine, and form factor, not too phat, and not too heavy…
Yah, this there are quite a few issues, but for titanium at this price we all forgive xD. One of them I had to return as the button was super springy and didn’t feel tactile firm. It was a horrible feel and I hope as ours wear down it doesn’t feel like that down the road.
Is it possible to remove the tail of the magnet?
have not tried, but I think it is held by the spring, should be easy to remove if not glued.
however, removing the magnet will let the spring collapse since it is normally supported by the magnet, so if you dont want magnetism, maybe best to kill the magnet but not remove it.
I have not tried, but have heard that people kill magnets with a soldering iron. Be careful, neodymium is toxic and can catch fire., So dont break it into pieces and swallow any, and dont use a flame to heat it.
share what you learn
Nice perseverance.
The glue on the bezel is really nasty stuff. 
thanks, yes, I had a really hard time opening the T10T lights.
today I removed the 660nm and installed a 730nm.
I wanted to see what would happen to the modes…
here are the modes on my meter:
Thrunite T10T w XP-E2 730nm on AA Eneloop
0.04, 0.2, 1, 5 lumens
here is what my meter thinks is 5 lumens on Both 660nm and 730nm. My eyes and camera see the outputs differently than my meter does.
yes
I let the magnet heat up on my hotplate until it reached 200C. I left it at 200C for about 10 minutes.
The magnet is now very very weak. Guessing it lost 95% of its power. The tail of the light will not pick up an AA battery any more, the magnet is now too weak for the weight.
I put the weak magnet back in the light, it is needed to support the spring.
Very awesome, might need to do this to mine as well. Never use the magnetic function and I’m scared to put other electronics near it.
Mainly worried about my compustar remote starter and my cell phone. Heard it can mess with the internal compass inside phones. It’s probabaly just over caution, but if I can be without a magnet I’ll always go without one.
Didn’t need another one of these but with a Prime day deal of $25.97 plus a $10.00 credit I could only use on Prime day I picked one up for $17.38 after tax - too good to pass up.
After almost a year of daily carry, I can say that for me, the two most annoying things about this particular light are:
1) Inductor noise (high-pitched humming)on Low mode (I can definitely hear it, specially at night time when background noise is less)
2) From observation, all of my T10T v2 lights turn off completely upon reaching 3.0V (14500) or 1.1V (NiMH). I use mostly low and medium modes, and for both there is no step down that happens when battery voltage dips. The lights just die while I am working.
Still carrying one daily though, along with a backup light and cell.
someone suggested that the Sofirn SP10 Pro driver might be able to be used in a T10T… I think that would be great, gets rid of PWM, adds battery management… etc